Caliper banjo bolt torque spec and stripping issues

You are using copper washers or copper colored washers in between the banjo I hope I don't even use a torque wrench for that I can't even imagine I just pull it tight and the brake fluid stops leaking and I wipe it and I look and then I check it with my hand again to make sure it's tight but nothing crazy and that's the end The washers are what do the ceiling not the torque necessarily and I can't imagine how any of that would come loose less something's pulling on the hose because they're not the right length because they've been changed and not routed correctly or what have you. I've never had a problem with aftermarket calipers and banjo bolts or any of that so far I make sure the washers are in place and then I make sure the land on the new caliper where the washer's going to squeeze up is clean sometimes coated calipers and all this kind of nonsense there can be crap on that land so you can take a rolock pad on your air grinder and clean that off silver whatever and then see if you seal up then I'm not really trying to torque them 24 sounds about right for the diameter and all of that in the hollow and all that business and no there should be no breaking so maybe you need to check the threads in the calipers That's a pretty standard size tap so you can just put it run it in by hand and see if there's something some kind of a problem maybe hitting a burr I don't know.

 

Good heavens, that triggers my "isn't that excessive?" instinct for a bolt of its size.

The only repair manual I have handy at the moment is a gen 1, and that one does say 22 ft lb—and gen 1 had cast-iron calipers, where yours are aluminum, which might deserve a little more mercy.

 

And use the original gold bolt and washers notice the cheap silver bolt supplied . Use the Toyoda original bolt n washers. Clear land for wSher on new caliper .

 

If I'm looking at the correct bolt, it does say 33 Nm or 24 ft*lbf, which does seem a lot for that tiny bolt. I have attached the front brake components diagram.


However, common sense must prevail. If you feel the thread going you've got to stop and think why. Is your torque wrench calibrated correctly? Are the materials OEM or AM? Are you correctly holding at the handhold when applying force? Could there be any other reason?

Personally, I would just use a standard open-end or box wrench (what is that? A 10 mm head?) and snug it up tight by feel, but I know what tight feels like.

 

Yeah I never used a torque wrench or an extension arm to add torque or any of that to any of these and I've done millions of brake jobs with these banjo bolts and I know when I use the remanufactured caliper even if the caliper works out is okay that silver bolt that's coming with the caliper I take it out and I screw the Toyota bolt and the two washers that match the banjo that have been on the car for however long right back on and tighten it with the box end of my snap-on wrench It's like a touch and a half a turn That's way more torque or what have you then that is ever going to need It's also got a fixture on the banjo on a lot of calipers where it can't move side to side where you're thinking you can slip between the washers and start the loosening process no sir not happening I'm not disagreeing with the torque spec I'm just saying park it all you want touch and half a turn will squeeze those washers and you'll never have a leak there Will it come loose just sitting there boy I would certainly hope not but I don't use the replacement hardware that comes with some of these things like that bolt the Toyota bolt is a much better quality bolt the threads the hole all of it

 

I mean, the banjo bolt is responsible for 2000 psi brake fluid not leaking out there, no doubt why Toyota specified something more than 'snug'.

Re-reading this, I wasn't sure if you meant the threads are stripping off of the bolt, or stripping out of the hole in the caliper.

If it's the bolt, Tom may be onto something: don't use their bolt.

If it's the caliper, maybe they're making their calipers out of cheese. Or they might even have started out as original Toyota calipers and been through the core-return/rebuild routine one time too many. Threads in aluminum can eventually fatigue after being torqued enough times even just to the specified torque.

 

The remanufactured caliper seems like a factor.

 

I saw that, but then on re-reading I also saw the OP had said "strips out the banjo bolt threads", so I wasn't sure if the threads being stripped were the ones tapped into the reman-supplied caliper or the ones cut on the reman-supplied bolt. Maybe the OP will clarify.

 

Nope, the spec is 24 ft-lb which is typical for that style of banjo bolt.

It's just that those remans are crap. Some brands take the bare casting and shot blast everything. That will erode delicate things like bolt hole threads. Good places will use plugs to preserve the threads and the banjo sealing face.

In general I hate replacing calipers because of this type of nonsense. Maybe it works... or not.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Yeah they all used to come from the manufacturer or remanufacture with all the holes plugged and that kind of thing the last few years that's all ended apparently.

 

^ This. Your original caliper (assuming it is still original), with maybe a new rubber kit from Toyota if it needs one, could be the best caliper for your car.

 

That's really wild I have power stop coated x drilled dimpled slotted rotors and caliper set on the persona . All bolted right up nada Amazon purchase rotors still no rust 4 yrs in even though the cars barely moved he he.

 

Wish it were so. Typically I have a seized or damaged piston, broken bleeder screw, or something else "unfriendly".
I have done a bench build a couple times, but that's the exception.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Yes, when you're working on the clock and the customer is paying there's an incentive for faster solutions.

On my own car, I'm inclined to spend the time, after having some experiences with remans where I really saw the quality gulf between the Toyota original and the remans.

But part of my MO is I also inspect the brakes with every tire rotation, so it's difficult for anything to get irreparably bad before I notice.