Thank you I dont want to work on the radiator lol but what else could cause the radiator hoses to be cold? We already tried another water pump, thermostat, and everything seems to be working well but the coolant will not flow into the radiator it seems. The degas bottle is under a ton of pressure after a few minutes of driving and coolant is leaking out of the tank overflow as its pressurized
First- just for reference: It's a Coolant Reservoir. There is no gas to 'degas' in the coolant. Second- if the radiator is clogged with 'leak-stop' , you can bet the heater core is also full of that crud. You might have some luck back flushing just the heater core hoses with the vinegar solution, but try to monitor the amount of pressure your using with your garden hose. 15psi is typical for cooling systems. You might be able to use 20psi on the heater loop. While you're tooled up to do this 'back flush work', you might as well get it set up to flush the radiator also. Could save you the work of replacing it, or not. You might find you have minimal flow through both units. ,,, Sorry.
If it's not flowing INTO the radiator, you have a blockage. Take the upper hose off and see if the passage on the block is blocked. Did you look at the ports behind the coolant pump? Maybe they are blocked. And look into the radiator, you'll likely see it all clogged. Seems like you ruled out the thermostat and coolant pump. A clog is the only other option.
Another job for a cheap borescope! If you had both hoses disconnected from the block you could try the ol' Lip Lock method of 'feeling' if it's clogged or flowing. Or try to get flow to go through it from a garden hose.
Thank you everyone. Could it be possible that there is air trapped in the system and the radiator and heater core is actually good and NOT clogged even though the coolant reservoir is over pressurized? Also when you refer to the upper radiator hose you mean the small upper corner hoses that are about 1" diameter or the 2" diameter hose thats near the bottom? I disconnected both large hoses and will try to get a garden hose to flush from the top smaller hoses through them Trying to see all possibilities before tackling this project as i see it is kind of a headache to swap radiators.
If coolant is being released out of the overflow on the reservoir (degas tank), the engine is overheating. I say you still have a problem with the water pump working properly. Start by monitoring the coolant temperature. See post #23.
With the larger hoses off the radiator, block the lower hose fitting. Then you could fill the radiator, then remove the lower hose fitting. The water should dump out pretty fast. Then try to use the hose to clear out every passage you can. When you fill it back up. Fill very, very slowly, a small account at a time. It will take a while, but by pouring slowly, the coolant will be able to push out the air. Fill to the B line on the tank.
The prius is currently without coolant as i was going to swap the radiators or try to clean mine out so i cant check the temp just yet. Id like to try your method with the radiator but im a bit confused as to what hose. There are 4 total hoses so did you want me to just fill the radiator and check that it leaks out without restriction? Seems like the small hose above the larger ones work together?
The story is Toyota made the Prius v/+/alpha for European and Asian markets through 2021. Since JDM engines are from Japan there is a chance some of them could be 3 years old. Of course they don't put them through the miles or loads we do so those gen3 engines are probably as good or bad as a 2016/17 US Prius v engine when they were three years old, generally excellent with no obvious problems or oil burning. By then Toyota had updated gen3 head gaskets, intakes, egr valves, brake boosters, inverters and ecm software.
Update for everyone I ordered another water pump as i tried to flush out the cooling system but the water pump started squealing loudly. Took the pump off but it looks fine. This would have been the 3rd aisin water pump and this had less than 20 miles on it. The radiator didnt look clogged and the heat worked on and off when i tried removing the T hoses into the heater core area which makes me wonder if its really the water pump thats not working correctly? Coolant temp remained cold at the radiator and nice and hot up by the T valve hoses after only about 10 mins of idle
Even the cheap water pump knockoffs last more than 20 miles. Probably closer to 20,000 miles. Hopefully the thermostat is working. If it was failed closed you would never get flow through the coolant reservoir. The T hose is on the output of the heater. It feeds the egr cooler and exhaust heat recirculating system. I imagine you get a lot of flow through the reservoir tank once the thermostat opens. Those two reservoir hoses and the coolant reservoir bypass the radiator. So you could have a blocked heater, blocked radiator and or continuous "air" being pushed into the coolant system by a bad head gasket leak.