Help with Brake System

I can tell you on one car I had to change the actuator twice because of almost exact problems that you're having now when you change your break actuator and you do the bleed procedure it would behoove you if you don't know that you're 12 volt is in better than excellent condition and even if it is to put the charger on your 12 volt while you're bleeding and doing learning just a pro tip. Before you learn the linear valve offset you're supposed to delete the stored values It tells you that in the tech menu when you're there so you're clearing out your original learned value and then you're learning the new value and if you can't learn the new value then more than likely it's the break actuator that is the problem I guess that's where the learned value stays with that system or something along those lines I haven't heard anybody replacing the brake computer I guess there must be one of those there's 21 computers in the car for this issue it's usually they're changing the actuator until they get one that will learn the linear valve offset value that it sees and store it.

 

Don't know if it helps, i used the Autel scanner to do the procedure and it worked fine. I used brand new unit from the local dealership. One thing it forces you to do is to connect a 12V battery charger so that the voltage will never go down. Can you redo the procedure with the charger connected?

Check this -> Just replaced my brake actuator now have C1345 & C1368 | PriusChat

 

I don't know if the procedure states what amperage the charger should be capable of, but I expect you to need something in the range of five to ten amps. What I'm saying is a trickle charger will not suffice, you need something better.

 

Well I guess I'm lucky then I believe what I'm using is my Schumacher branded red It's five amps or under It has a little power sports plug on it that goes to like the cord you buy I have them on all my power sports lawn care equipment and Prius and I never use this thing except to bleed brakes or if I'm going to leave the hatch open for a long time here at the house or whatever that plug is just staring at me when I open the hat so I tend to plug the charger to it I can plug a larger charger to that plug too but this I want to say the red label is the three amp maintain or trickle charger That's what I put on while I was doing my brake bleed the last two times two different cars all of them set up with this plug and it seemed to be fine of course my batteries are in good shape too so your battery's questionable that would also make for needing 10 or 15 amps before your battery starts to give out Guess I've been lucky.

 

I'd take that time with a grain of salt.

How long did you let it run before aborting?

 

I know of shops that won't even try to install used actuators anymore because of how often they failed the relearn procedure.

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I only generally do it to my own cars most of the cars that I work on for people they buy a new one in a box with the resistor just to save on all the hub bub. On my personal cars I've got timing nonsense to burn so not a big deal I've only had one so far that I had to change twice that's on the car I drive everyday practically since I got it right been stellar driving no problems

 

No I can do this so quickly about 2 hours I tried to used one first if it works then I have only spent $120 or something so I have another $1,000 or something to play with I've done it about four times I've only been bitten once and had to redo it and redid it again with the used part which is still out on the car today so on all three of mine I haven't had to pay the $1,400 or less for the part yet so I'll wait I have time I'd rather keep my cash but I also want to drive my car all of them.

 

No usually when I do this I'm taking the part off of the car that's donating the part to me I don't clear squat I just remove the part and then on my car I remove the part and I don't clear anything I don't do anything I remove the part and do whatever I'm doing with my fluid in the reservoir and then swap the part out and get everything set back on the car so that to be minimal brake pedal pumping usually I can get this right enough to where I need two strokes at each wheel and everything is done. Be that as it may I just like to try and get all this so that this minimal business to do after it's assembled. And then when I get ready to bleed and what have you All I'm doing is basic bleed do the fronts with the relays out or whatever put the relays in the backs will squirt when you step on the pedal and then I skip to the part where you're going to pump the brake pedal 30 times and 30 seconds that opens the valves in the actuator and that's it I don't mess with the linear valve offset or anything unless it's telling me that I have to do that by not turning the lights off or whatever the case may be and after all of that I clear the codes reset everything and see if it all works in the light stays off If it does that don't worry about any of that linear valve offset business at all that's usually how it's gone. I don't usually get new brake actuators.

 

So the new pump is like the 13 or 1400 dollar brand new dealer thingy with the resistor in the box and all that?. Well that's cool that generally will take to the new settings and do everything right off the bat as it's well brand new.

 

I replaced the resistor also. Not too difficult. You don't have to remove the dash. Just look for a you tube video.

Wonder may be there is any EEPROM codes needs to be cleared on the old unit in this case to make it work?

 

No nothing to make it work .