Check out this thread Want to install an Engine Block Heater yourself? This guide may help. | PriusChat
I’ve got my previous one (wiring shorted) around somewhere; I’ll try to find and measure with a caliper, in the morning.
There is another option for warming up the engine - products from DEFA. Find your engine heater • DEFA Installation Guide http://old.defa.com/vfp/eh/413840.pdf http://old.defa.com/vfp/eh/420866.pdf
From Chat GPT In a gasoline hybrid car, both oil temperature and engine temperature play important roles in fuel consumption, but engine temperature is typically more critical for fuel efficiency. Here's why: Engine Temperature: The engine needs to reach an optimal operating temperature (usually around 190-220°F or 88-104°C) for fuel to burn efficiently. When the engine is cold, it runs less efficiently, consuming more fuel because it uses a richer air-fuel mixture to prevent engine damage. A fully warmed-up engine operates more efficiently, reducing fuel consumption and emissions. Oil Temperature: While oil temperature is also important, it mainly affects engine lubrication and reduces internal friction. If the oil is too cold, it may not flow well, leading to increased friction and wear, which can impact fuel efficiency in the long term. Oil temperature needs to be at a certain level to provide effective lubrication, but it’s generally not as critical as engine temperature for immediate fuel efficiency. In a hybrid system, the electric motor can assist during colder engine temperatures, which can help reduce the fuel consumption penalty until the engine warms up. However, once the engine reaches its optimal operating temperature, it can deliver maximum fuel efficiency, making engine temperature the more crucial factor for day-to-day fuel consumption.
Apologies, I've tidied up and put it away somewhere. Will keep an eye out. Here's the part number for the more recent one I got, purchased/installed in Oct 2019, obtained from local dealership for $90 CDN: PU140-00905 Note: it is currently subject to recall by Toyota Canada, apparently due to possibility of wiring shorting out. I've contacted local dealership service manager about this. That was Jan 4th of this year, and apart from a little back-and-forth, no resolution. He's been in touch with Toyota Canada... I've heard one thing they'll do for you is cut off it's plug... Anyways, the extension cord I'm using with mine plugs into a wall-mounted outlet box with a breaker. It's effective, kicked-off one time when I cut my hedge trimmer cord.
Thank you Mendel and Max 2. Did the wire insulation melt near the block heater or near the plug? Melting is usually caused by undersized copper wires, copper is very expensive and they try to save on it. Today I laid down some cardboard boxes on the floor, I removed the underbody cover and measured the depth of the hole, it' s 70mm I couldn't stick a caliper in there to measure the diameter, but I think all block heaters for jap cars use a standardized size, so 18mm, I attached a screenshot of a Mitsubishi forum . Further I found and ordered standard heating cartridges of same size and rated 380 W 230v, they are sold in pairs, 22 euro including shipping. https://a.aliexpress.com/_Exuv8OY The heater is 85mm long, the first 10 mm are just contacts sinked in the ceramic insulation and protected by metal case I'll make a clip with a metal strip and a small hose clamp to fix it to the cylindrical cartridge and click it in to the right position on the engine, similarly to the genuine one, I'll apply some termal compound in between. I also ordered a few waterproof plugs and sockets for the wiring . Looking forward to delivery and assembly. https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIsVRV6
The Toyota heater element has a clip at the top, that secures it. I would persevere for a while, trying to find the official one. The electrical short was right where the wire connects to the heater element. I'm thinking it might have been pulled too taut during install. Could be due to the heat of the element as well. Maybe significant: there was no evidence of heat transfer grease on the failed one, not even staining from grease long baked off over the years. Could be the dealership installers never put on the grease...
ok, I think it wasn't the copper wire thickness the issue here, but the element heat. If the wires were insulated with fiberglass cloth or silicon instead of standard pvc maybe the short was avoided. I see DEFA uses a different design where a 10 cm rod between heater and wire dissipates part of the heat and keeps the wires away from each other. I think the missing heat transfer grease is indeed responsible for making the wire's life even worse. I'll see if I can find some extra fiberglass sleeves for mine like this
The whole key to burning less fuel to heat your engine is to use an energy source other than gasoline. If you use gasoline to make electricity while you are driving in order to charge a battery so you can use the electricity later to heat the engine on the next cycle, you're really just adding weight and complexity while still getting 100% of that heat from gasoline. And you are wasting extra gasoline doing so, to cover the charging inefficiency of the HV battery. If you want to reduce the use of gasoline to heat your engine, you need to get that heat energy from somewhere else altogether. Get a block heater (or a tank heater, they are popular in N. Europe) and plug it into mains power to achieve your pre-heat. All this other stuff is just time-shifting the usage of gasoline.
One spin-off benefit of the block heater, which came in handy for me today: wanting to wash our ‘10 in the driveway, without starting it up for the move from garage, I plugged in about 90 minutes early. Then when starting, I was able to have EV mode.