I changed front calipers now it won’t start?

12volt is fully charged? ABS sensor is not moved or damaged? Dash lights? Error codes?

Also, read up on getting blink codes by jumping two pins together in OBD2 port. This method might solve your problem because it allows you to clear brake codes that may have come up while you were working on bleeding the brakes.

I remember when my caliper was messed up I had to jump those pins to clear codes after the work was done to get the car to work again.

Toyota Techstream on an old windows laptop is the best brake bleeding tool, but you can do it without that if you're careful.

 

This is a generation 3 right 2010 up so it sounds like you've created some kind of problem in the brake hydraulic circuit if not the actuator or one of the two pieces itself which are on their way out much above 100,000 mi in this model it looks like is very common That's what the beeping is it's telling you that there's low pressure in the brake system that's why it's making that noise It doesn't want you to be flogging down the highway and not realize when you go to stop it's going to take a lot longer or something hence the beep so whether you've got a bubble in your hydraulic system of air or the actuator is actually starting to fail and you just helped it along doing this work I'm not sure there should be codes if you are patient enough to deal with blinks and a pen and a paper You can do it that way I'm sure with this beeping going on you're going to have some C codes

 

That sounds like a failed auxiliary battery to me (@PriusCamper mentioned it briefly above).

Either a recent cold snap, or having the door open for a while may have drawn down the auxiliary battery. It could have started off a bit weak, but these are the types of "straws that break the camel's back".

As the car's computers start to boot up, when it gets to the point where the power steering and power brakes pull their initial current draws off of the battery. Suppose the auxiliary battery has been drawn down too much. In that case, the initial draw from these systems pulls the battery voltage down to the point where the computer systems all restart - giving you not much more than a repeated beep. When a Prius gets into that mode it doesn't know whether to or go blind.

Try hooking up a battery maintainer, or a small battery charger to the 12V battery (or the terminal inside the fuse box under the hood).

 

Did you leave the rear deck open? Any of the doors?
Where you playing the radio? Any of those will drain the 12v battery.
How old is the battery? If it’s 5 or more years, it may need replacing.
You could try a 5 amp or less AGM charger for a few hours, that should bring
some life back into it, then try to start the car again. If it starts, you know what
the issue is.
Then charge the battery for at least 8 hours or until the charge shuts off.
Driving it will NOT charge it very well. Unless you drive for 3 or more hours.

 

Also, 2013 and you have changed the brake pads and rotors 5 times?

WTH, do you rally the car? Our 2011 at 144K is still on the OEM brake pads and rotors at all 4 corners with plenty of pad material remaining.

SM-G781V ?

 

Whenever Eric O (of South Main Auto Youtube Channel) starts testing stuff, step one is hook up a battery maintainer. You're putting the carr in Accessory or On (everything but engine running/charging, in Toyota parlance), having doors open, pretty much mandatory.

 

Excellent point... I got 290K miles out my original brake pads. I suspect the amount of times the pads, rotors and calipers being replaced is an indication of how this problem happened. As in OCD maintenance that's done too early and too often can cause damage by wearing out all the parts by taking them apart and putting them back together again so many times.

And it might not be an issue with cars as much as with laptops. But I can tell you first hand that by the third time you take apart a laptop to repair or replace stuff, most of the fasteners are going to end up being worn out or broken.

 

Maybe OP’s at 500k miles?

Toyota USA recommends brake inspection every 30k.

fwiw: with the front brakes on our 2010: I did inspection at 93k kms {58k miles), and they were around 6 mm remaining on the pads, which for me indicates at least halfway to replacement. New they're 10 mm, service limit is 1 mm, but I were to find them at anything less than 3 mm I'd be changing them.

(With the rears, "something bad happened", I changed the pads/shims early on, and they're probably around i mm still, wear slower I think.)