Exhaust with white smoke, looking for fire

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by AmericanIdiot, Feb 18, 2025 at 1:02 AM.

  1. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    No please don't put any of that in the Prius even some of this latest stuff in the blue bottle with green on the label and all that but they've come to my shop with that stuff. And well personally I don't have any part of it If you want to pour that in your stuff that's your business and you've got possible radiator clogging that stuff has to flow all through your cooling system all the pumps on our cars and all that business you're going to have the sealant crap floating around I don't think so on your stuff yet that's your business but over here no we're not going to be having any of that You just making a lot more nonsense for me to clean up and I'm charging you for it so you know let's not be doing that That's just for the let's see factor maybe possibly it might yeah forget all that You know might let you get the car into somebody else's hands real quick so it can fail tomorrow or the next day but you know I don't want to be dealing with any of that.
     
  2. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    I have VRP in my car now and it did not cause any sort of smoke. 139K miles (something like that, too lazy to walk out to the car to check.) I don't believe that anybody claims that it cleans the top of the piston. Oil isn't really supposed to be in there, and if it is it isn't going to have much time to work before it is incinerated.

    The tesslong front and side borescope for around $40 on Amazon gives very nice pictures. But you need a phone with a USB C connector, because it does not work well through a USB-C to USB-micro adapter. It looks forward or to the side, but not backwards.

    DO NOT USE A HEAD GASKET SEALER. Well, maybe OK if you intend to junk the car very soon because it is developing some other intractable problem. The sealers will gunk up everything in the cooling system, won't hold forever, and will eventually come back to bite you in the butt.

    Try testing the pressure in the cylinders. It is harder to screw up that connection, since it screws in. If you pressurize the one you think is a problem and the fluid rises or bubbles in the radiator neck, then there is definitely a path between the two. Probably a blown head gasket. Possibly something worse.

    Did the car ever overheat or get low on coolant or oil? Failed head gaskets are not very common in this vehicle. Unlike the 3rd generation, where they are a very common problem.
     
  3. MAX2

    MAX2 Active Member

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    So you changed the oil and it started smoking? But that could be the reason.
     
  4. AmericanIdiot

    AmericanIdiot Junior Member

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    Isn't the claim of VR&P is that it will clean up the sludge of the oil control rings so that they move freely and scrape down the oil out of the cylinder? So if the oil control rings aren't functioning correctly, wouldn't there be oil in the combustion chamber (along with oil from the PCV)?

    So the head gasket sealer is really a last resort thing. If the car isn't worth fixing because of other issues, and I'm just going to roll the dice until it dies situation. It's definitely not my preferred solution, but if it doesn't make financial sense to repair the head gasket then spending $25 for something that might extend the life of the car a year isn't too bad.

    Compression test with looking at the radiator makes a lot of sense. I'll try that.

    The car has never overheated or run low on coolant or oil. I was also surprised about the potential of a failed head gasket, but there are a few other people on here who have asked about it. I am aware of the 3rd gen problems, so that's why I was alarmed when I saw the white smoke.

    Not that I know of. I noticed the smoke a few days ago. It could have been there for longer, but I didn't notice it. I don't think it's related to the oil change directly, but more that Valvoline Restore & Protect claims to remove carbon deposits and so that in combination with the blown head gasket could explain the clean spot on the #4 piston head. That is just a guess though.
     
  5. MAX2

    MAX2 Active Member

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    What condition is the oil in now?
    Сolor?
    Viscosity?

    If the oil really started to wash out slag from the engine, then this slag will settle in the crankcase at the bottom of the cover.

    The oil pump, catching all the muck from the bottom, will quickly become clogged.

    Without lubrication, the engine will come to an end.
     
  6. AmericanIdiot

    AmericanIdiot Junior Member

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    Oil condition looks normal -- specifically no milkshake. It's pretty clean on the dipstick and looks fresh. I'm guessing the gasket has only failed between the cylinder and the cooling system. No contamination of the oil system as far as I can tell. Obviously the situation can change if the gasket keeps deteriorating.
     
  7. AmericanIdiot

    AmericanIdiot Junior Member

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    So I took it into an independent hybrid shop that mostly does Toyotas. I've used them before and trust them to do good work.

    They re-did the exhaust gas leak detection and it continued to be negative.

    They performed a leakdown test and the #2 and #4 cylinders were holding little pressure. The left dial was at 50psi and the right dial was at about 10psi for both cylinders. The best guess is that it's burning oil since the piston rings aren't doing their job. They said I could fix it or continue driving it with the concern of the burning oil will eventually foul the catalytic converter (original 2007).

    I have Hybrid Assistant and have it set to auto start whenever I'm in my car. I found out that it records every trip I've made and I was able to see the coolant temperature for many trips and my temps are always in the 180s
     
  8. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    Is that not also consistent with a wide variety of valve problems? Possibly even timing belt/camshaft issues if they prevent both valves from being closed at the same time. I'm sure they put the piston at TDC, and equally sure they didn't scope inside to verify that the valves were actually in the correct positions. There are ways to tell where the air is going. For instance, listening to it. If the intake valve isn't closed when it should be, and a problem cylinder is kept pressurized, at least some of that air should come back out the throttle body. And so forth.

    Is the right dial really psi or is it % loss? Leaking 10% is normal. Leaking 40 psi to get to 10 psi would be terrible, that's an 80% loss. A car would run like crap with a compression issue like that, but that was not the case in the original post, just a little smoke.

    What did the dials read on 1 and 3?
     
  9. AmericanIdiot

    AmericanIdiot Junior Member

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    I think you're right and I'll go back and ask them to perform it again. Here are the gauges from the videos they sent me in order from cylinder 1 through 4.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  10. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    Maddox? That's a Harbor Freight tool.

    Cylinder Leak-Down Tester

    It is a little surprising to find it in use at an actual mechanic's shop.