Prius 3 2014 204K miles

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by suntosh, Nov 21, 2024.

  1. suntosh

    suntosh Junior Member

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    I blew my head gasket at 186K. I did some bad things such as using sealant so that sealed a lot of things.

    Fast forward, I replaced with Jap Engine and have about 204K now . Once I went long distance for 100 miles and at about 100 mph, seems the car could go faster. For few months since if I push the gas hard for long, I'd get the engine heating icon on the dashboard. It would disappear intermittently.

    Its been a good year , since I have been using the car and the engine heating icon never appears , I make sure I dont push it too hard for way to long like 80 mph for 50 miles straight and its been running great. Should I stil get the EGR valves cleaned or should I worry about it coming back.
     
  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Witness Leader

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    Were the intake manifold (has EGR passages) and EGR components cleaned in the course of the engine replacement? If not, they’ll be more-or-less completely carbon-blocked by now, should definitely be cleaned, and recleaned at least every 50k miles.

    My 2 cents: neglected EGR cleaning is why you’re on a second engine.

    see top two links in my signature; on a phone turn it landscape to see signatures.
     
  3. suntosh

    suntosh Junior Member

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    I am in DFW and its hard to find someome do this dirty work. I am not hands on. Why not just change the EGR valve that should get you a 100k more easy minimum ?
     
  4. Eddie25

    Eddie25 Active Member

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    It's not just the EGR valve that needs to be cleaned it's the whole system, but to me it seems more likely to be related to using head gasket sealer than a clogged EGR system. The radiator or the water pump could be gunked up.
     
  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    nothing wrong with that, that's what a dealer would do
     
  6. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    The egr could be completely blocked and the engine coolant temperature won’t change. Odds are good you have reduced radiator capacity after using the sealant.
     
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  7. suntosh

    suntosh Junior Member

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    The sealant was used on the old engine and the new JDM engine should have zero affects of the sealant. I am sorted even for driving 100 miles so long I dont push over 70 mph.

    The water pump was changed while the JDM engine was placed and I checked that the radiator was good. For simplicity sake I'd just change the EGR valve and that as a measure of pro active maintenance should work ?

    Last year I also changed the inverter . The dealer will never advise cleaning the EGR valve or even changing it. There fault code that you get for this , they would always resort it to changing the inverter.

    Given the hrly labor of 150, it appears that changing EGR is a better solution because a new one is 100 bucks , cleaning could be several hours... :)

    upload_2024-11-23_11-16-41.png
     
    #7 suntosh, Nov 23, 2024
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2024
  8. Eddie25

    Eddie25 Active Member

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    OK, good luck with it.
     
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  9. BiomedO1

    BiomedO1 Senior Member

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    I do believe the original specifications of that car allows you to travel faster than 70 mph, without overheating.

    IMHO; you should save your $100 and plan on another engine replacement when you blow your current engine. Peace-meal solutions rarely work, in the long run - It can buy you some time, but that's it. ie. head gasket sealant and all the other head-aches they cause; but it's your money and car. We can only suggest what can fix your car permanently! It up to you to take the suggestion or reject it.

    Peace....
     
    #9 BiomedO1, Nov 23, 2024
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2024
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  10. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    A pressure test of the radiator does not prove it is not partially clogged up. A partially clogged radiator will work at normal loads experienced by legal speeds (except in central Texas on the 85mph tollway)

    The valve is not the egr component that clogs up. Most people don’t even clean it. It’s the egr cooler ($300 part) and the egr passages on the intake manifold ($200 part). Not saying replacing the egr valve and updating the ecm software is not a good idea but none of the egr components will solve overheating.
     
    #10 rjparker, Nov 23, 2024
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2024
  11. suntosh

    suntosh Junior Member

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    Oh boy . Okay so what will ?


    The main topic of discussion here—and in several related threads—is the idea that cleaning the EGR valve and intake manifold can serve as a precautionary measure to address overheating issues.

    Currently, I’m able to evade overheating by avoiding freeway miles at over 75 mph. Though the speed limit is 85 mph , but the traffic has gotten as bad as California ( daily influx of people).I am on a new JDM engine. However, traces of that sealant I used before swapping tghe engine remain, causing some degree of clogging. My concern is that if I don’t address this clogging now, it could negatively impact the newer engines I swap in the future, especially after accumulating another 50,000 miles.
     
    #11 suntosh, Nov 23, 2024
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2024
  12. BiomedO1

    BiomedO1 Senior Member

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    A pressure test will ONLY tell you if the cooling system leaking, since it passed - congratulations you don't have a leak. Why did you think that test would mean that your cooling system isn't clogged or obstructed?
    I'd start with the radiator and check the water pump signal for additional spin-up when she gets hot. Radiator and heater element passages are very narrow, so head gasket sealant is likely to clog them.
    Make sure your cooling fans are working also, prevents overheating in stop & go traffic - not so much at highway speeds.

    Hope this helps....
     
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  13. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Conventional Priuschat wisdom is a clogged egr system may cause a blown head gasket. Possibly because the egr passages in the intake are unevenly clogged.

    Overheating is rarely an issue with these cars unless the cooling system is clogged or the water pump is failing. If the water pump you used was not supplied by a dealer there is a good chance it was aftermarket or counterfeit.

    I would probably change the water pump and thermostat again unless it was from a dealer. While I was at it I would change the coolant.

    I would monitor the coolant temp in realtime to actually know what it’s doing. Normally the car using AC should run about 190f with occasional short spikes to 205f when accelerating up a steep hill. I haver never seen over 210f in my central Texas experience over the last five years.

    If you see the warning light flash it was at 248f or higher.

    If the water pump and thermostat does not clear up overheating I would replace the radiator.
     
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  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Witness Leader

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    One manufacturer of stop-leak “product” recommends 50/50 vinegar/water flush, presumably followed by straight water flushes. There’s a link in my signature, thoughts how to achieve 50/50 coolant/water ratio in aftermath of such flush. (On a phone turn it landscape to see signatures.)
     
    #14 Mendel Leisk, Nov 24, 2024
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2024
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  15. suntosh

    suntosh Junior Member

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    I hate myself for misquoting . So it is not the overheating but I do get an occasional 'Check Hybrid System'. On the dashboard the battery charging animation shows it has 70% bars when charged. Funny thing it goes away if I turn off the car for a couple of hrs.But it will come back when I go hard on the Freeway.

    I have just gotten myself the Veepak OBD 2 scanner. And this should work with the Dr Prius app ? Let check them codes ?[​IMG]
     
  16. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    Dr Prius app is not the best free app to read trouble codes. Download the Car Scanner ELM OBD2 app to read the codes.
     
    #16 Brian1954, Dec 7, 2024
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2024
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  17. suntosh

    suntosh Junior Member

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    The code is the dreaded P0A93 .It throws when the inverter heats up and the code vanished when the inverter cools down.

    Some shit goin on in the cooling system. On a Gen 3 what is the next step to find out if my inverter is bad or my inverter cooling pump ?
     
  18. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    you can look in the inverter coolant reservoir to see if there is any movement when the car is on
     
  19. suntosh

    suntosh Junior Member

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    No turbulance in the smaller coolant reservoir before and after I started the car. Also the coolant was below the 'L' marking.

     

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    #19 suntosh, Dec 8, 2024
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2024
  20. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    It doesn't always circulate. Only when it starts to heat up. Which is fairly quick.
    Since you are loosing coolant for the inverter, look for leaks. And any evidence of it
    overspilling the tank.
    You'll pretty much have to remove the inverter to replace the pump.
     
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