Dealership oil Change

Idea: I know the US dealerships offer 2 free oil changes, but do you want the potential aggravation? Is it worth it? Just carry on with DIY, and “life is good”?

(need a The Car Care Nut meme for this expression).

 

The 0w16 is pretty widely available now, but I think the 0w8 may be an issue.

 

5qt jugs(Mobil 1 AFE) are sitting on the shelf of my Walmart in my town of <10k in North Dakota, so it can't be all that hard to find.

And the 0W-8 is the same price as the 0W-16 and 0W-20 Mobile 1 AFE. ($27.97 for 5qt)

 

I found a qt of 0w-8 mobile 1 at wallies a few months ago $8 while it was still hard to find.
Thank for the heads up on the 5 qt jug.
I only got the qt to compare to both 0w - 16 and 20
Now all I need to know is what I should be looking for besides it's viscosity.

 

Evidence of service would be important for a warranty claim, so I'll take it.

Also, I tried a complete oil change myself at 2,000 miles and could not get the filter free. I'll have them change it at 10,000 and give it a try again at 15k.

 

At 2k miles, if I were even thinking about changing the oil, I'd just drain and refill without replacing the oil filter if I couldn't get it off.
I'll refrain from giving advice on how to remove stubborn spin ons. specially at 2k miles .....

 

I had similar concerns with our 10.

Try a SOLID oil filter socket, plus an extra-long ratchet wrench (or breaker bar) Torque spec is probably 13 ft/lbs (if per previous gens with spin-on), so can't to be too difficult. Coming from the factory it should not be overtorque, but who knows.

For oil filter socket, I'd highly recommend Honda's. It's a perfect fit, you can get from any Honda dealership parts department, though they may have to order it in. I see it on Amazon too, listed as:

Honda Genuine Parts - Wrench (64) (07AAA-PLCA100)

 

That's what I did.

I did. The corners of the filter bent. I draped it in paper for a tighter fit, but it still would not hold.

I have a pretty solid history of breaking things I'm trying to fix, so I thought I'd take a holiday from being me and not break an engine part. If it comes back overly tight from dealer service at least I'll know who to blame.

 

Maybe your oil filter socket? Thin material, and/or a little too loose? Or factory is getting sloppy.

You can't go wrong with that Honda filter socket: it's a snug fit, and heavy stamped steel. I've had one since ~1990.

 

For the spin-on filters, a strap-wrench or chain-wrench will also work. A couple of times I had to resort to punching a hole through it, with a large screw driver, when I couldn't find my strap wrench.
If I did the oil change previously; I normally just reach up and unscrew it. The filters only gets sticky when they're over-tightened and/or the o-ring or sealing gasket wasn't lubed before install. My oil filters never leak, even with thin 0w16 oil; just from hand tightening - no tools. You can probably use some large channel lock pliers with these small filters.

 

Spin-on oil filters should never be installed with a wrench! They should always be only hand-tightened. Just make sure that you have approximately achieved the required number of turns (typically 3/4) written on the oil filter while applying a firm pressure with your hand, preferably using a paper towel or glove. That is what happens if you install them with a wrench—you can’t remove them—as they always self-tighten over time.

I understand that at the factory, hand-tightening them is not practical, as they don’t want the workers to have overuse injuries in their hands and wrists.

As for removal, this will definitely work. You can also get it at any auto-parts store. Don’t use it for installation though, as for the reason I explained above as well as it will impress teeth marks and/or cause deformation on the oil-filter case.

WORKPRO 12” adjustable oil-filter pliers on Amazon

 

If you still cannot get the filter off, use a large channel lock wrench that will take it off, but it may deform it first before it gives.

 

If you mark the (spin-on) oil filter when it first makes contact, say at 6 o’clock, then torque to 13 ft/lb, you’ll find the mark has rotated to approximately 3 o’clock.

both 13 ft/lb and 3/4 turn are specd in the Repair Manuals.

I’ve done close to 30 oil-and-filter changes now, on our ‘10, using torque wrench method, and once did the aforementioned mark check. Never a problem with subsequent removal.

 

It is still wrong. LOL

3/4 turns is an approximate value. Chances are that you can apply 1 ft–lb and it will be 3.02/4 turns and 100 ft–lb and it wil still be 3.05/4 turns. But the latter will be overtightened. That's why it is better to always hand-tighten it. Spin-on oil filters always self-tighten during use; so, there is no point in using a wrench unless you have a hand injury etc.

 

Yeah…

 

13 ft–lb is not that much though. I could probably apply that with my hand. LOL If you insist on using a wrench, I would go down to 10 ft–lb. Even that should be more than enough.

Here is what Google says.

 

How did you verify the 76 ft/lbs torque on the lug nuts? If you just set a torque wrench to 7 ft/lbs and tightened until it clicked, or the indicator showed 76 ft/lbs with the lug nut moving, all you verified was that the lug nut was torqued to a minimum of 76 ft/lbs. It could be anything over 76.