I actually have 2 gen 2 Prii that appear to be showing the same symptoms and codes, P0A0F and P3193. Confirmed earlier that it wasn’t out of gas, just reporting this code when the engine didn’t start after cranking. I’d like to diagnose the problem rather than throw parts at it, but I’m not really sure where to start. Is there a troubleshooting flowchart or guide in the right direction?
What does the fuel gauge show? In theory, P3193 should only set if: the engine doesn't run (or produces very low torque) AND the fuel gauge reads "empty" (flashing 1 bar). One of my first "no start" go to's is to clean the throttle body bore and MAF sensor. Be careful to not attempt too many engine cranks otherwise you will discharge the HV battery. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
Thanks for the response. I have a grid charger, so I’m keeping the traction battery charged up every night. I bought a can of maf sensor cleaner and I’ll start with that. I have dr Prius, torque app, and a pretty good bii-directional code reader, so I can get live data and freeze frame info. Nothing appears out of place, but I might not really know what to look for. Any advice would be appreciated.
I don't think the grid charger is intended to be used in this way. The battery is not suppose to have a constant full charge every day
You should need to be charging the hybrid battery every night for a couple of tempted cranks but yeah I have a great charger too I'd like hooked it up to a hybrid battery like twice and its whole life It just sits here but that's interesting anyway yeah you just got to treat this as a no start condition of a regular iced car kind of and you need to ascertain you really do have fuel everybody says they have fuel and at the end of this hole thing here they come back and post yeah I was really out of gas
It sounds to me like one of your Gen 2 Priui is the same car that you started a new thread for on January 5th of this year, https://priuschat.com/index.php?posts/3504846 There is a lot of good information in the earlier thread. See my post #9 in that thread. Just out of curiosity, did you fix the combination meter on the car like you said you were going to do? Clean the throttle body as recommended in post #2 in this thread.
Reading both threads on this car makes it likely the daughter's car has had many hands in it and could have more than one issue relative to the no start / poor start. It is possible the engine is starting but is running so bad the ecu says I can't sync it with my transaxle so I am waiting for an engine repair. Sometimes it can a stupid simple problem like a pcv or other hose allowing unmeasured air into the engine. Or it could be a single wire pulled out of a harness requiring a scope to logically diagnose. This recent gen3 video may not be exactly your situation but does demonstrate how to test for a no start. Disregard the blown head gasket. That is not the no start. Beached whale Prius stalls after 20 seconds
Thanks all for the responses. 1. I bought the grid charger from the company that reconditioned the batteries, and am following their instructions for charge rate (300 ma) and final voltage (225 VDC). The battery had dropped to 184 VDC and wouldn’t turn over the engine before I charged it. 2. Both cars show empty fuel gauge, but have been filled to overflow with a gas can. I’ve been convinced that this condition will be resolved when I get the engines to stay running. 3. Prius #1 is indeed the one referenced in my previous posts, and I have repaired the cluster with a new capacitor, but it still won’t start, although the cluster now works. Maybe I should have posted to the same thread, but I’m now focusing on Prius #2, which was running well until recently. I bought a can of CRC maf cleaner and CRC throttle body cleaner and I’ll try that next. I will post results to this thread. I watched the PHAD video when it was first posted to YouTube, but I’ll watch it again to see what info I can gain.
I have two cars. #2 Prius, the one I’m focusing on now, has been running for almost 3 years, no one has touched it besides me since the day I bought it. I replaced both batteries and the inverter coolant pump when I bought it, and it’s been running since then. Maf and throttle body clean didn’t help any, so I think I’ll change the spark plugs next. Wish there was a better way to systematically diagnose the issues. My son’s celica gives me cylinder misfire codes if I have ignition issues, guess I was hoping for something like that to direct my efforts.
There is and it was demonstrated in the video above. He has access to the documentation (primarily the wiring most of the time), he has the tools (which are more than wrenches) and he has the basics of no start diagnosis in his head and in that video.
Does the engine spin and what is the compression values? What does the MAF sensor read while spinning? Is the exhaust system restricted? Does the fuel pump run, and what is the pressure? Do the ignition coils fire and produce spark? Are the injectors triggered, and do they spray fuel? Methodical questions, but you need some specialized tools and skills to answer them Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
Thanks for the responses. I guess I’ve gotten accustomed to the odbii diagnostic codes typically provided by modern cars. For example, my son’s 2002 celica tells me “misfire cylinder #3” , or “crankshaft/camshaft correlation fault”, but instead the Prius tells me “engine failed to start”, or worse yet “ out of fuel” when it really isn’t. So I guess I need to go back to the old school diagnostic processes like we used back in the day to figure this out. Fortunately, I have a lot more resources available to me today than when I was working on my first car, a 1965 Triumph Spitfire, back in the late 1970’s. I have a pico-scope with pressure transducers, fuel pressure meter, compression tester, etc. and an AutoZone 6 blocks away that will rent most anything else that I might need. I’ve even still got a timing light, if I can figure out something to use it on. I’ll try to start with the most likely failure points, I’ll pull the plugs and check for spark, test fuel pressure and compression if I get that far. A few answers to mr_mann_guy questions: Yes, engine spins, haven’t yet pulled plugs and checked compression, maf sensor reads a reasonable value, I’ll check and record again today. Haven’t yet checked fuel pressure, spark plugs firing, or injector pulses, I’ll crank up the pico scope today, if I get that far. Any additional advice would be awesome.
Your Prius has exactly those codes too (P0303 and P0016, respectively), and will give you either one when that is the problem detected. When the engine just produces less than a fifth of its expected power but without the ECM being able to pinpoint why, it gives you the P3190 code. If that happens while trying to start the engine, the code changes to P3191. If that happens while the fuel level ok/low signal from the combination meter to the ECM is not coming through as 'ok', the code changes to P3193. Yes, most trouble codes only give you part of a picture (even a P0303 on your son's Celica will not tell you why cylinder 3 is misfiring), and the human's diagnostic chops will be needed to complete the picture. Having a diagnostic mindset starts right at the outset. Part of it is not saying "it's telling me I'm out of fuel? Bah! I know I'm not", but instead saying "it's telling me the combination meter fuel ok/low signal to the ECM is not coming through as 'ok'. If it's telling me that, I can bet electrons and cold hard silicon that signal is not coming through as 'ok'. Now why might that be?".
Prius #2 is running again!!! I did three things to finally get it going: 1. Replaced the 12 V battery. Old battery read 4.8 V even after charge. 2. Replaced spark plugs. Old plus were Denzo iridium and had a very wide gap compared to the new NGK’s 3. Filled it up with gas. Daughter said the gauge wasn’t reading right, but she knew it was full. I decided to assume nothing, and start from ground zero. I put in about a gallon of lawn mower gas, then put in a full 5 gallon can. This got it up to half on the gauge, so I drove it to a convenience store and put in 4.2 gallons more. Yep, it was definitely out. Red triangle blinked on once, then didn’t see it again. I’m going to drive it a bit before returning it..
Prius #2 seems to be running fine, but the red triangle flashes up very briefly every half hour or so without setting any codes. I don’t feel confident to give it back to my daughter if this is happening. Anyone know what could be causing this? Is it a traction battery on the way out? Should I run the Dr Prius battery health test to figure it out? Should I just ignore it until gets bad enough to set a code?
On the car which does not start..did you spray some starter fluid to see if the engine will attempt to start. Spray it between the throttle body and the MAF and see if you get some action...
Loss of oil pressure can cause the MWL (master warning light) to flash, so check the oil. I wouldn't expect low oil in this case, due to the infrequency of it. The MWL also flashes if there are any misfires detected. So, I would look at the EMU misfire count PIDs and see if there is anything showing up there.
Thanks for your thoughtful reply. Low oil level is a distinct possibility. The car uses some oil, and my daughter recently slid on ice into another car, resulting in the hood being unable to be opened. I fixed that (kinda), and now can open the hood, but I didn’t check it when I had the chance. I’ll untie the rope holding the hood down and check it tomorrow.