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How to deflect aluminum flakes when using a circular saw ?

Discussion in 'Prius c Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by CARSFAN4, Oct 19, 2024.

  1. CARSFAN4

    CARSFAN4 Junior Member

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    this question is for an experienced aluminum cutter person ( nonmetal work).
    I am trying to cut a straight line into the Prius c transmission block with a circular saw and a carbide tipped blade for aluminum. 7.25" circular saw with the blade of 56 to 70 teeth.
    I do this to try to plug this 1" hole in the transmission ( transaxle) block. I saw a Pic on YouTube how to glue aluminum bar with JB weld 24 hours adhesive.

    I need to save $ instead of spending them on a used 2015 Prius c transmission and expensive labor. LET'S SEE IF IT DOESN'T LEAK OIL !!

    So again my question is How to avoid falling aluminum flakes through the transmission hole which I need to cut straight and bevel it?? Thanks
     

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  2. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Did the damage cause a loss of transaxle fluid? or did it cause loss of inverter coolant? or both? Before you go damaging this further with a saw, you need to know if that "tubular" passage was used for oil or coolant to flow through and what the consequences may be if you block it. A circular saw is a rather brutal machine for trying to do precision work. If I had no choice and had to, I would use one of the vibrating saws with a metal cutting blade. If that passage is not critical, I would probably just take a soft metal or wood dowel rod of the right diameter, coat it with JB Weld and push it up into the tube-like passage, where it could seal everything. Once it's in there acting as a backer rod, you could slather more JB weld onto the exterior like a super thick layer of paint.
    If that 'tubular" passage is actually a coolant or oil flow path, I might try to use a correctly sized copper tube a couple inches longer than needed. Drill a hole in the side to align with the other hole/passage. then do the same thing. Cover it with JB weld and push it up into the tubular passage and position it so the hole I drilled lines up properly to complete the flow path. There should be a couple inches of tube sticking out that you can crush and solder to seal it, or trim it and solder/JBweld on a cap. Then slap some JB weld all around the tube area to completely seal it.

    The general idea is to install a plugging device if it's not a critical flow path, or install a repair sleeve into the inner diameter if it is a flow path. That's just general ideas, hard to give precise info without actually seeing it in person. Not the most ideal method of repair, but it will do in a pinch. Do a little reading up on installing repair sleeves. The hole looks like it may have some 'crush' damage, which could require running a drill bit up into it to true it up, but that's no big deal, and if the wall thickness is decent, you can make it match the OD of the sleeve better.
     
    #2 TMR-JWAP, Oct 19, 2024
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2024
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  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Do you mean “oscillating tool”, one of these:

    IMG_5801.jpeg
    (Recently got one myself, finding it very handy, and relatively easy to control.)
     
  4. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    This is amazing, all the best!
     
  7. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Yeah, I had glanced back through those threads and thought I had seen that he mentioned "hybrid engine oil" and also that inverter coolant had drained. I'm just not clear on which or both. It looks likely to me that vertical "tubular" portion intersects the horizontal opening to create a flow path. Without being there or having a handy example to look at, idk. If there's no other damage, it's just a matter of repairing the flow path, and that can be done relatively easy using a 'custom sleeve'. A shop isn't going to do that, but a good DIYer sure can.

    I'd also be a bit concerned about those cracks in the background. They look like cracks caused by the passage being slightly crushed to an oval shape. If those cracks are in part of the casting that physically separates two fluids, then the repair gets a lot more complicated.
     
  8. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Well, if it helps I read that the transaxle used in the Prius c doesn't have a water cooling loop. The WS ATF is the only fluid present in that version of the trans.
     
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  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    ... and even in the gen 3 liftback, the coolant loop is just a superficial loop on the side of the case, and another loop inside next to MG1's stator.

    This looks very much like the oil passage up to the oil pump in the end plate of the case.
     
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  10. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    Call (GM) gasketmaster and ask them how much ? If you need a circular saw to fix that I'm pretty sure you'll be sorry you didn't call.
    If you're serious about a pipe and JB - damn - you can take a look at how shops put helicoils in head while the head is still on the block. Keep in mind the saw blade is gonna shoot flakes into the case if you cut all the way through the case, so worrying about flakes getting in through the hole is pointless. The flakes will be in there unless you know what you are cutting into where ever you are cutting.
     
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  11. CARSFAN4

    CARSFAN4 Junior Member

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    Thank you for your advice. It is a hole into the transaxle gear block through which I lost all the transmission oil. Probably I will have to ask a Prius mechanic what is the purpose of the machined 1 1/2" diameter. I am not sure that it is the oil drain out passage when you change the oil because I looked online for the position drawing of the oil input filling and the oil drain. I am attaching the photo with the Crack and the hole. The 2nd photo I took it from the sideways and I am trying to figure out what is that pink line more like an adhesive ?? I will need to get back underneath the car to identify it if there r no cracks around.
     

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  12. CARSFAN4

    CARSFAN4 Junior Member

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    Thank you for your advice. It is a hole into the transaxle gear block through which I lost all the transmission oil. Probably I will have to ask a Prius mechanic what is the purpose of the machined 1 1/2" diameter. I am not sure that it is the oil drain out passage when you change the oil because I looked online for the position drawing of the oil input filling and the oil drain. I am attaching the photo with the Crack and the hole. The 2nd photo I took it from the sideways and I am trying to figure out what is that pink line more like an adhesive ?? I will need to get back underneath the car to identify it if there r no cracks around.
    Question: Why is this hole at the lowest point of the transaxle? Could it be possible that they designed by purpose to gather all metal sediments from the used gears??
     
  13. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    That is the exact question I was hoping you could answer for us.
    Why is that hole there?
     
  14. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Questions like that are the kind the New Car Features manual is for, which wouldn't be a bad place to look with a situation like this if you haven't already.

    Toyota Service Information and Where To Find It | PriusChat
     
  15. CARSFAN4

    CARSFAN4 Junior Member

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    Yes u r right, it is an oil flow path which allows the transmission oil to bounce back towards the gears. I read also about oil resistant Viton rubber end caps which I could use to plug in the cylindrical hole to block any aluminum flakes flying inside the hole. Maybe it would be better first to use only the circular sanding blade just to even the rough hole edges and polish a little the surface so the JB weld adhesive would bond evenly with the aluminum plates to cover completely this irregular Crack shape.
     
  16. CARSFAN4

    CARSFAN4 Junior Member

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    thanks 4 your advice. I called Gasketmaster and they said that they don't work on transmissions. But when I described it further he suggested that I should first sand the hole edges and than just apply directly the JB weld on the top of the hole all around. He Said that there is no need to cover the hole with 3 small aluminum plates.
    He claims that the adhesive once applied will start to harden and will seal all the hole. I don't know what to decide now: 1. Use 3 aluminum plates to cover the hole by bonding them with JB WELD or
    2. Follow GasketMaster suggestion to apply only JB weld directly to cover all the hole.
    Which one of these solutions will work best?.?