Sold my daily to buy a 07 Prius 180miles Thought only needed hybrid battery- got rebuilt, works perfect but the brake light , abs, and buzz is on. Rear tire locks up when braking, others seem disengaged. Brake pedal is hard but works a tiny bit still stopping the car just unsafe. The parking break and caliber seem good. Couldn’t get an accurate wheel speed sensor read, prob just cheap multimeter. Is the abs pump replace/bleed/coding something a DIYer can do without the fancy tools? What all needs to be done after a abs pump replaced?
Sounds like your break actuator is failing you'll need a scanner that's capable of bleeding the brakes You can get one of those for $69 if you shop around It's a pretty easy thing to do just follow the prompts on the menu and pretty much have at it changing the brake actuator and doing it in some kind of methodical way really helped with the bleeding process and free up a lot of time. Or you can just slap it on there let all the brake fluid run out onto the ground and all that sort of thing and fill everything back up haphazardly and try to hook up the hoses under the hood and all of that and then you'll be spending hours trying to bleed the brakes and killing the 12 volt battery so you might want to get it to somebody that knows how to do this or has done a few I can save you some brake fluid which does cause money and a lot of time because the person that knows how to do this well can swap this out without losing all the brake fluid and the reservoir and on and on and on he'll know how to bleed this and how to put in the new actuator and a proper way and get the fluid to it and get it all to run up the rail while he's attaching the ferrules. Don't know what I'm talking about don't worry It's not a big issue The person doing the work I hope will.
i get what your saying, do you happen to know the name of a scanner that does the job and how long the job should take(in order to not kill the battery) when putting new abspump in couldn’t I could easily tighten down the 4 bottom lower lines leaving the top loose and fill the reservoir until comes out top line, pushing out any air. If so, between bleeding the pump and a 69$ tool is there any other important steps?
Not really the a u t e l a p200 It's a white looking little thing That's what you want it'll run you through the bleed system and the linear valve offset when you put the actuator in and when you before you remove the old one if you take three little clamps like you get at home Depot I think they're 0 to 2 inch or something and you clamp off all three lines coming out of the back of the reservoir so fluid stays put in the reservoir undo the main feed line on the actuator assembly goes to a clear elbow let it drain undo all of your f e r u l e s those are your brake lines on the actuator get all that mess out take it out like you did. When you put it all back in hook up the clear nipple on the side of the actuator and let the brake fluid go to it by undoing the clamp then you should see fluid start to come out of the bottom one first then the next one the next one and the next one when you see it start coming out of the bottom one you screw the ferrule in hand tight and proceed up the line as the fluid starts to come out of the next one the next one the next one and then the very top that pretty much has handled a good portion of the actuator as far as air and nonsense. Tighten all that up now release the rest of the clamps on the reservoir and brake fluid should be just like it was before you started minus a little bit. Now you'll go to your bleed procedure there is a section where you'll take out the two blue relays under the under hood fuse box to bleed the front with an assistant like you do a regular car pump pump hold you crack the fitting and so on then the relays go back in and you have your assistant press to brake pedal and you crack the rear right first here it pissing air close it back up have your friend push down one two three and hold again crack it you'll see some hear some air rather and see fluid start to come and you'll hear a pump running and that fluid will squirt you in the face if you're not careful You don't hear any more air close it up and go do the left. If you are not perfect right now you are real close If you think you need to run through the bleed procedure to run the stuff around the actuator and open the valves then you follow that If it doesn't tell you you have to put the linear valve offset and all that don't do it Just leave it alone all the lights are off everything working forget about it it's over this should not run your battery down It should have taken all the 15 minutes.
If you don't yet own a scan tool that will show you the trouble codes for your brakes, then right now finding out what the codes are is more important than shopping for a scan tool. You can find out what the codes are like this: Blink (a/k/a Flash) Codes – How to. | PriusChat A scan tool is great to have and you can take time to shop for one then, but in the meantime you will have the trouble codes now and know why your car is putting those warning lights on.
I did buy a little veepeek Bluetooth reader, it connects to a Bluetooth app. Oddly is doesn’t show any codes for brakes. Just p3193, which is fuel ran out/gauge broke. And poaof, engine failed to start, which hasn’t happened.
I’ve also done a reset thru the coder reader port with a paperclip. buzz, lights, wheel locking went away but came back after seconds start up.
If you did that, you were this close to finding out the brake codes your Veepeak scan tool wouldn't show you. That's what you do with the paperclip. All you needed to do was count the light blinks. Blink (a/k/a Flash) Codes – How to. | PriusChat
The Car Scanner ELM app should show you all the brake trouble codes. Try using it again if you still have the warning lights.
When I have used Car Scanner (pro), it would only connect to the ECM, hybrid control, and "some" HV battery codes and data. Need something different (like the Autel) for the brake control ecu. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
I got the brakes read finally. 5 codes came up all stems to actuator pump. My next step is to find a used/like new pump and hand bled the pump once in, then bled brakes like normal then wait for the codes to clear on own?
What are the 5 codes? How were you able to get the codes? You will need a high-end scanner to bleed the brakes properly.
I made a Facebook post looking for mechanic with abs scan tool. Wasn’t nothing fancy looking like a regular reader but did give brake codes. c0205- left front wheel sensor C1252 - wheel speed sens/ brake booster pump/ vacuum pump c1256- actuator failing c1344- fault in hydronic system c1391- brake fluid leak/ actuator pressure
