New plugs, ATF, & throttle body cleaning

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by xw20_driver, Feb 25, 2025.

  1. xw20_driver

    xw20_driver New Member

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    2007 Prius
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    II
    I'm a new owner to a 2007 Prius Touring (Driftwood Pearl) with 195K miles on the odometer. It has full leather interior, GPS, smart key, 6 disc in dash CD changer, foglights, 16" alloys. I believe it was the top Touring package #6. I was able to retrieve some original dealer maintenance history for its first 7 years through 72K miles. From 2014 through 2024, its maintenance history is undocumented. In that span of 10 years, it appeared to have gained roughly 123K miles. 12K miles a year is not terrible, but also not a pampered life. I'm likely the 4th owner.

    At some point in its life, someone swapped out the original HID with a set of Eagle Eyes standard headlamps. The lens are clean and clear.

    Today I tackled the transaxle fluid change. I drained out a dark murky thick concoction. I chose to go with Valvoline Hybrid Vehicle ATF in lieu of Genuine Toyota ATF WS. My local Toyota stealer price was $16/qt. The Valvoline HV ATF cost me under $7.50/qt. Perhaps I overpaid for the same Valvoline MaxLife ATF just rebadged for "hybrid vehicle", who knows. When I compared the specs between WS and Valvoline ATFs, they numbers were pretty close, more so than the Aisin WS equivalent fluid. The measured drain out was 3.75QT and I poured in 3.75QT. The drain plug takes a 10mm hex and the fill plug was a 24mm socket. 29ft-lb torque for both with two new crush washers.

    I also removed the air filter box and decided to clean the throttle body. I should have captured before photos of the TB. It was brown, dirty, and mucky. Deep in the intake was more greasy brown drippings. I stuffed a rag down the throttle body and went to work with a brush and some carb cleaner spray. I let the cleaner sit in the intake runners and took a lunch break. Afterwards, I stuffed a rag down and sopped it all up, got it as clean as I could without removing the entire TB.

    The last thing I did was to swap out the spark plugs. Out came these Denso Iridium SK16R11s. Not sure how long they've been in this car. But I figure being close to 200K, it deserves a new set of spark plugs. I run NGKs in all of the Hondas I've ever owned so I went with a set of NGK Laser Iridium. The service manual called for NGK IFR5A11 but RockAuto listed NGK 4996 IFR5T11 and came pre-gapped to 0.044". Torqued the new plugs to 13ft-lbs no anti-seize.

    The Prius to-do list to be continued:
    - Rear drum shoes
    - Brake fluid bleed
    - Engine coolant replacement
    - Hatch lift struts
    - Add a second smart key fob

    PriusTouringII.JPG
    tb-closed.jpg tb-open1.jpg
    Densoplugs.jpg plugs1-2.jpg plugs3-4.jpg denso-coil-packs.jpg
     
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  2. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    Welcome to the forum.
     
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  3. MAX2

    MAX2 Active Member

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    Have you changed the engine oil? How much was drained and what color is it?

    The Gen2 model is notable for its oil consumption during long-term operation. This is worth monitoring.
     
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  4. xw20_driver

    xw20_driver New Member

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    II
    Unsure of the prior oil change. The oil level is at the top mark and still translucent and not black. I've driven around 200 miles since purchase and the oil level has stayed put. I ran half a bottle of Berryman B-12 cleaner through a full tank already. There was a date sharpied onto the cheap FVP jobber filter with a windshield service sticker. The filler hole appeared dark and similar to high mileage old Corolla that I have.

    I have a replacement PCV valve in hand and will likely do an oil change next time and swap out the PCV valve.

    Here's a pic of the engine bay. It's a west coast car so probably hasn't ever seen any road salt.
    PriusTouring2.jpg
     
  5. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    Check that the parking brake will hold on a steep grade. Ours wouldn't at first, so we took off the drums and it all looked good inside, other than some trapped brake dust. Cleaned that dust off, closed it back up, did the adjustment procedure, which is cycles of: set parking brake, release parking brake, step on brake, release brake all while in Park. That adjustment didn't fully tighten up the parking brake on ours until the extra dust was cleaned off.

    When the car is cold remove the "tray" in the engine compartment then remove the radiator cap. Hold the neck while turning the cap, the radiator neck is not robust. There should be coolant pretty much right to the top. If there isn't fill it to there. Put a Sharpie mark on the midpoint of the overflow tank and fill to that mark. This should be done on the flattest spot you can find, any tilt and the levels will change some. Reassemble. After that you can check for coolant loss fairly accurately by just looking at the coolant vs. the Sharpie mark when the car is cold and on the same level surface. The tray doesn't need to come off, the spot is visible while standing next to the passenger side front wheel (hood up, of course). I don't actually have a good level surface available, so just put the car in the same spot on the driveway for comparisons. It is a good idea to check coolant levels periodically, but until you make a mark yourself, there isn't any reference point on the overflow tank for comparison.
     
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