First time preventative maintenance

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by avoice217, Dec 31, 2024.

  1. avoice217

    avoice217 Member

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    Thanks for this info sir, but unfortunately my car didn't come with the manual. The gentleman that I purchased it from apparently purchased it from the same small business car place that he just bought another used car from. However, there's plenty of nice used manuals online from eBay, so I'm gonna get one of those. Also in reference to what you were talking about with the replacement spark plugs, I honestly have no idea where the previous owner even got the spark plugs from or even if he had the spark plugs replaced to begin with. If what you're saying is the case, then I'll probably just wait til next year to see about replacing them. Besides, I know that I have other areas that need attention for sure.
     
  2. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    No one mentioned it, but you've got to do quite a bit of disassembly (windshield cowl/tray under the wipers) before you can even get to the sparkplugs.

    SM-G781V ?
     
  3. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    You seemed to have missed the free and easier to use owners manual I pointed out.

    No one has a factory repair manual other than pieces captured as pdfs from Toyota's TIS site.

     
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  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Witness Leader

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    see video 13 here:

    Nutz About Bolts Prius Maintenance Videos | PriusChat

    ^ one quibble: he slathers plug threads with ant-sieze and advocates 20 ft lbs torque. Toyota Repair Manual says 15, and no mention of lube, so presumably clean/dry threads.

    yeah, an astounding amount of disassemble required, just because the coils bump the wiper cowl underside an inch or two before they can be extracted. Not Toyotas finest engineering.

    attached repair manual excerpt has spark plug info. Last page, with plug torque, is a thousand pages or so away from the rest. :rolleyes:

    Plug spec is shown in owners manual, except that spec has been superseded by Toyota, to a slightly hotter plug (“20” designation revised to “16”). I posted that updated Denso plug spec up the page, plus it’s Toyota part no (in post 14).

    you’ll need a 14 mm (or 9/16”) socket. If it’s got rubber inset to grip plug, I’d recommend to tape socket to extension securely, to avoid it pulling off after new plug install.
     

    Attached Files:

    #24 Mendel Leisk, Jan 3, 2025 at 8:35 AM
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2025 at 8:53 AM
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  5. johnHRP

    johnHRP Active Member

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    I won't invest on anything but oil change first on the first 1 year/5k miles and check if everything is fine, the car does not burn oil, and everything works. After that:
    1. Clean the EGR and intake manifolds, don't waste time too muchon trying to shining up the EGR cooler
    2. Change the engine coolant with genuine Toyota SLLC if it has not been replaced before
    3. Change the transmission fluid at the same time
    4. Change the spark plugs at 240k miles
    That's all, hopefully no problem before reaching no. 4.
     
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  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Witness Leader

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    One thing, the colloquial name "cooler" is not for naught: if it's purpose was solely to flow exhaust gasses, it wouldn't have the internal raidator. If that radiator has a patina of carbon, it may still have "sufficient" flow, but it's cooling ability is hampered. Several hour-long soaks with a concentrated solution of oxi-clean (or lye solution if oxi is inusufficent) can get it like-new clean, and restore it's cooling efficacy.

    For expeidience when doing EGR cleaning, get the EGR cooler soaking started first, then go onto cleaning of the EGR valve, the pipe twixt EGR valve and intake manifold, the intake manifold (pay special attention to the EGR passages at each port), and the intake ports on the head. Maybe set an hour timer for rinse-and-repeat of the EGR cooler.
     
  7. johnHRP

    johnHRP Active Member

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    I soaked the EGR cooler in a brake cleaner solution by plugging both side holes. I have a used cooler for spare and reduced down time. I also have used intake manifolds and EGR valves. It costs less than $100 but can reduce the down time by hours.
     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Witness Leader

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    I tried about 12 hours of brake cleaner soak, then gave up on that. A water-based, caustic cleaner (Oxi or lye solution) is much better.
     
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  9. johnHRP

    johnHRP Active Member

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    That's true,I don't see much difference after soaking it with brake cleaner. It remove sludge and oily things well. I think hard carbon deposit best cleaner is always hot steam water+dish soap.
     
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  10. avoice217

    avoice217 Member

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    Hey all so I've been watching videos on how to remove the EGR valve. So far only 1 video showed where you removed the windshield wipers as well as the motor. Should I really remove that or should I just focus on getting the other parts removed? Also there's been a couple of videos talking about the PITA bolt, but unfortunately nothing has really shown on how to remove it. I guess its really more a matter of just feeling around that area? Also I haven't seen any videos on using Oxi to clean the EGR valve yet.

    Also I'm totally down cleaning the intake manifold along with the throttle body (I honestly love where the position for this is).
     
  11. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Removing the wiper assembly is the easy part and certainly changes an impossible egr cooler removal job to simply ridiculous.

    You have to know how to remove it to get to the spark plugs as well. Might want to simply pull the plugs and inspect while you are bloody and greasy anyway.

    I have been trying to get our egr fanatic and parts illustrator for a living guy Mendel to whip up some decent exploded views with tools.
     
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  12. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    You are not going to get to the cooler with the wiper assembly still in place.
    Just duck-duck-go search for spark plug removal on the Prius and they will show you
    how to remove it. Fairely simple and quick. A lot of bolts, that's all.
    Getting the wire harness plastic holders out is the biggest pain.
    Mark with painters tape where the wiper blades are before removing them so you know
    where to reinstall them.
    That bolt is NOT that hard to do if you have a small 1/4 inch ratchet.
    oxi will take forever to work and multiple water changes to get it clean.
    Pressure washer and oven clean is the best way to clean it.

     
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Witness Leader

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    @Raytheeagle said he did one EGR cleaning without wiper/cowl removal, resolved to not go that route again.

    @rjparker im not sure a blow-by-blow narrative would be helpful. It’s somewhat akin to reading a completely typed out speech word-for-word, versus just referring to cue cards. The latter is better I think.
     
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  14. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Some challenges aren't required to repeat;).

    Wiper Cowling removal is easy enough:).

    Clean the cooler(y).
     
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