I did not quote you. I was paraphrasing what you said in a reply to Prodigyplace. If you want me to quote what you wrote, here it is:
@MiloEffel95 Don't worry too much about the results from Dr. Prius. The result of battery testing is not accurate. As long as you have no issue for 1 miles in EV mode, the battery does not drop suddenly from full bars to 1 bar after fast acceleration, then it is fine. No body knows when the battery fail, very often it is just a sudden thing. A new battery after a core charge roughly cost $2500 from Toyota dealership. It will be marked as refurbished because they used ol clading plate for the battery cover. The cells and the thermostats are all brand new from Panasonic. Just keep driving, change the oil every 5k miles, do engine oil flush before oil change if it just starts consuming engine oil. Clean the EGR and intake manifolds every 70k miles and not uncommon people reached 200k or 300k miles in Prius gen 3.
Currently playing with a hobby charger. And have several questions: 1) so far on 10+ cycles for 8 blades/modules and none of them over 1000 miliAIs this a complete waste of time? Additionally, one of the modules displays "Full" after just one cycle. However, I know it hasn't yet reached the desired capacity of 5000/7500. What does this indicate?
In my opinion, yes, it is a waste of time. With 227k miles on the HV battery, it is time to replace it. If you plan on keeping the car for 2 or more years, buy new OEM.
I am not sure what are you trying to do. Charging to full charge is a bad thing on NiMh and Li battery. It is programmed only about 30 to 70% cycle. Just drive and enjoy the car. if the battery is dead, nothing you can do about it. The battery are kaputt and get new cells. The degradation is not linear, it is more like step function. Sudden death like a hearth attack
Me too, not sure what I'm trying to do. I tried to determine the bad modules and good ones, I guess. If there is any other way besides charging and discharging I’m all up to it . As I understand, the quickest way is to measure the internal resistance, because the voltage of the module in the pack doesn’t really tell you anything.
Dr. Prius didn’t show any indication of which one is bad. Internal resistance according to him is good in every module, checked IR with Viking battery tester for every individual module reads 5,2-5,7 I though Hobby changed will identify it, so far every single one is bad
I’ve started to suspect when it’s still in the pack, it behaves like one cell, good ones compensate for bad once. Currently testing a single module that came from eBay. If Hobby gives me a different reading, I will disassemble the pack and test every module individually. I know, I’m a freak . Id like to understand
Exactly, Dr. Prius only can tell which one is bad once the battery gives Christmas lights on the dash. The chemistry on NiMh battery is very hard to test unlike Lithium that degrades linearly. NiMh is just sudden jump to the death cliff.
The charge at 3 A on the hubby charger was too much for the blade to take, so I changed it to 1.5 A. And it has changed a whole story. The process goes very slow, but at least I’m getting capacity clear, aiming to have at least 2000 mA on discharge and 4000 mA on charge to see if it’s going to improve anything. Than change it back to 3A on charge. My newly bought blade is gaining a capacity, but it’s frustrating to buy a “refurbished” module with no capacity left
