Prius Gen 3 2009 Engine stops after 10 Seconds

Yeah you'll find the work ups for all three of those codes here repeated about I don't know I'd guess maybe 400 times pretty much the engine won't start and so on you'll be troubleshooting this for that code at least like a regular ice engine car without the hybrid so for some reason you're not starting fuel ignition compression something but yes sir it is a pain.

 

It's not really that the engine is stopping after 10 seconds, it's that the engine is failing to start. It uses the HV battery to spin the engine for a bit and when the engine fails to 'catch' with gas it shuts itself down and throws the P3190 and the P0A0F.

The problem then becomes that the HV battery drains itself (with no way to charge) on every start attempt until it becomes a new problem which may be where you're at, if not very close.

Ultimately you'll have to find a way to charge the HV battery, then begin a typical "no start" diagnosis. It's probably difficult to find a shop with charging capabilities (or desire), so you might be up a creek. Building a charger and hooking it up isn't all that difficult, but requires a decent amount of DIY knowledge and ability. If that's not in the picture you may want to search for a hybrid specialist in your area to see if they can do it.

Do you for sure have gas? DO NOT trust the gas gauge. Are you POSITIVE you have gas?

I'm ignoring the P0A0D because that's the code for the interlock (safety connector) on the HV battery and I'm assuming you have that sorted because I don't think it would even attempt to start without that properly connected. I could be wrong.

 

For starters, stop trying to start the engine.

Was there any recent maintenance?

little things can do it, disconnected PCV hose for example.

 

Yes check you're fuel pump . See if it pumps . Maybe a few seconds then stops delivering fuel . Stops pumping etc .

 

If you weren't in Australia I'd offer to sell you my charger.

You need a Meanwell HLG-80H-C350A, you don't need most the stuff in this diagram for a basic charge. Really just the charger, D1 and R1, a digital multi-meter, and a fuse if you want to be safe. You can use "fork test lead" connectors to carefully slide the + and - into the respective battery connectors without having to mess with them. As long as you don't over-charge you don't need to worry about a fan.

As for the diagnosis, you could remove the air box (keep the MAF connected) and spray brake cleaner in the throttle body while the car attempts to start to see if it affects it. If it stays running while doing this then you know you have a fueling issue.

As Mendel suggested I would strongly consider no more attempts until you have it charged in order to avoid any damage to the HV battery. Also the charger I suggested needs a certain sitting voltage (128) to even start charging the battery, as far as I can tell.

And as always verify any advice you receive for yourself.

 

Yes I have the Venice hybrid charger It's get set on the second stage I think it's 300 volts and generally when I connect it to the battery side of the relays It rarely runs for about maybe an hour maybe two and the pack starts noticeably warming up and then by the instructions from Venice hybrid when the display on the charger makes no changes for five solid minutes remove the charger That's basically your resting charge you're going to hold to keep on pumping juice into it is just going to heat it up and do nothing I've watched this go on seems to work pretty well I've only had to do this once and it wasn't because I was keeping starting the car it was just I had a battery I wanted to charge and see what would happen The Venice charger charges at 2.4 amps on the 300 volt setting or 2400 milliamps seems to work very well but you don't want to be heating things up