Just won an auction on a 2015 Prius V, initial maintenance suggestions?

That's a damn good price for Prius V 2015. Do a 5k-7k oil change interval and it should reduced the odd of future oil consumption issue. I have 2015 made 2ZR-FXE and no oil consumption although I often cruise at 90mph/140kmh in the Autobahn. I drove for about 1000 miles every summer in the alps too.
Past 2015, the overal package is more reliable but EGR and intake cleaning is still necessary every 100k miles. The cases of blown head gasket is much less in Europe because we often use E5 (actually only <3% ethanol) and it is RON95 or Mid (AKI 91) fuel in US. Or simply less statistical sampling. The oil consumption is also much less an issue because most European Oil ACEA C5 standard is fully synthetic and often using Longlife IV VW 508/509 standard with higher standard requirement. In the USA, just get 0W-20 Mobil 1 Truck/SUV or Valvoline Restore/Protect.
The brake booster is not that problematic either because European handbook stated Brake fluid flush every 2 years. https://www.toyota-tech.eu/MS/PDFS/67ad3b19c71643719143f68802b7310a.pdf
I am not sure if it is one of the reason because the water content on my 7y old brake fluid in the reservoir is still <2% and the color is still amber clear.
Surprisingly, the hybrid battery is not an issue either here. Toyota gives 15years warranty for hybrid battery in UK./Ireland and Germany with hybrid system check that cost about $50 per year.

Prius V is the favorite for Taxi and Uber driver, it is as big as RAV4 with taller trunk.

 

You're wasting your time looking at the egr tube. You need to clean the cooler.

 

clean it, replace it, whatever. It will clog and the tub will not.
The intake egr tools will clog also, it's easier to to check them, and clean the manifold.

That bolt is EASY! I had no idea what everyone was talking about the first time I removed the cooler.
I guess having the CORRECT TOOL for the job just made it easy....

You could just clean the cooler you removed for next time...

 

Or just remove the nut and stud at that location?

Might be normal. There's a link in my signature regarding rear brakes, with a video of me spinning the rear wheels by hand; will give you some idea what they should sound like. (on a phone turn it landscape to see signatures)

At 105k miles I wouldn't hesitate to clean the full EGR system, including the EGR passages in the intake manifold. Repeat every 50k therearfter. First two links in my signature have tips and info on that.

 

If your cooler is gunked, the entire egr circuit has to be ungunked so it’s more than the cooler and pipe that will be cleaning. Initiation to the egr cleaning club membership is done, full member when it’s cleaned.

 

@ChaseE Keep your original Denso SC16HR11 or SC20HR11 since they are Iridium and last 100k miles without significant wear unless they are fake. The NGK iridium is also Ok alternative but not the Ruthenium IX (shorter life). But 60k miles is fine, not 120k miles unlike iridium laser plugs.
I always stick with the OEM sparkplugs especielly Iridium type (longest life). Don't worry about the black ring around the ceramic, that is normal corona from the coil plugs and can be wiped off.
You can measure the wear but usually it is not noticable in 50k miles.

 

MPG is often just placebo or change of driving style. There is no real evidence any sparkplug can increase MPG unless they misfire and cause mpg drop
Non OEM sparkplugs often cause weird things but if it is fine, it is fine. The OEM newest revision is longlife style Iridium Denso SC16HR11, the older one is a bit colder SC20HR11 to reduce fouling since many Priuses 2010-2014 consumes oil.

 

For the lower EGR bracket connection, there's a nut, 12 mm socket size IIRC, and behind that a stud that takes an E8 Torx socket. When I removed the stud it was very slow going, one click at a time, with a small 1/4" ratchet wrench. There's a lot of hoses/cables/bracket in your way, and due to steel going into an aluminum hole, some corrosion made it fight all the way out. I was afraid I'd round the head.
There's a large diameter coolant hose just forward of this connection, the nut's just behind, around 3 o'clock (picturing the hose in section there, like a clock face.

A long handled ratchet wrench with a swivel head helps, for initially getting that lower bracket nut off. Try a long socket, short socket, shortish extension. It's a pain getting just the right amount of reach, with all the stuff in your way.

Note: you can remove this nut and stud without removing much if anything else. Any time, in advance. I would also trial remove some of the other EGR system fasteners, put a thin patina of anti-seize on them and reinstall, so you're smoother sailing when you do take the plunge.

In case it's not understood: never reinstall either the nut or stud lol.

Torque values for everything in pdf excerpts from Repair Manual, in top link in my signature.

 

Yeah, definitely there may be a bit improvement like double iridium. May be 0.1% like the one i. 4th gen Prius. But the compression is also increase in 4th gen.

 

Snap-On 1/4 inch drive braker bar, with a woggly extension, then ratchet...

What was the CORRECT TOOL you used specifically? I'm not looking forward to struggling for an hour to get a single nut.[/QUOTE]

 

Breaker bar first then ratchet?

 

It's trickier with the swivel, but it probably would work....

You think a u-joint swivel adaptor will work? If not I can just pick up a 4" 3/8 wobble extension at lowes for $10[/QUOTE]

 

Just try with what you've got. If not successful, you'll at least have an inkling why. A swivel-head ratchet is handy, just to snake it through all the spaghetti in that area, Then play with long socket vs short socket, extension lengths, you'll get there.