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2013 PIP - Water pump?

Discussion in 'Gen 1 Prius Plug-in 2012-2015' started by 13PIP91326, Nov 20, 2024 at 7:45 PM.

  1. 13PIP91326

    13PIP91326 Junior Member

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    Plug-in Base
    Hello community,
    I can always count on good input and insight from our folks here.
    I have a 2013 PIP with 156K. A few weekends ago, the check engine light came on while doing 70+ on the fwy.
    It was another 40 minutes until I got home and seemed to have kept everything together. No smoke, no knocking...drove like normal.

    As soon as I got home, I plugged in my OBD reader and codes P0117 and P148F showed up. Unfortunately, it sat for 2 weeks because I was out of town. I get back today and looked under the hood and the coolant level was very low And evidence around the coolant reservoir shows it sprayed.

    P0117 - Fail safe mode
    P148F - Engine coolant pump over revolution

    My favorite local repair shop wants $900 to replace the Engine Water pump. My question is if you think that this pump is the correct "next fix" or are there other thoughts on what I have here.

    Today, I filled the coolant res and ran the engine (took 1/2 gallon of the coolant jug) The check engine light DID NOT come on.

    I have not done the EGR+ cleaning but have it on the to-do list because of time to get to the experts.

    Prior to this, zero issues (knock on wood) and would love to see another 50K from it being that car pricing is still crazy and the holidays are on the way. Thank you in advance.
     
    #1 13PIP91326, Nov 20, 2024 at 7:45 PM
  2. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    2011 Prius
    Model:
    III
    Yes, replace the engine water pump ASAP because your existing pump is going bad.
    I recommend only using an OEM pump.

    FYI, trouble code P0117 is "Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input". Not what you wrote in post #1.
     
    #2 Brian1954, Nov 20, 2024 at 7:54 PM
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Touring
    That's a little steep. I'm up in BC, Canada, see an Aisin WPT-190 from Amayama is $136 CDN. Delivery is "?", but based on past shipments, I'd guestimate around $35 CDN. So $170 CDN all-in, around $125 USD. If you want to see your price, just google:

    amayama wpt0-190

    Consider scoring the part yourself, and ask them for a quote on labour only?

    Doing the thermostat too?

    Food for thought: there are just the impellers for sale now, for around $20~30 USD.
     
    #3 Mendel Leisk, Nov 20, 2024 at 9:42 PM
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    And also, because of the way negative-temperature-coefficient thermistors work, "Low Input" for the coolant temperature circuit corresponds to a very high temperature reading. It can also be something else, like the sensor wires being shorted, but if it isn't, then the engine is off-the-scale hot.
     
    #4 ChapmanF, Nov 20, 2024 at 10:15 PM
    Brian1954 likes this.
  5. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    Nuts and Bolts with Tone gives a decent workup of your two codes and what to keep in mind with your Gen 3 engine and high coolant temp issues.
    One thing I especially liked was the chicken dance of getting into maintenance mode since I'd forgotten howto myself since I haven't practiced it in several years. (thanks Tone)

    I'm pretty sure there'll be some things in the video you might not understand about clips, disassembly, etc shown in the video, I didn't get all of it either, but since he's doing the whole process from a mechanics point of view, I thought it would be well worth sharing, and even some of the DIYers here might find a thing or two or interest.

    I'll second @Mendel Leisk suggestion for using Amayama to order the pump, if you can get it and they are still selling the assembly and not just the impellers ... ?

     
    #5 vvillovv, Nov 21, 2024 at 1:53 AM
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2024 at 2:04 AM
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