Hello gang, Long time member and 2nd gen driver. Bought my 2006 w 90k (changed the battery to a yellow Optima) and 6 years later, it has about 150k. It's been a great daily driver. The oil changes are regular and I've done the coolant pump. So in the last week, I've been getting the Red Triangle and the P0A80 - Replace hybrid battery pack, sometimes along with 3011 - Battery block 1 is becoming weaker. 1123 - Coolant flow control valve position sensor circuit high. The coolant level is good and there is turbulence in the small reservoir. The hybrid battery fan kicks on sometimes (weirdly at start when it shouldn't be warm) but turns off when code is cleared. I have not inspected the fan yet. It seems to still be driving fine. The only other thing it does is the dash goes black on occasion which I know is the faulty capacitor in the combination meter. The 12v battery showed 11.75 so I replaced it with another yellow Optima. Charged it up to 12.7/13.0 before installing. Took it around the blank and I still get the codes. Even get the code: 3013 - Battery bank 3 is becoming weaker. My commute is only about 30 miles round trip. Can I drive with the P0A80? I've read around and the combustion engine seems like it can handle it. But I always browse through the forums before posting and read the car could just shut off on me while driving? Just thought I'd ask the experts.
Short term yes; long term no. It will get progressively worse and eventually strand you. Now is the time to make arrangements for battery rehabilitation or replacement, or car replacement.
Should I return the 12v battery? I put the old one on the charger and it's at 12.5. Also what is the best place/price for hybrid battery replacement? Thanks. What is "progressively worse". I'd just rather not be stranded.
Well after you put it on the charger and you put it back in the car take it over to O'Reilly's or Menards and let them run the test on it and if it holds up then the battery still good when it was put in service I don't know and how close you are to being at that point I didn't can't tell from here I'm talking about the corrosion under the hood of the HV battery which is right behind the rear seat under the plastic tray that's where you're going to find lots of corrosion and nonsense.
I also wanted to add that on the display, the hybrid battery has been doing ok. Starts depleted but returns to FULL BARS in about a mile or two of driving. Did get a little leakage from the rear hatch a while back from rains but aside from that, all good.
Couple things I've noticed. The car now starts with the Red Triangle ️ and comes on maybe 5 times during my drive. At a stoplight, the car used to auto shut off. Now it auto offs and immediately starts again, then shuts off and... My dash has not turned back on in a few days. It used to turn back on almost everyday. Unsettlingly
Well you know how to fix that. Combination Meter Repair - DIY. I recommend Texas Hybrid's service for this unless you're handy with board-level soldering. P1123 - Coolant flow control valve position sensor circuit high, indicates the CCV is not moving when commanded. You need to diagnose that further to find the problem. A new battery (preferably a new OEM) will fix the other issues. You need to weigh up whether your car is worth the love.
this is some of what I meant by "progressive." You'll notice your fuel economy is dropping pretty low. The gaps between 'red triangle alerts' will get shorter, and the engine will run more of the time. I can't tell you if the end of the road is minutes or months away, but it's clearly time to do the hard math.
Thanks all. Guess I'll need to shop around for the hybrid battery. Which ones are the most reputable?
Toyota, and 2nd place isn't even close. A genuine Toyota battery just works- and might be the right answer if the rest of the car is likely to last 10 years. If you have doubts on that, a rebuilt hybrid battery might be the better choice. All the "rebuilders" are just taking old Prius batteries, disassembling them and matching up the least-bad bits into slightly fewer complete batteries and discarding the very worst few modules along the way. That's a valid repair- it just might not last very long. Look closely at their warranty terms because you are very likely need it. Also consider that the way you find out you need it is pretty much what you just experienced over the last two weeks, so you should understand what you're signing up for. Good luck!
Thanks for the help. It's difficult because I avoid the dealership as much as humanly possible. I looked around the forum and I see these prices. 1700 battery (1350 core charge, which I hope is refundable) 600 labor So that's $2300 + tax and I'm pretty sure its closer to $3k in my high cost of living area. I dont know if I can swing that. Especially with a failing combo meter and it burning oil. It's too bad. I really like this car...
I replaced the original 12v and everything started up fine w no codes. Naturally everything came back upon next start up. But my dash did come back on. 151,000 miles w original hybrid battery I'll probably just drive around town for a little and sell or donate it.