Hey Guys. Was changing my left control arm last night and had to grind out the ball joint nut because it was seized. Been fighting with this thing for two nights hence the grinder and loss of patients. I’m looking at the attached pictures and wanted to ask if you guys think I should get a new knuckle or leave it alone? I’m concerned because the surface is uneven and I’m not really sure what that is going to do the alignment. Thank you so much.
No man you should be able to slap that mess right back together no kidding shouldn't be any issue your issue is with the underside that's tapered look at your ball joint stud that you're putting up in there It's tapered All you've got up top here and what you've been grinding on or done whatever I'm ground them off worse than that with a wheel at $9,000 RPMs taking a quarter inch off of that thing Just messing around won't hurt a thing but your ball join up if you cut that much off it put a washer under it tighten it up here you're not going to need any of that Just put the stuff back together You're fine going to be no issues here with that I don't see anything else because the pictures are so close up these aluminum hubs will take quite a beating that's why the bearing and all bolts in doesn't press fit anymore but you should be good to go.
My question would be what happens is that part cracks open and ball joint just comes off like when at speed. Can you find a good used one at a recycler. Maybe with a good ball joint !
Yeah I've a bunch of em .ball joint don't go with this part . It drops in it ? Cracks from what ? That big piece of aluminum. Yes otay. The knuckle is going to break off in dreams or something. Is a funny supposition if you're into those sort of things.
There's one on eBay for $60 (used) It's probably the route I'd take if I were in your situation. I suppose you could try to level off that area with your grinder, and maybe put in a washer to get the ball joint close to the original height. That's not the sort of thing I'd do, but hey, it's your car. {It's even got the ball joint so you can try again).
Slicing that knuckle thickness in half wouldn't change geometry to speak on.just buff it smooth and reassemble .. nothing to see here at all .
You should have just ground the nut. You ruined the control arm. If you go with a junkyard one, you should get new bushings. Check on ebay for a new one. with the bushings. But bushings aren't really expensive. In the future, THINK of what you want to grind. The HOW to grind that piece without destroying other needed parts. Search youtube and watch at least 7 videos on how to grind off the part BEFORE you start grinding. As with any tool, learn how to use it before using it.
Thanks for your feedback guys. I’m replacing the front end of the Prius because I bought it in the auction and decided to buy a new steering knuckle from rockauto. The idea to put a washer in there and call it a day makes perfect sense so I’m gonna keep the old part for another Prius. These cars are like tanks, especially for NYC.
Everything that matters is on the other side of that tab All he's ground off here is a little bit of aluminum. Just put the control arm back up. And apply the nut and then hit it with your gun to get the hold the line up with the nut. Pin it .. and your long forget about it and probably never touch the part again while you own the car I have extras laying around here I've never had to grind one off but in rust areas and people don't understand what's going to happen with the ball joint they start with a wrench things like that You need to have it off have the bearing out and blast the nut off with a gun You can't dilly dally around or the joint gets loose and then it's just start spinning then you're talking about splitting nuts and grinding things and having a good old day
P.S. When you install the new ball joint. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN IT! Don't use an air gun to tighten it. That's part of the problem you have by not being able to remove it. Though there were more ways than the way you chose, butttt..... You can find the torque spec and only tighten to that point. Put some antisieze on the ball joint and threads also.
Absolutely agreed, I always use torque specs. this car has a has 90,000 miles, but the previous owner did not take care of the car at all. hindsight, 2020 I should have taken the steering knuckle to a shop and have them knock out the ball joint. No big deal though all done now.
My apologies I have one more question. With my luck, the new control arm with the ball joint from rockauto did not arrive with the castle nut, and I’m running out of time. Would a castle nut from AutoZone work? What do you guys think? Part number 90171-14013
I wouldn't be too concerned about that You can even buy a lock nut in that thread Don't ask me what it is right now 8 mm by something or whatever should be easy to look up on the parts breakdown of the car and AutoZone can just pull a ball joint off the shelf and match up the nut Castle head or not If you can get a locking nut that's just as well once you blast it on there you good to go this is not a loosening buy itself type item really I've had them just basic loctite it on with no castlehead but a castle head nut install because I'm don't want to pull the cotter pin out or whatever never had one come lose even on autocross cars but the part number should be available from AutoZone O'Reilly's what have you it is a pretty standard nut nothing really special about it castlehead nuts are not really a special d item.
If it's the correct thread and size, it doesn't matter. I'm certain they were made in the same place.
Entering that part no on Amayama, looks legit. Buy Genuine Toyota 9017114013 (90171-14013) Nut, Castle. Prices, fast shipping, photos, weight - Amayama
