What is the size of the 2024 Prius LE dashboard speakers?

This was not my experience when I did my initial swap for the dash speakers.

They were the first change to the audio system I made. So everything else was stock. I used the red wolf adapters and the bargain bin 3.5" kicker coax speakers (4ohm).

I installed one, played some music while I did L/R fade to hear the difference vs stock and it was by far MUCH clearer sounding than stock. No loss in volume or any other issue noticed with it. Completed the second one, installed some sound dampening material that I cut out in shape of the speaker cover, all good.

In fact the only time I ever had an issue with polarity swap was when using a passive LOC that had a weird interaction with the left channel and the wires needed to be swapped. Later using an active LOC that swap was not needed. I'm thinking defective LOC design on the first one I used.

 

Dash and doors are connected to the same L/R channels as you've discovered.

The rears are on an entirely separate feed AND the rear output channel is terrible. Do some googling and you'll find that Toyota basically neuters the rear output feed in many vehicles and it's not even worth tapping into for amplifier input unless you have a nice LOC/DSP to handle the differences so you can retain front and rear fade.

Right now I have my dash speakers at -3dB and they're on their own channels separate from the doors. I have my front and rear doors joined and at +2dB. Used my tablet + Friture + good mic to check output and it's pretty level across the spectrum. I kept the rears active because I wanted that bit of bass kick from them that you feel in the seat.

 

There's an easier way than what I did. There are passive crossovers you can wire in before the dash speakers and SOME of them give the option of some basic gain control. Search B089ZZMFCP on amazon for an example. It gives you a -6dB and -3dB option for wiring tweeters through the crossover. Do your own research. Of course wiring through a crossover also means that crossover will be filtering out parts of the audio (like it should). That one I mentioned affects audio below 3500hz for tweeter output which will taper off the volume of frequencies below that.

But to be fair, you don't want lower tones coming from the dash speakers. I promise. The other day just for shits and giggles I disabled the crossover on the dash speakers (they're coax and have a built in capacitor that is a bass blocker for the tweeters, just like what the passive crossover above does) and yeah I hated how it sounded. The overlap with what my doors were playing sounded wrong. I'm not even an audiophile, just average at this stuff; I'm sure someone with a trained ear would hate it even more.

What I did...
I installed an amplifier and DSP. I'm only running budget gear for amp and DSP. I've got some nicer toys on my wishlist for if/when I feel like moving up or when these die.

But the front L/R channels feed into my DSP. From there I output 5 channels: Dash L/R, Doors L/R, Subwoofer (channel summing is done in the DSP for the subwoofer).

Those feed into my amplifier, from that the doors are fed from a single set of L/R wires and that signal into the harness that goes to the doors. My door speakers are effectively wired in parallel this way.

But yeah at the DSP is where I set the gains and crossovers and some very basic timing adjustments.

The picture is just me testing stuff, it's been organized and cleaned up since. Sits under custom made trunk flooring.

 

Give the crossovers on Amazon a shot, worst is that you don't like how it sounds with the -3dB and/or frequency cuttoff and you can return the crossover for a refund.

I just pulled the trigger on some CDT Unity 8s to replace the cheap coaxials in my dash. Looking forward to EQ'ing them and seeing how they sound.

As far as the door speakers I can't give any suggestions on what would sound good with the factory head unit and no amp/dsp.

 

Long ago when I did car audio stuff at best buy, if you weren't getting an amp best bang for the buck was the good quality brands but not much more than the basic offerings. Something like Alpine S, vs Apline R - since to really get the benefit of a higher tier speaker you do need to run more power through them. Otherwise lower power and dirtier power from non-dedicated amps didn't bring out the best audio response. It just wasn't cost effective to get much more expensive speakers. But it was worth not getting bottom of the barrel speaker pricing from JBL, or random no-name speakers.

 

Honestly, it may be better just to have a crossover and tweeter/woofer combo for front speakers like they do there. But you'd be losing a lot of overall in car amplified power doing it that way, so they do need a speaker amp as shown.

 

So this thread has kind of gone off rails and really belongs in the audio section.

"But then you may need find a place to put the crossovers" Put them behind the head unit in the dash. There's room back there. How do I know? I have a pretty beefy line output converter living back there.

"drill a separate hole to route the wires to the door which I don't want to do" Negative, ghost rider. You just do two short wire runs to the tweeters from behind the head unit where the crossover will live. So for the tweeters you will NOT use the factory wires. You will use custom wires that you feed through the dash (use a mechanics flexible claw tool, it will make it SO MUCH EASIER). No drilling. Those custom wire runs go to the tweeter part of the crossover. How do I know this? It's what I did. Tweeters are on their own wire runs. Doors are still using factory wires. You use amazon part B09DTY8PMD to create a harness that you can cut into. Stereo FRONT OUTPUT goes to crossover INPUT. Crossover WOOFER OUTPUT goes back to the harness you cut and completes the circuit. Congrats, you've just made no permanent changes to the vehicle. No holes have been drilled and no vehicle wires are cut (you only cut the wires of the harness you bought).

"I think the easiest solution for me is to change out the door speakers to aftermarket ones" Unless you're buying a matched component set you'll need to EQ them to get them in line with each other. 88dB sensitivity speaker paired with 93dB sensitivity speaker means that 93dB is going to be considerably louder than the 88.

"I really want to do that but am waiting for some Youtubers to show us how to safely remove the door panels. My car is less than a month old..." It's really not difficult.

 

3 screws total.
1. behind the door handle(pry off the little panel)
2. inside the armrest(push the little plastic panel down)
3. underneath the window switches(pop up the switch and remove)

Be careful not to overtighten when putting the screws back in. All three screw into plastic and can easily be stripped out if power tools are used.

 

This isn't too hard to be fair. It's pretty normal for a brand to have tiers/series codes that all share similar frequency responses and sensitivities. So you just need to make sure you're getting a pair of speakers that match in that way.

Though, if we're going to this much trouble of taking out the dash, buying multiple speakers etc. You are just better off getting one of those T-harnesses that integrates a small aftermarket amplifier into the factory wiring, and just running component speakers for both front and back so you can also address the audio balancing that greatly favours the front speakers in modern toyos.

 

I feel like you guys are over complicating things and just half reading stuff.

This really isn't a complicated situation. "taking out the dash" It's literally just 4 small panels that pop off. 2x speaker grill covers, 2x small panels that cover the head unit. That's it. No tools required side from a small thin plastic panel pull tool to assist with the speaker grills.

"one of those T-harnesses that integrates a small aftermarket amplifier" So with what you propose now he's adding an amplifier and now he has to power it which means he needs to run power up to the dash from the trunk. Can't safely tap into the head unit 12v because we have no idea how many amps the head unit will pull at heavy loads and having even a small amp on it like the PRV QS400.4 might overload the 12v tap since it AND the head unit will pull from it.

Right now his tweeters are too loud. His best bet with least amount of effort AND which puts him in a position to upgrade in the future is to do the separate tweeter run, use the extension I mentioned to take the front stereo output from the head unit and feed it into a passive crossover that has gain options for the tweeters. FROM the passive crossover he hooks up the new dash speaker wires to it, and he hooks the front doors to the midwoofer outputs on the crossover.

That solution also means that the dash speakers and the door speakers now have a complimentary crossover point to each other.

There's no drilling, there's no damaging exiting wires, there's no running long power runs from the trunk, there's nothing complicated happening. AND it gives him the option to join the rear doors with the front doors if he wants to by wiring the rear doors to the same outputs on the crossover that the fronts are connected to. He just takes the rear door wires from the harness extension he's been cutting into and puts them in that.

It's also the cheapest solution. The cost of a tool (or stick with tape), about 8ft of 18 gauge wire, 2 passive crossovers (one for left, one for right), and the harness extension. Add in some cheap wago style connectors to really make it easy which you can get like 50 for $10 and done.

 

Or add an inline resistor.