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Jumping Prius Prime with Hulkman Alpha85

Discussion in 'Gen 5 Prius Main Forum' started by bbowards22, Oct 25, 2024.

  1. bbowards22

    bbowards22 New Member

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    Hey All:

    Not sure if anyone has tried this yet. I didn't need to jump the car - just scoping things out. To me, there doesn't seem to be a clear place to attach the negative clamp under the hood - the length of the Hulkman pack being somewhat limited. Has anyone tried this? If so, where did or would you attach the negative clamp?

    Thank you!
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    any unpainted metal should work. manual might mention something
     
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  3. Gokhan

    Gokhan Senior Member

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    Any unpainted metal away from the battery. The idea is to avoid an H₂ explosion caused by a spark when you complete or break the circuit, as H₂ is concentrated around the battery. As long as you are in a well-ventilated space and you fan the battery to spread out any H₂, you should be probably OK with connecting it directly across the battery.
     
  4. bbowards22

    bbowards22 New Member

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    The manual references a connection point some distance from the fuse box - far too long for the Hulkman cables. As for an unpainted connection point, I don't see one other than some module that is to the right of the engine and slightly above it - I guess I need to figure out what the component is exactly.
     
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  5. bbowards22

    bbowards22 New Member

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    In this Prius, the battery is in the back (not sure if this is true for prior models). I could connect it there, but I would like to do it up front at the fuse box connection point (and avoid climbing into the back of the vehicle). The manual directs the reader to the connection point under the hood/at the front of the vehicle.
     
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Add a ground cable of an old school jumper cable to your jump pack kit, then you can reach whatever point.

    That said, I'd also pay some attention to avoiding the need for a jump pack.
     
    #6 Mendel Leisk, Oct 26, 2024
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2024
  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Another thought: look for a jump pack with longer cables?

    Check your prospective ground points too; make sure they work. You can do this with a test light probe, or the resistance mode (or continuity function) of a multimeter. Attach one probe to a very “for sure” ground, the other to prospective point.

    come to think of it, in Vancouver’s Stanley Park there’s a Prospect Point. :coffee:

    If you stay on your toes about battery maintenance, look into smart chargers, you’ll likely only be using a jump pack on other cars. ;)
     
  8. bbowards22

    bbowards22 New Member

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  9. bbowards22

    bbowards22 New Member

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    I see there is a Schumacher brand jumper pack, which I might just buy. It looks like the cables are significantly longer than the Hulkman brand cables (which is what I have from a previous vehicle). This is my wife's car, and she is not only not mechanically inclined, she is mechanically phobic. Consequently, I want to make this as simple as possible for her should she ever leave something on and have the need to jump it alone (which has happened in the past).

    There is an unpainted bracket with an unknown (to me) component attached to it on the right side of the engine. The bracket seems to be bolted onto the engine block, but I'm not a thousand percent sure.
     
  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Again, check for continuity, between a known good ground and the "prospect".

    For your wife, maybe look into a quick-connect system. You run cables from 12 volt positive and ground, to a socket, mounted somewhere conventient (maybe even in the cabin), and have the jump pack cables wired to a corresponding connector. Preferably one that cannot be reverse-connected.

    Here's our CTEK charger connection, very simple to hook up: One lead goes to a bolt in the corner of the engine bay (it was an empty threaded hole, from the factory), and the other to the 12 volt positive feed into the fuse box.

    IMG_5863.jpeg
     
    #10 Mendel Leisk, Oct 27, 2024
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2024
  11. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    they must have really changed the engine bay, gen 3 has all kind of ground points
     
  12. bbowards22

    bbowards22 New Member

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    Thank you for this - finding a prospect is what I’m going to do.
     
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  13. Hammersmith

    Hammersmith Senior Member

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    There's a chassis/body ground just below the fuse box where the positive blade is located. Considering the short length of the Hulkman's cords, that's probably where I would attach.


    edit: Actually, I might have to take that back after thinking about it for awhile. It's one thing to use a bare metal part as a ground, it's another to attach to an actual grounding wire without knowing where that wire goes. There's a (tiny)chance power could be routed somewhere it shouldn't go. Probably better to use the fuse box bolt right next to that ground wire if the jaws of the boost pack can be secured to it..
     
    #13 Hammersmith, Oct 27, 2024
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2024
  14. Gokhan

    Gokhan Senior Member

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    Just get a jumper cable as an extension cable as @Mendel Leisk suggested so that you avoid an H₂ explosion, which could still happen if the chassis connection is within two feet of the battery. The chassis connection needs to be at least two feet away from the battery.
     
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  15. Hammersmith

    Hammersmith Senior Member

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    Lol. Why would there be an H2 problem when using the jump point under the hood?
     
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  16. Gokhan

    Gokhan Senior Member

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    Alternatively, if you turn off the device before connecting and disconnecting it, there shouldn’t be sparks; so, you can connect the device directly across both battery terminals if you do that.
     
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  17. NMT

    NMT New Member

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    I used a jumper cable as an extension so the negative clamp could reach where the manual said to connect. It worked great!
     
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