Engine was installed in time. No slack in timing chain. But here is what I discovered... Piston #1 is set to TDC, cam marks and chain line up. The pulley shows two holes up and down, and 3 for timing. But the book shows the alignment of the outer 3 holes and the inner 2 holes in different positions. This is a brand new OEM damper pulley. My 2 inner holes are pointing up and down, like they should, but the outer 3 holes are not.
The damper on your car and the one in the drawing are not the same. The drawing has the "3 marks" on the right side of the hole, your damper has them on the left. There's nothing you can do to make your damper match the drawing, unless it's reversible and also has marks on the inside.
Looking at other used dampers, a lot of them don't match up, some are WAY OFF. Which is really odd because those outer marks are supposed to be for setting the timing in inspection from what I showed from the book.
The three drill points are not for timing. I am guessing that they are for balancing the pulley. The timing mark is the notch on the outside diameter of the pulley, as should in the zoomed in circle in the right side of the diagram that you posted.
Well it appears to be in time then. I have no clue what else it could be other than a bad cam phaser?
It is very hard to see the notch in the OD of the pulley in your picture, but it does not seem to be at TDC. Can you post a new picture taken more at the top of the pulley showing the notch?
That's correct those marks are for balancing the pulley they have nothing to do with anything to set timing engine or anything those three dots could be anywhere on the pulley If you get an aluminum light white one it won't have any at all I don't think they make them for the one NZ. But they do for other vehicles and I have them on some vehicles. All your concerned about is the notches that are ground on the very outer part of the v and of course whatever timing marks are on the chain and are on the sprocket looks like you're good to go You should be running and driving not worrying for the most part everything looks pretty spot-on.
Thank you for the pictures. Yes, it looks good. The earlier picture was hard to tell if it was at TDC.
That looks...ODD. The service manual shows setting the timing alignment using the colored links at 20° ATDC. If the crank was AT 0° I would expect the camshaft sprocket marks to be "perfectly" at 12 o'clock relative to the cylinder head surface. Judging by the small bolts on the front of the VVT actuator, it looks to be advanced - 1 tooth clockwise- from that. The "left" bolt appears to be mostly above the head surface and the "right" is below. It seems to match the diagram in the manual at 20°, but the crank is at 0°. Personally I have never had to do chain work on a Gen2, maybe someone who has can chime in on those pics. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
Here's what I mean. At 0° I would expect the intake notch to be at the yellow mark, and both red and blue bolt heads to be even with the head surface. The top bolt would in line with the green mark. Since the colored links look "ok", both cams could be off. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
I'm wondering if perhaps the timing gear or what is called the "cam phaser" has messed up? This is a photo of the timing before the engine was finished being put together. Now you can see on the exhaust cam, the dots are pretty much in the same spot, but the intake cam spot has shifted about 4-5 degrees to the right. You can see the slant of the "II" mark on the exhaust cam bolt head is exactly the same angle as it was before it was ever started back up. So what happened? It's obvious by the way things line up, that the engine didn't jump timing.
This is not making any sense. I took a pic of the cams lined up. The default orientation of the phaser is aligned with the the markings on the exhaust cam. But now, the dampening pulley is showing by way of the mark on it, that the timing of the crankshaft is not 0 anymore. Keep in mind, this error popped up after the engine ran about 30-45 minutes. It comes back on almost instantly. The P0016 was not originally occurring. It looks like the crank has moved about 8 degrees out of time. Here is the mark aligned when before the engine was installed. I rotated it a bunch of times to make sure it did not go off track. Now it would be explainable that the chain has jumped and has made the timing of the crank 8 degrees off, but that would also make the chain markings and the alignment of both cams off as well. This has not occurred.
There it is in pic #3. The dot on the crank sprocket is supposed to be lined up with the center of the colored link. You have it on the edge, so that's one tooth off (not a "full link" on the chain, just one tooth on the sprocket). Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
Back to the instant replay. The dot on the sprocket currently is yellow. The center of the link is blue. This explains the previous camshaft pics. I am not going to go round and round about how or why it takes whatever time to throw the P0016. This says the timing is off. Gotta go fix that then see. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
I'm showing 16v on the crankshaft sensor and the proper 5v reference on the cam. This...does not seem right?
I might have found one issue. Here is a before and after, after swapping crankshaft sensors. The peaks of the previous sensor are all over the place, you can see several spots where the peaks went outside the graph lines. The "new" sensor seems to be a much more uniform signal.
It may look off in that pic, but trust me, I spent a long time revolving that engine around to make sure the marks kept lining back up. The code did NOT originally appear after running it for around an hour.
mr_guy_mann called it in #15; the colored link is a tooth away from the crank sprocket dot. If there are 18 crank sprocket teeth (which I think is right), then that's a timing error of 20 crank degrees (equivalently, 10 cam degrees). The valve timing is 20 crank degrees ahead of what it should be. The VVT-i for gen 2 expects to be able to time the intake opening from 18° ahead to 15° behind. With one tooth off, that range ends up being from 38° ahead to 5° ahead. Part of that range overlaps the expected one, so at certain operating points the ECM might not be noticing a problem.
