I haven't owned this prius long. I bought it for cheap with known brake issues and missing cat and have tried to replace the actuator with another used one, got the same error (failed to learn linear valve offset).. all along the way the dash and CM worked just fine. After getting another used actuator I turned it on today and no dash activity.. odd. Well I proceeded to install the new actuator and do the Techstream magic and it appeared to work fine! Techstream shows no trouble codes in brake area... however now the issue is the dash. Here's a video. Things to note: in doing IG ON with no READY I do see the check-engine light. Once I switch to READY the CEL goes off and there's basically nothing except for "passenger airbag off". Nothing else will light up either like "A/C AUTO" or rear-defrost or front windshield de-fog, etc. Turn signals do make the arrows on the dash blink... The 12V battery in the back is brand new and I've got a charger on it for doing the brake bleeding, etc. It has plenty of juice. Side-note - I've done the CM capacitor fix at least three times over the years.. this car is different it's not just the CM it's like the entire dashboard.
No it's the part with the transmission gas gauge and miles per hour then it is the CM monitor display sometimes you get a code for it many times you do not so there's always that so if you do not touch the brake and you hit the button once remove your hand now hit the button again all the lights on the dashboard should light up check engine! ABS skid control etc correct?
IG ON (start button twice / no brake) I see CEL. Hold down brake and start button again I believe the car is switching into READY however I do not see anything (even the CEL goes away). The video shows this... I'll try moving the car with driver door open I don't think the triangle of death will even light up. Looking at the schematics it seems nothing with the CM is working: VFD, A/C AUTO, Inlet Air, Rear Def, Front Def, CRUISE, Head#1/Tail#2, Tire Pressure, READY, Slip, ABS, Brake Control, SRS, Master, Maint Req'd, VSC, Smart Key, Driver's Seat Belt, Brake, Door, Beam, Security... but finally Turn LH & Turn RH does work and Malfunction Indicator Lamp I'm not sure yet. I guess it could just be the capacitor on the VFD like always? For some reason I thought the capacitor only affected the VFD.
No on mine wen it starts going wonky it's the CM heads up display affecting all that over they're too having to hold button down for complete shutdown etc . Generally the only thing that will work or flash through this is the check engine light none of the other Amber's and stuff will work when the car is readying when the conditions are right
Copy that.. I've had and fixed this issue twice in the past on other Gen2's but I guess I didn't recall practically everything going dead. I'll roll up my sleeves and get that capacitor upgraded to a fresh 220uF.
If I recall correctly, there are three capacitors and a 5 V power regulator IC that should be replaced. Why not seeing as you really only want to be taking the dash apart and removing the PCB once? The details are contained in the post linked in post #5. Even so, a lot of people seem to get away with just replacing the 110 µF with a 220 µF capacitor. YMMV.
It's 21 pages. Can you narrow down the page #? I've only changed the 100->220 uF cap and it has worked every time.
I recommend you read page 1 and then skip to page 4 and read the posts on that page by Texas Hybrid Batteries.
I've already replaced C3 with a 220uF and have dash reassembled. I'm moving on to repairing the broken clock spring.
It's been a while since I went through that whole thread, but I see that when I did, I also noticed "There seems to be something of an opinion split over whether all of that work is necessary, or just replacing/increasing C3 generally does the trick." The let's-do-more-work approach seems to come from a "I can see three electrolytic capacitors and a regulator IC here so I'll replace everything and that should cover it" mindset, and the do-less-work approach from more of a "C3 is what went bad, fix that" mindset. It stands to reason that if C3 is what goes bad, a lot of people will indeed "seem to get away with" just replacing C3. It's probably also worth figuring in that for anybody who doesn't do SMD board rework every day (and that includes me!), replacing one cap is significantly less work, and less risk of oopsies, than replacing three caps and an IC.
