Is it worth saving? P0A0F code!

The hv battery is not too low to turn it over if the engine is "thumping and clanking". The battery is on life support and has been for months.

But it's now just part of a repair vs junk decision because of this.


Sorry but that is a blown engine. Odds are high the aluminum head and block are warped significantly allowing this oil and coolant milkshake to run wild throughout the engine.

Most likely there is a bent connecting rod or worse.

I would not even buy a gasket set before you teardown this thing. You won't need gaskets on the replacement engine should you go that route.

 

You don't need an engine to reverse.
You may have a great high-voltage battery, but a really bad engine.
Don't try to start it. Take the engine apart first and assess the extent of the disaster.

 

Has the car set a P3000-389 code and refused to even try to crank? Or is "the battery is too low" a judgment you are making for it?

 

The message of the P0A0F-238 was that the engine mechanically couldn't be cranked. That's a different issue, completely unsurprising when the cylinder is filled with liquid.

It now remains to be determined whether the cylinder full of liquid was the only reason the engine mechanically couldn't be cranked, or something mechanically also broke at the transmission input. If you are now able to easily crank the engine by hand with the coolant escaping through the spark plug hole, then a quick cranking test by the car will give the answer to this question.

In a car with a manual transmission there'd be easier ways. You could just put the tranny in gear with the wheels on the ground and confirm that you can't turn the engine by hand anymore (or the car moves when you do). That would prove the input shaft is still intact. But the way a Prius transmission is built, it will only freewheel in any test like that. The only ways to check the input shaft are to let the car try to crank, or to take the transmission off and look.

 

Exactly. That is what happens when we are talking about the engine and hydrolock.

You might be the first if the transaxle literally broke. A few have damaged the spring loaded damper attached to the flywheel (no transaxle removal required).

A few have changed a functioning transaxle due to bearing noise. Some of these show metal in the transaxle oil.

A very few have had winding shorts in the transaxle which coded as a high voltage hybrid drive problem but did not lock up the transaxle.

 

We've got pictures on PriusChat of snapped input shafts. Wouldn't be the first.

If the torque damper coil springs get beaten to smithereens first, then the impulse torques delivered to the input shaft become really high.

But the code could also simply mean that the engine could not be cranked and the ECU gave up, and the transmission is undamaged. That would be nice to find out.

 

If you want to upload videos you need to upload them to YouTube first (after registering there), then provide a link here.

 

I sort of like posting 'watch' URLs instead of 'shorts' URLs ... when it's a 'shorts' URL, I get fewer controls on the player like for slowing down or reviewing.

 

I'll post a link to GasketMasters Gen 3 head gasket disassembly/reassembly youtube if you don't have it bookmarked already.

Caution : Especially when diving in as a newbie.

Here are some links with some tips for DIY grid charger builds. keep in mind you'll need 4 MeanWell APC-35-350 Constant Current Power supplies wired in series for a Prius pack - instead of the 2 wired in series, like in the videos for the Honda NiMH packs that are rated at a lower voltage. I've seen the MeanWell APC-35-350 model this morning as low as $14 a piece on the bay and $8 each on ali.
Build Hybrid Battery Maintenance Gear For Under $100 | PriusChat
and Peters youtube channel showing the setup again this time for the small honda crz pack.

Also keep in mind that not all LED supplies function the same So you can't always rely on their basic spec sheets to tell you exactly how they're gonna behave. You want to use exact or VERY similar devices to ones that have been tested and work for what you are going to be using them for.

 

I don't know what the minimum state of charge is, but if you have P3000-389 you've reached it, and if you don't, you haven't.

U0100 is a failure to communicate with the ECM, which is in the engine compartment in gen 3, with both the engine harness and the engine room main harness connecting to it. You might have things a little too disconnected.

 

If you remove the coils and plugs you can use a long screw driver or long stick….
down the spark plug hole and measure the height of each piston… without removing the head..

 

This one does look suspicious but you can measure again when the head is off.



I would mark the dowel's rotation to ensure the same mark is used.

 

Google "depth gauge micrometer" for the bees-knees tool for this.