So I have this junker I acquired from my friend and boy has it been some work. I when I got the car it had this annoying ringing sound. Managed to find out it need a new ABS Brake actuator which helped solve the ringing, yet the emergency brake light still showed on dash. Also VSC, ABS, Tire Pressure, & (!) started on the dash. Weeks later I go on to change the front brake pads and add new brakes fluid. For some reason when we were doing the brake bleeding process no brake fluid ever squirted out of the back left brake line yet for the rest of the car brake fluid bled out as normal. Fast forward to this week, we attempt to change the back left drum brake line and concluded that the whole drum (shoe, piston & caliper) needed replacement. To make matters worse stupid the high pitch ringing came back
Yes I'm guessing you are using a used brake actuator so all of these things you got going on are possible You need to get the rear drum straightened out first A lot of times people do a brake job and mess around back there and get the seals and pistons cockeyed and they leak whatever it is just buy a replacement wheel cylinder and be done with it they're cheap $12 or something seriously That's the only hydraulic piece back there in the back one on each side over 200,000 mi if I'm doing brakes I would just put on new wheel cylinders I could hone them out with a ball hone fit new rubbers and all that but no we'll just take a new one. Once you get that sorted out then you'll bleed the brakes again You are taking the relays out pumping the fronts like a regular car putting the relays back in and going to the right rear first You do realize there's really no pumping needed for the rear your person in the car just needs to keep their foot on the brake when you crack the fitting with the relays in in the back You hear an electric pump come on let that run for one or two seconds and close the line tell your friend to take his foot off the business count to five or something have him apply his foot again you crack the fitting It may take once or twice doing this if you didn't prep your actuator correctly early in installation. . And keep your face out of the way once it starts coming out it's a straight shot and it'll hit you right in the eye
What codes do you have from which ecus (& what scantool are you using?) It could be something like there was a leak for the left rear brake circuit, so the ecu shut off that corner. Then you wouldn't be able to bleed it until the lines are repaired and the code is cleared. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
Please let me modify this statement..... You need to know what you're doing when working on any portion of the Prius brake system. You also need to have a quality scan tool or Techstream so you can perform needed functions and reset alarms.. Personally, I never work on a Gen 2 brake system unless the 12v battery is disconnected and backup power box is disconnected. I also use a vacuum pump to fill all lines prior to restoring power. If the ecu detects a drop in pressure at any branch, it thinks there's a leak and it will disable that branch of the system. Most likely that's why you have no fluid at that corner. Commence tail chasing if you don't know that ahead of time.
