P2102: Throttle Actuator A Control Motor Circuit Low

Nope when I swapped out my 2ZZ engine which is what you're dealing with in your car to a Japanese model engine here in America like call it a JDM spec engine. The throttle body that came on that engine and the coils were bad I took the throttle body off the engine that was removed because it rattled itself to death and put that throttle body on the JDM spec engine fired right up no problems along with the coils that I had just bought that were on my engine that shook itself to death The coils even the spark plugs off that engine which were three days old and the water pump which was about a week old all went to the JDM engine fired right up on the first try there was no calibrating anything and I do have Toyota software from the Toyota dealership right here at my house I had it for quite some time there's no recalibrating or any relearning or matching the throttle body serial number to the car's computer or any of that nonsense Make sure it's clean bolted on but the stuff back on and get in the car and ready it and step on the gas.

 

For what it's worth, a gen 3 Prius has a 2ZR engine.

2ZR

2ZR

2ZR

2ZR

There isn't any Prius that uses the 2ZZ engine, unless Tom has some Frankenprius that he put one into.

There are two things weird about the trouble code in the OP.

First, the repair manual (at least the cribbed 2010 one I'm looking in) doesn't mention P2101.

Sometimes Toyota will teach the ECUs new codes in later years of a generation, and they'll show up in later repair manuals, so you could check the latest 2012 repair manual online to be sure:

Toyota Service Information and Where To Find It | PriusChat

Second, the fortune cookie "Throttle Actuator 'A' Motor Control Circuit Low" doesn't go with P2101. That fortune cookie goes with P2102.

The P2 range of codes is SAE standardized, so no room for Toyota to have some private meaning for a P2 code.



Also, the P2102 "Throttle Actuator 'A' Motor Control Circuit Low" code is in the 2010 repair manual, with the details of what the code means and how to troubleshoot it.

So, are you positive you didn't mean to type P2102 ?

If it's P2102, the detection condition is that the ECM isn't measuring half an amp or more of current through the throttle motor, even when feeding it an 80% duty cycle or higher. So something is either open-circuited or has too much electrical resistance in the throttle motor circuit. Could be the motor itself but could also be a connector or the wiring. That should probably give you a start on how to troubleshoot it, or if you want more guidance there are seven pages of troubleshooting tips in the repair manual.

Yes, the P0A0F is a downstream result. There are two computers involved. The Power Management Control ECU (which is like the orchestra conductor for the car) said to the Engine Control Module, "hey ECM, I'll crank the engine now if you'll start it", and the ECM tries and can't work the throttle, and logs the P210whatever code. So then the power management control ECU sets P0A0F, which basically means "I don't know what the story is, but I asked the ECM to start the engine and that didn't happen."

 

He just plop the throttle body right on there tighten it up push the cooling hoses up start the car up Wait a few minutes The little bit of coolant you lost You probably won't even see it on the jug but if you do just put it back to the full mark it's got an electric pumps a little move the fluid around if it's there to move but you won't have to do much of anything once you drop the throttle body on there and plug it up if you're 12 volt and everything else is like it's supposed to be at Car start right up

 

Have you got any kind of meter with an ohms setting? They're really cheap at Menards or Home Depot or such.

 

You can use the Report button under your post and ask the mod to change P2101 to P2102 in the title.

The code wasn't about the position sensor resistance anyway. It was about resistance of the motor circuit.

 

No parts canon here just a regular throttle body swap which is real common some of these motor goes bad and it's dead I already have the part here laying around so it's nothing for me to change it and doesn't cost me a dime and the car is running pretty good wind situation no scope needed no guessing and no testing Just swap the part and go oh well.