HI PriusChat, Found out one of the wheel studs in the front right passenger side is broken. Didn't realize when I purchased the car. I haven't replaced one before or even done brakes before. 1) Are the studs the same for front and rear? Ultra-power only has one, but dorman has both front/rear ULTRA-POWER 610244 Thread Length (In): 25.050 MM; Thread Size: M12-1.50 DORMAN 610266 Info Front DORMAN 610244 Info Rear 2) Is there notch on the shielding behind the wheel hub or do I have to remove the wheel hub. Seems to be one on the corolla: 3) Do I need to bleed the brakes (just taking the calipers off is needed) (not the pads)? 4) Some of the lug nuts seem to come with a washer. Will that prevent breakage again? 5) Did not realize there was so many types of lug nut seats -- cone/radial/mag/flat. Which one matches the oem the closest?
What kind of car is this? A Gen 2 Prius has a 5-lug hub, yours has 4, well 3-1/2. Removing the broken stud is easier than mounting the replacement stud. Remove the hub from the car, drive out the stud from the front to back with a punch or smaller diameter bolt and a hammer. To mount the new stud you'll need a press or a wheel stud installation tool. The lugnut you need is a mag style with washers. You mentioned some of the lugnuts on your wheels are missing the washers. Buy a replacement set and change them all. The stud broke because someone overtorqued the lugnut. Washers would not help, there there to protect the wheel's finish from the turning lugnut. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
@jamesprius most of your questions are about compatibility: just get replacement stud through dealership parts department. You won’t need to bleed brakes, due to taking off caliper. I would though, disconnect neg battery cable prior to lifting off caliper, And after reassembly tromp brake pedal a few times (take up excess travel) and only then reconnect neg cable. The car may have a propensity to pressurize something, and this can be disastrous when the caliper’s off the rotor. Talk to dealership service department too; considering having them do this. It’s not trivial, sometimes hub has to come off, air hammer may be needed, or cutting, depending on design. I’m a DIY duffer, have never needed to do this, would likely leave to the pros. Clarify too: what model year is this?
Hey it's a Gen 1 Prius - 2001. Specifically picked the gen 1 forum to post it. I posted that video to compare as it's a Toyota. I've since found a few for later generations prius. But none are really shot that well. And only 1 mentioned to disconnect the battery so @Mendel Leisk that was a good point. In this video they mentioned to pump the brakes before starting and remove two relays, you mentioned to do that afterwards so not sure. I guess the pressure could some cause the calipers not able to be fitted on the rotor or something. It looks like the difficult areas are: 1) Removing the 2 bolts on the brake calipers -- could be very tight. 2) Removal of the stud bolt without damaging the bearing. Ideally there is a notch on the heat shield behind so you can pull it out. Thinking of using a screwdriver with a hammer? Hopefully this one is not stuck too firmly, it broke in at just a little below flush. 3) Seating the new bolt -- need a special tool or using a bunch of washers and the lug nut to pull it into the rotor. 4) Avoid messing up the ABS. Looks like disconnect battery, wait 5 min, remove relays (not sure which ones on gen 1) pump the brakes, do repair, then reconnect battery. Torque looks to be 76 ft/lb for the lug nuts. Will remember to mentioned this to tire places in the future. I'll pull one of the nuts later to see if its' a mag style like @xliderider mentioned Videos:
I've replaced a stud or two on our Prime. Not sayin a Gen 1 will be the same, but I'll give a rundown of the basics so you can adjust for any differences with yours. 1: make sure the broken stud is furthest towards the front of the car before you break loose the lugs and jack the car. 2: remove wheel, remove caliber, remove pads and pad bracket, remove rotor 3: knockout broken stud. It's a press fit as you'll see looking at the new stud. It shouldn't be too hard to knock out the broken one, but ya never know. If the stud doesn't drop out after a couple hits with a hammer and punch of screwdriver, try some PB Blaster / WD40 and if all else fails some heat from a propane torch on the rotor around the broken stud. Fingers Crossed the stud pops right out after a couple smacks. 4: put the new stud into the hole, push it in as far as you can by hand, put one of the lugs on it and tighten it. I've never needed any washers to seat the new stud, but you may want or need to use them. You can also seat the new stud using the wheel, but if you do remove the wheel and check that the new stud is seated all the way to the back of the hub. 5: reassemble the rotor, pads and pad bracket, caliper and wheel.
Toyota would have you use a pressing tool to press the broken stud out, not knocking/pounding/smacking. This can be done without removing the hub from the car. Pounding is ok if you're planning to replace the hub anyway so you won't care what happens to the bearing. But if replacing the hub you get new studs anyway, so no need for pounding anything out of the old one.
Can't remove an old seized hub without banging the ever living sh*t out of it. Good info from Chapman, I never thought what might be happening to the bearing when striking a stud with a hammer. I didn't have any trouble replacing break pads in my '01 without disconnecting the battery (unlike the Hylander Hybrid or Prius C I own(ed), the '01 doesn't make any noise when the ignition is turned off). I did use a break caliper compression tool, but not sure it's needed if putting original pads back in.
Typically not needed. Unless you’re replacing pads of course. I’ve just used c-clamps to push pistons in. One of these plier style piston compressors would be handy though.
I've done wheel studs, but I've also tubed lawn mower tires. DIY it can be a pretty big PITA. Find a good, local tire shop. They do it in their sleep and with a lot less effort and fretting than you will do. It shouldn't break the bank.
I'll be sure to use some kind of press to remove broken wheel studs in the future. I"ve never had an issue tapping out a broken wheel stud on out car, but it's not 20 years old either. Thanks Chap !
Finally had a chance to get to this and found the brake caliper bolt (17mm) are impossible to loosen? Want to confirm that since the bolt is facing away from you when you are looking at the rotor that you turn clockwise to loosen right? Tried with a wrench, ratchet and as well as hitting the wrench with a hammer but can't loosen it. Sprayed it down with penetrating lubricant and will leave for some days, but still doubtful. At the same time afraid to make too large a movement and have the car shift off the jack stands. Any idea how to get these bolts out?
can probably the bolt with a lighter but how do you fit a breaker bar or impacter into the wheel well?
Turning the front wheels all the way to the right would give you plenty of space base on the pictures that you posted.
Maybe some joker put permanent lock-tight on the threads. Moderate torch application helps break the bond if that’s the case. And yeah, with bolts going in on the far side, it’s easy to get mixed up as to which direction unscrews. Any impact wrench available?
Thanks! Had to jack up the other side, but turning the wheel allowed space to use a breaker and got it off! Had the bent the flange behind slightly to get the new bolt in. It was a bit tough to to get the new bolt in, but ended using a wrench as a spacer to pull the bolt through with the new lug nut. Made a slight circular on the hub, hopefully it's ok.
