Jumping With Portable Charger?

You are probably doing nothing wrong. The 12v battery is probably very low on charge. Do you have a volt meter to measure the battery?

What is happening is that the 12v battery is pulling all the charge out of the jump pack.

You can try disconnecting the negative cable off the battery and connect the jump pack to the negative cable, and put the positive jump cable on the positive terminal of the battery. See if you then can start the car. If you can, then remove the jump pack and see if the car keeps running. If you try to put the negative cable back onto the battery negative terminal , you will probably get a large spark, so be prepared for it.

 

... or pulling enough charge out of the jump pack quickly enough that the pack shuts down temporarily to avoid overheating.

The one I've got has a little alphanumeric display that actually scrolls BATTERY COOL DOWN 60 SEC REMAINING and counts the seconds down until you get to try again. A lot of others just have a few LEDs and you have to pore over the jump pack's manual to be sure what some combination of the lights is telling you.

 

A big spark is a bad sign when you are attaching the jump pack. They are designed not to spark.



It should not be outputting power at that point. That brand and most other lithium jump packs are designed to check polarity and determine your battery has enough voltage to be jumped before engaging the jump pack's output.

Perhaps you have overridden the protection which is designed to safeguard your car and the jump pack. Or just as likely the jump start module has failed.

From one review
Showed a full charge, but when I plug the booster leads in it instantly sounds the constant beeping tone and shows a red and blue light indication either a short circuit or a low battery or overheat on the unit. Both of the unit were fully charged? I went to use the second DBpower unit from my car and it seemed fine until i hooked it to a dead battery and it began to tone and show both red and blue lights as well. Both units no longer work as a booster.

 

??? Are you connecting to the Positive in the FUSE BOX in the engine compartment?
Are your headlamps on? The pack should be connected BEFORE turning it on.

 

This is an example of the kind of 'deviousness' described (favorably) in this post, where you take the car's battery temporarily out of the picture so your little jump pack has only the much easier job of making the car READY. Then, once the car is READY, and supplying its own 12 volts, you can put away the jump pack and put the car's battery back in the picture, and let the car do the work of recharging that battery.

In a gen 3, undoing cables on the battery buried in the back is the hard way. The easy way is to unplug the fat white cable in the underhood fusebox. Then connect the little jump pack to a ground and the fusebox jump terminal in the normal way. Once the car is READY, you can plug the fat white cable back in.

The post I linked above says I had never actually tried that in a gen 3 at the time of writing, but I've done it since, and it works just as described.

 

What's the update?

 

5 minutes is not enough to charge the 12v battery.
Get an AGM 5 amp or less charger, and charge the battery overnight.
12 hours would be good. If it still dies, you'll likely need a new Toyota 12v Battery.
Isn't that one under warranty?
You're wasting your time trying all kinds of "tricks". It's NOT that difficult.

 

How old is the 12v battery?

 

Pretty sure you misunderstood Brian's start it without the 12v battery strategy.

Regardless a 12v battery needs at least 30 minutes runtime to get enough charge to last 2-3 days. Which assumes the battery has 50% or more capacity left. All batteries lose capacity each year but daily drivers can go really low in capacity before you get your scenario.

Take the battery out and take it to an auto supply for free load (capacity) testing.

 

Skipping over the easy fixes like battery life and terminal connections are no longer the battery troubleshoot approach?!

 

Test it. With an electronic load tester (tests cold cranking amps). It’s likely a Frankenbattery at this point.