Anyone replace the front struts on a first gen Prius? Looked for videos and not sure the steps? Similar to a second gen?
Should be almost identical to a second generation depending upon what you're doing If you're not doing wheel bearings and all that then you'll just be undoing the two big top bolts on the hub and the three bolts up at the top on the strut tower removing any hosing or anything else that's attached to the strut and the strut bar or the end links there's a Allen key hex in the end link so you can put an Allen key in there use the box end wrench to undo the nut and then wind it off should take you 45 minutes aside to sling up new struts only It's a different story if you're doing wheel bearings at the same time obviously I try to do all that stuff on each side of the front end at one time wheel bearing lower ball joint strut end link if needed
Bought the strut assembly not just the struts, which means at least I should not need to try to compress the springs My 2001 Mustang, the struts are not in the springs so they were not hard but these look potentially easier Not trying to do the wheel bearings at the same time although would not be surprised if they should be done.
Then you are good to go You can do this with just combination wrenches practically maybe of course except for taking the wheel off but yeah there's no compressing of anything I always get the complete strut assembly for all of these things that I own anyway I have a spring compressor mounted on the wall here at the shop I haven't used it in 25 years usually we just get complete strut assemblies with springs that we can specify or not.
Am I going to need to remove the windshield wipers and shield or will I be able to work around them? From the video, it looks like I might be able to reach inside / under it. My guiding light is that if I don't have to take something apart, there is no sense in doing so. I know that I have seen videos where 2nd gen, you are suppose to remove the headlights to replace the bulbs but I can reach in and do it. I think some people also remove far more to do the spark plugs while I just moved the (relay/) box right over them and had enough room as well.
I'll leave everything in place to change a spark plugs except for the little fuse box the 10 mm screws and that's it no need for the wiper tray out If you want to be patient you might be able to undo the three nuts on top I take the tray out for this because when you put the strut up you need to have your other hand to put the three nuts on loosely to hold the strut be really hard to reach under that to do it but hey if you can more power to you this gives me a chance to clean out the tray get the garbage from the winter out all that anyway so no biggie some people might take this time to mouse proof that area who knows depends where you live unless you have real small hands or some real nice tooling you probably will need to remove the tray unless you have some of this very late model icon low profile quarter inch drive stuff I kind of doubt it.
Opened the hood and looked. I will have to remove the tray to get to the top of the struts. The video uses vice grips. Is that the best tool for the top bolt?
What top bolts vise grips absolutely not You're just taking three 12 or 14 mm nuts loose they're under the tray that center nut holds the top plate in the spring down Don't touch it unless I'm mistaken about what you're talking about turning with vise grips You don't need any vice grips for this job 12:14 10 mm etc can be all quarter inch drive till you get down to the big 19 mm nuts on the front hub.
I don't think use Allen wrench in stud wrench on nut no grips look at it man ..you will see. Or use grips of ya like that sort of thing
Sunday, I only was able to replace the passenger strut. I realized that the line attached by the 10 mm bolt was under the front of strut while it needs to go over the front of the strut. Took it apart and put it back in right. Also had a hell of a time getting the arm connected by the 17 mm bolt back in. Still I was able to get the strut back together. I have a question though. There is a rubber seal on the tray on the front side. The plastic rivets broke and it is just kind of sitting there. I have a couple of questions with that. Can I get a new rubber seal? If so, do you know what it is called? As an alternative, could I push bolts through the rubber seal and bolt it and/or use zip ties?
In my experience, these seals are not super important, but not having it will potentially introduce more water in the underhood area, possibly change airflow/cooling a little bit and otherwise just be not-quite-right On my car, that seal has the little plastic clips molded into it, and if one didn't know that, easy to damage. If it were me i would try to attach with loose/barely touching small zip ties or similar.
I have not wanted to work on the second strut in the snow but as soon as the snow is gone and the ground is dry, I plan to do the driver's side strut and going to try to use zip ties or something to hold it.
I know it has been over a month but I finally got the driver side strut in as well. Biggest thing is that I needed someone to get the top nuts in just a few turns while I held it up. I managed to do the passenger side without doing it but decided to get at least that much help. Had trouble with what I think is the sway bar link on the passenger side. I manage to find an easier way where I put the side on a jack stand and used the hydraulic jack to lift up the axle assembly and get it back together that way. Used zip ties to hold in the weather strip. May not be perfect but better than nothing. Should not go anywhere and there should not be too much leakage where the zip ties are.
Similar antics in the generation 2 usually I blast apart all the bolts in link included and then if your car is lifted up one side at a time your sway bars pushing up and so on on the side you're working on because the other side is on the ground where is the car is lifted in the middle or at each rocker panel with two separate jacks You're at full droop so then when you loosen everything at the hub the end link and all of that loosen the three top nuts and get two of them off and one of them very loosely holding the business together then I reach down with my hand underneath the spring on the strut remove the last top nut let the strut come down so that the end link is straight with the hole that it's in and push it out with my finger and withdraw the strut and put it back the same way but the end link in the hole push the strut up and catch one nut swing it over and put on another nut but the nut on the end link and continue on
