Replaced Spark Plugs Bc Shuddering; 2 Months Later Shuddering Again + Dead Hybrid Battery 2010 Prius

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by AmansaTheNeed, Jan 3, 2025 at 10:47 PM.

  1. AmansaTheNeed

    AmansaTheNeed New Member

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    TLDR: Oct '24 took car into shop because check engine light on & car shuddering. Shop replaced spark plugs. Dec '24 check hybrid system light on & car shuddering again. Shop diagnostic P0A80 replace hybrid battery pack. Next steps for a total newb? Worth repairing the car? Head gasket, EGR, intake manifold?

    Car history:
    My sister's 2010 Prius (it's my ex-car :cry:) has 235k miles on it. Bought in 2016 from original owner with 115k miles. I drove it through 2019, she's been driving it since. Other (relevant?) info: inverter failed in 2020, Toyota rebuilt on their dime. Small fender bender in 2021 (rear ended the car in front of her at low speed). My reliable mechanic shop inspected the vehicle afterwards: minor cosmetic issues (body shop fixed dent in hood, repainted); check hybrid system light on, ran diagnostic & got code DTC P0A85 indicating battery pack cooling fan malfunction, cleared the code, said it's all good. Those two scenarios are the only time the dashboard's ever lit up like a Christmas tree until now. Replaced engine oil & filter July 2024. Regular oil changes (well, up until this year, so I just discovered).

    Current issue:
    In October 2024, the dashboard lit up, "check engine light", car shuddering. Took it into the shop (different one than previously), diagnostic showed starter battery was bad and spark plugs needed to be replaced. Got new starter battery. Replaced spark plugs. Car ran like normal.

    Then mid December 2024, the dashboard lit up, "check hybrid system", car shuddering. There's also a knocking sound with the shuddering. Did hybrid diagnostic, P0A80 replace hybrid battery pack. Tech noted the engine(?) shuddering in his notes, shop did not investigate engine further because check engine indicators weren't on and the first order of business is dealing with the battery pack. The shuddering is most pronounced when the car first starts, especially in this colder weather. Struggles to accelerate. Test drive today got to 55mph (didn't want to push it any further), but not a smooth ride. Shuddering calmed down with driving, but the car was straining. Later restarts of the car had lesser and lesser shuddering. Was not present for first start up today; will observe that tomorrow.

    Also just learned she got behind on her oil changes, oil is 1.5L too low. She's fixing that as I type this lol

    The dilemma:
    She commutes for school & work. Initially started researching buying a used car because shop quoted prices that totaled the Prius. After dumping $1k into it back in Oct for the spark plugs, she felt like she was at the break point where it made more sense to start over with something newer vs keep throwing more money at the 16 year old car.

    Unfortunately, prices for anything decent & reliable are obscene (and out of her college student budget). Can't find private sellers, only people flipping cars. Debating what the best option is. On the one hand, swapping out to something newer has the potential to last longer and get her through the next few years. At the same time, anything she buys will still be several years old, we won't know the history of the car, could end up dealing with same issues. With the 2010 Prius, we know the history and what maintenance has/hasn't been done.

    No one in my family is mechanically inclined, so not sure what's really going on and thus don't know what the cost to repair the 2010 Prius is. Hard to tell if it's better to repair or get something new. Currently have a company scheduled to come to us & replace the hybrid battery with a refurbished hybrid battery pack (in the $1.5k range; shop quoted $4.5k+). Will probably do this whether she keeps or sells the car; necessary fix if keeping, improves sell-ability if going that route.

    What I've researched:
    Be forewarned that this represents hours of research by someone who does not understand cars lol I have learned a lot though! But I'm sure my knowledge gaps are wide and I don't know what I don't know. I've watched lots of the videos y'all have shared on other threads and read through tons of helpful info. Struggling to apply to my circumstances though.

    The three issues I've seen pop up all over this forum and elsewhere is the Head Gasket, Intake Manifold, and EGR components. To my knowledge it's the original head gasket, and neither the intake manifold or EGR components have ever been cleaned. From my research, all signs point to one of these three causing the shuddering issue. I've reached a base level understanding of the three. Mainly not sure how to proceed.

    What makes sense as far as order to investigate?

    Do we clean the intake manifold, EGR components (this is the EGR tube and EGR cooler?), and replace the PCV valve for good measure to start? DIY might be an option, I've been watching lots of videos y'all have shared, and my sister has a friend who is willing to help us through the DIY process. However, my sister and I have no car repair experience, and I'm not involving my dad because mechanical issues make him throw wrenches across the yard and expand our vocabulary with colorful new words. :ROFLMAO:

    If addressing these parts is the way to go and we realize we aren't cut out for the task, what do I need to convey to a mechanic that I want done? Do they do their own investigation and clean/address these parts as they feel necessary? Or do I need to communicate here's specifically what I want done?

    If we clean those components and the car still shudders, is the next step to investigate the head gasket? How does one determine if the head gasket has a problem? I've read about head gasket issues leading to compression issues, which lead to an arm (I cannot for the life of me remember the actual part name lol) bending and eventually punching through the side of the engine. Is there a way I can verify there aren't holes in the engine? Obviously I would look at it lol but what would I be looking for and where? And if there aren't holes, how do I tell if there is an issue but there's not *yet* holes? If there are holes, is the engine a goner? If the arm has already bent and has been knocking against the side of the engine without holes, how do I tell if it's fine or if it's too late to save the engine? Also if an arm is bent and is knocking against the side of the engine without holes, does replacing the head gasket make everything okay then? (I don't need specific answers to each of these questions lol Just wording things in different ways to give an idea of where my knowledge gaps are:))

    As an aside, my sister's friend with car rebuilding experience says the knocking we hear with the shuddering could be a rod knocking in the engine, which he says means it's game over for the engine.

    Does it make more sense to start with head gasket and then move to the EGR & intake manifold?

    Sorry this is so long. Again, I'm not sure what's relevant to the current problem and have a lot of questions. ;)I think I understand the concepts of how the three things (head gasket, EGR, and intake manifold) can cause the shuddering, but I don't understand how to properly troubleshoot to get to the core of the issue. Also there's still the question of whether these repairs (replace battery; fix shuddering) make sense financially or if it's time to let this car go. I appreciate any direction!
     
  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Witness Leader

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    That preposterous.
    With those miles EGR will be a lump of carbon. It’s likely had head gasket leaking coolant into combustion chambers for a protracted time. Have there been any coolant running low incidents? Also what’s the oil consumption rate?

    If you stick with it, a replacement engine (preferably a quality rebuilt such as Hybrid Pit Stop) offers, or rebuild what you’ve got, with the full gasket kit (includes head gasket), new head bolts and more’n likely a block rebuild or replacement.

    Still, considering the hybrid battery’s failing as well, might be time to move on.
     
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  3. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Don't do any of that your school kids that need a car to get back and forth to school essentially it sounds like this is not the car for that now that you're done with this and you're getting into money that totals the car this is where you want to stop fooling and messing around with your money your insurance company or whoever is totaling the car your mechanic is telling you You're totaling the car with money You're getting to where you're so far in the red you'll never be able to pull your head out of whatever it's up and get back in the black so there's always that You've picked the perfect car for this because this car will carry you right down through there and you'll be thinking you're making plenty of sense forget it I mean he's going to tell me that the car market's crazy and everything's insane you think I don't know that I've never spent more than five or $600 for a car until I don't know 2010 or something so yeah I feel your pain in the shock but it's not that bad as it was just three four years ago it was horrible now there are some $1,500 prius that pop up. And won't take $10,000 to fix them of course they're not of this genre this is where you kind of gotten sort of in trouble and now these are 16 years old like you say. So you have to ask yourself do you want to continue getting back and forth to school with no problem or do you need to get back and forth to school and have a later model car payment just because? Those are your questions I mean you can go out and find a 2002 to 2005 Corolla on the marketplace that's got all the same color body panels on it that still runs good and all that and I'll carry you to school until you graduate but it's not within 5 years of being new or any of that but it'll run forever I got two sitting here can't get rid of them just because of the things I'm talking about but it'll run forever looks decent doing it has ice cold air conditioning and the heat will run you out of the car but because the car is 23 years old people look at it like you're out of your mind and I'm like yeah well when the crap hits the fan and I've got to go this is a car that has almost nothing electronic in it it's just going to start and go so when it's time to go meet mad Max at the thunderdome the corolla's going the Prius will be staying home for the most part because it can go and it can be fixed with paper clips almost where the car you're driving not going to be doing any of that with or without experience so I don't know where you're thinking will take you fixing this don't make that mistake don't be that guy You can read all that pain right here there's tons of it hundreds of pages enjoy reading it and don't live it You need something reliable get an older Corolla I'm telling you it's a license to print money It may not keep you up with the Joneses If you know what I'm talking about but hey you got to get past that until you got money to buy you past the Joneses That's how that works That's why you're in school so round up an old piece of whatever you want to call it and keep getting yourself to school and then in short order you'll be buying one of these new cars but keep the Corolla because you know these new things aren't like Dad's old car so there's always that look at these 50,000 $80,000 cars that are burning to the ground and catching on fire and all kinds of nonsense and they're not even 2 years old I mean think about that stuff I don't want any part of that I'm just trying to get down to the store and the tractor supply and over to the food Lion not have my life savings tied up in four wheels must be kidding me but that seems to be the thing now I just try to not have to deal with it.
     
  4. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    I wouldn't put any more money into that car. Time to move on.

    Good luck!
     
  5. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    ^+1. It's time to get a different car. Do not waste your money on trying to fix the present car. It will be a money pit.
     
  6. AmansaTheNeed

    AmansaTheNeed New Member

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    Absolutely! The previous shop owner was great- fair and honest, always did right by customers. Sold it when he retired, and we've been less than impressed with the new management.

    Thank you everyone for the input and advice. Sounds like it's time to let this one go. Now back to trying to find something reliable...

    One other thought adjacent to this topic- is the EGR, intake manifold, head gasket issue specific to gen 3 Prius, or is it advisable to clean the EGR and intake manifold as a matter of upkeep for newer models too? Other sister has a 2021 (maybe 2020...) Prius. Just curious if it's something she should do to extend the life of the car.

    No coolant issues as far as I'm aware. Not sure on oil consumption rate.
     
    #6 AmansaTheNeed, Jan 4, 2025 at 9:55 PM
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 5, 2025 at 1:32 AM
  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Witness Leader

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    @jerrymildred (member here) worked part time for Tampa Hybrids, and did quite a few 3rd Gen EGR cleanings. They had a 4th Gen customer request EGR cleaning; the car had over 300k miles if I recall correctly. When they got into it they found only minor dusting of carbon.

    Toyota implemented EGR in Gen 3, and very evident in hindsight, with insufficient testing. Gen 4 EGR has significant differences, that illustrate the shortcomings of the Gen 3 design.

    Same could be said for the low-tension piston rings they specd, till partway through model year 2014.
     
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  8. johnHRP

    johnHRP Active Member

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    The theory of how engine fails :
    1. The engine starts burning oil
    2. sludge and oil sucked by EGR. Clogging still happens without oil consumption
    3. the EGR ports at the ends of the intake manifold clogged
    4. unbalanced EGR gas causes miss air mixtures. Lean = hot cylinder
    5. Head gasket fail
    6. waterpump eventually failed from hot coolant and oil contaminant. Sometimes, it just fails from cracked polymer wrapping the impeller
     
    #8 johnHRP, Jan 5, 2025 at 1:23 PM
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2025 at 1:31 PM
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  9. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    if you look at gen 4, be aware that the early ones have bad exhaust heat exchangers, which can also lead to blown head gasket/engine
     
  10. johnHRP

    johnHRP Active Member

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    It does damage the head gasket. Only look like head gasket failure symptoms. By pass it or using 8y/80k miles federal emission warranty to get a replacement. In the USA, emission system and ECU has 8y/80k miles warranty by law. Longer in California.
     
  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Witness Leader

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    Toyota's reaction to the law: "we'd love to abide by the law, but the replacement parts are on back order, and there's nothing we can do about it". :rolleyes:
     
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  12. johnHRP

    johnHRP Active Member

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    it was a typo. It does NOT damage the head gasket, only have similar symptoms.