Featured You are Worrying about the Wrong EV Battery

I'm not aware of any vehicle on the market other than cybertruck that has anything other than 12v these days. If you switch to 48v, you literally have to design every single electrical part you put in the car. For that reason alone they'll avoid it.

 

duplicate, please delete

 

We have one car that doesn't have a spare, & one that does.

You drive in an area with no cell service - on a road where cars only travel thru once per hour? & then have a flat?
Not good
.

 

Since this thread is about batteries, which of your vehicles has a spare battery. In other words, it would still function without it?
Enquiring minda want to know...

 

I have 4 vehicles with license plates.
All four CAN FUNCION without a spare tyre OR a spare battery.

Zero of the four do so.


MY mileage.
Your obviously, may vary.

 

I guess a jump pack can be classed as a spare battery...

 

I do not know how else one would classify a 'jump pack' - although I have also used them to charge phones and my company PC.
I s'pose you could use one as a spare flashlight as well although I always carry one of those as well.

 

I view a jump pack as CONTAINING a battery, but not itself classed as a battery. I somehow suspect @hill referenced tires in a battery thread but I wanted them to clarify..

 

Our pickup has dual batteries as well as dual alternators. Redundancy is good.

Our plug-in hybrid only needs 18 amps of 12v to boot up its systems. Don't know if that's typical for all plugin manufacturers across the board
.

 

48V hybrids do have a 12V to 48V converter. Unlike a full hybrid, a traction battery voltage is low enough to not kill; no need for relays to disconnect the battery on shut down. So why keep the 12V battery?

 

2 batteries has a different meaning for non hybrid owners.
I had an out liner 12 volt in a non hybrid that lasted for 14 years. Well the last 2 winters I had to float charge it all winter long, but in year 13 as soon as it warmed to mid 50's at night until approx the same night lows in fall, that 12 volt worked OK without an external charger connected.
If I'd had to have a 12 volt replaced within a year, I'd be unhappy too, like a motorcycle battery left installed all winter. they usually don't recover the second year, but they're not $200 clams or more to replace.

While everyone it thinking about 12volt reliability, I'd suggest they do some quick math about current overall car service cost and expectation for overall vehicle reliability. Doing that might reduce the annoyance level within the overall picture of the current state of service and reliability of that new car.
2cents for the cheap seats.

 

You can say the same for almost any manufactured product. I have replaced 4 kitchen "major" appliances this year because the cost of repair was more than 50% of their purchase cost. And of the 4, 2 of the new ones had to be replaced within the first 3 months.

OTOH, I got a bill today for $0 for a repair/upgrade that took 20 day for my Toyota. Cost the dealer at least 8 labor hours and at least 10 visits/calls from me searching for status which comes out of overhead. Turns out the part from Toyota was defective. The service manager was the most effective communicator I have ever dealt with in 40+years in the customer contact business. I told him so.

 

i'm sure toyota covered that

 

our dodge dakota 12 volt lasted almost 20 years, and i hardly ever drove it. probably zero drain on the battery when off, or close to it.

 

Hummm, next time an EV or skeptic claims the batteries don't last, agree with them. Let them know you had yours replaced and for how much. <grins>

Bob Wilson