All I wanted was a wheel bearing help

You got any pictures of that business all of that stuff basically drops together usually most people take that big aluminum hub off the car and straddle it over two 4x4s or some dimensional lumber and one hit with the hammer if the bolts are out The wheel bearing plops out and sits between the two pieces of wood that you have the hub resting on even in rusty Massachusetts but I guess whatever usually in a non-rust belt area what you see is some oxidation of the aluminum against the steel outer portion of the wheel bearing that drops into the aluminum hole this is like a white dried residue usually you can just take a piece of crocus cloth commonly called sandpaper for metal and just run that around the oxidation in the bore where the bearing drops in. Don't even really need any lubrication but be that as it may You've got it all pulled in and all back together sounds like you're going to need to do a brake bleed because inadvertently you were able to undo some bolt that makes no sense to be undoing for this job but made plenty of sense at the time this happens pretty regularly when I guess folks don't work on things or maybe might not ought to be working on things I don't know can't see from here so now you're going to need the probably round up a scanner that's capable of doing brake bleeding a cheap one that you could get really quick would be the AP200 it does work I do use it I also have the Toyota software but this keeps me from having to drag that laptop out to vehicles which is very helpful If not you can try bleeding it like you did all your other cars if you did that sort of thing well before the Prius If not you'll need somebody that knows how to bleed brakes the old style way and try that first but more than likely you're going to need the scanner to operate the valves and what have you because well you let the brake fluid go it's not what's supposed to happen here but you'll get it directly not too much to it If you never cracked the brake bleed or cracked the sealed brake system you would not have any of these problems more than likely I change wheel bearings on the same model pretty regularly not the same car all the time Gen 2 Prius and never have to touch the brakes so you shouldn't be having to either but that ship is sailed

 

All I'm using a 5 lb mall or two and a half pound a little more than just a hammer but I got you and just says you're a man in the USA so nobody knows around here what that means but I've lived in Western Massachusetts which is pretty much the rust belt as it gets not fun that's for sure but then you're not keeping cars there long the strut towers rushed out in 3 years and your flintstoning the vehicle literally

 

Your scanner is clearing the codes but they come right back as the problem still exists.

 

That's right there's no way in that caliper That's that's that's probably correct but I don't know what's happened further up the line did any air get up anywhere else apparently so because you have these codes or you have a faulty brake booster that's I don't remember so far down in the story whether you have a brand new brake booster installed or one from another car any of that. If you're using the Toyota software you should have been able to run the bleed menu and go through the part where you step on the pedal 30 times and 30 seconds to activate the valves in the break actuator that clears any air there. But that's usually not what your codes are about not air everything but and yes if you're not clearing your codes then they're not clearing if you're going to wait for them to go away just driving the car and I don't know how many drive cycles or what if that'll happen at all usually you clear the codes and if they come straight back that means the problem is directly existing or something similar this is when the factory manual comes in handy with some of these codes.