Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v

I took the car for spin on the highway and the p0012 code came back. Looks like I have some reading/watching videos to do... Ok- found this video on the subject that I thought was pretty useful:

In it, he talks about the common problems and fixes:

1. Oil: is too old, is too low, or wrong type used. I had done an oil and filter change yesterday. I put in the 4.4 quarts of the 0W-20 synthetic (Mobile) like recommended in the manual. The oil level also looks correct on the dipstick.
2. Check the variable valve timing control coil (Toyota call it a Camshaft Timing Oil Control Valve). It's on the top, left (passenger side) of the engine. The harness is plugged in and all the way so I decided to swap it with the Gen 3...

Hmmm... I don't think that's supposed to be bent like that. The one off of the Gen3 is straight.

I believe that something heavy was placed on top of the engine because when prepping the engine I noticed the #2 coil had a cracked and bent connector body compared to the rest of the coils.

I figured that I'd just run the engine later on and see if I got any codes, then replace it, but I didn't realize that something else (VVT cam sensor) was also f'd as well. On a side note, I also had to replace the crank position sensor on the back side of the engine, b/c it was also just a wee bit f'd.


So, I popped in the VVT Sensor, fired up the car in maintenance mode, and I cleared the codes. After a bit of rough idling, the idling smoothed out and the p0012 code didn't seem come back! Yay. I then took the car for a spin on the highway...

Yep, P0012 is solved, but I ended up getting P0403 on this test drive... ugh. So close!

Update: Damn! another connector not plugged all the way in!

 

Another test drive later and no codes! Amaizing! I'll check in later to post anything noteworthy.

This thread and @Ragingfit 's videos have been a godsend! I also got some bracket inspiration from this UK guy's video

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Speaking of brackets, here are a few that I created for the engine. All of them were made using aluminum angle & plate from a local scrap metal place (it's SUPER inexpensive to get all types of metal there). I used a few woodworking tools, a hack saw, desktop drill press, and table saw to cut, shape and bend the parts into existence.

• Below the water outlet to support the harness:
  
• On the front, Driver's side, top corner to replace the now missing 3rd mounting point for the air box and add another place to attach the vapor hose:
  
  
• on the top, rear, driver's side of the engine (crossing over the vapor pipe) to add a mounting spot for the harness side of the connector to the engine coolant temperature sensor that is tied into the bleed port:
  
  (sorry for the not so great pic- didn't feel like taking off the whipper assembly just to get another pic)

And now for the obligatory finished engine-installed shot:

Redoing the headlights is probably going to be my next project.

 

Congrats! This is so awesome

 

The engine I received does have this coolant hose around the back of the engine block. This hose connects to the hose from the egr cooler. They come from/go to? the water outlet with temp sensor at the block. There is a flow control valve and additional temperature sensor which I believe controls that valve (gray body). It appears the valve has a minimum flow when unpowered and when powered opens for maximum flow. I've ordered a water outlet with regular hose connection instead of flange connection for that control valve, then I can just connect the hose directly to the water outlet.
The part number is 36133-37100(i think), saw it on a random yt video from a guy in the UK. He ran into overheating issues which was resolved by removing this valve. Assuming due to lowered flow because it is a normally closed(min flow) valve.

 

Yup- that's the same UK guy's video that I posted above where I got inspired to create my brackets. He just covers a bunch of the changes that he did for his Prius in the vid. Good info in a relatively short video.

Update on my engine swap- 110 miles down and no issues, no check lights. The exhaust smells a little rich, but I'm assuming the ECM will eventually adjust it's parameters to the new engine (let me know if otherwise). I haven't really noticed any increase in power or fuel economy yet, but it does just drive like a Prius should.

Question for you all- what did everyone do with their old engine?

 

I was the only Prius owner on earth to take a perfectly good 100k mile engine out that didn't burn oil or have HG problems and install a Gen 4. I sold mine to a customer of the shop for a song, because he was looking for a used good condition engine and I was looking to upgrade.

 

Are you mass producing the prototype coolant hose yet? Great Idea.

 

Engine swap update:

I got everything hooked back up and filled. I put all the electrical connections on except the ignition coils per how ragingfit's did it in his videos.

At first sounded a little rough, then smoothed out, then I shut off. Guessing this was the oil getting distributed?

Then plugged the ignition coils in and started it up. Got error codes for each cylinder ignition coil, P0351, P0352, P0353 and P0354. obd2 app lists it as primary/secondary circuit malfunction. Cleared the codes and just shows up as archived with permanent status.

When I started it, it sounded good but with what seemed to be a little whining noise. After half a minute or so, it started to surge at a little higher rpm. So, I just shut if off. When shutting off, it makes a slight pressure like hiss noise as if the pressure of something was being released/reduced as it shut off.

I did use the gen4 vacuum switch, but wasn't thinking that would matter.

Here is a link trying to catch the whining sound and surge. Any ideas greatly appreciated!

 

Update in case it is useful for someone:

Got the engine running smoothly without the high idle lean, surging and got a pump over rpm code. I believe air in the coolant and evap hose leaks were mainly the problems. It is smoother than the old engine. Does not seem to run up the rpms as fast on hills.

OBD readout shows egr valve is working, but seems like it sticks at the bottom and does not spin back up as well as the newer gen4 egr valve.

What I did was:
1 - I added the coolant thermostat jiggle pin mod (removing it).
2 - When refilling the coolant, remove the temp sensor in the hose above the egr cooler. Once fluid came out, then screwed the sensor back in (easy).
3 - replaced all the original gen3 evap hoses in the engine compartment even though my old engine was only showing in the 8% range lean. I was able to use hoses off the gen4 jdm that I bought.
4 - cleaned off the fuel injectors. Just cosmetic I think.
5 - reseated and tightened the intake manifold, egr pipe, throttle body and intake air hose
6 - replaced the gen4 engine pcv with the one I replaced on the gen3 earlier this year

I made some flow diagrams to verify I had everything okay. Will try to put in cad/clean up and post, but fall/deer season coming up, so might be a while.

 

“Evap hoses”, do you mean the ones running fuel vapour from gas tank to intake manifold?

 

Back in stock!

Toyota Prius GEN 3 Engine Temperature extension to GEN 4 Engine

 

Customer with a Lexus CT200h attempted to do the Gen 4 install himself. After running into a wall with problems he decided to tow it to our Shop in Buena Park, California




Now it’s time to do our magic to get this car running again

 

All done! Car started smoothly with no Pending engine codes.

If anybody needs help with the conversion you can always contact our shop (Hybridpit) located in the land of Knott's Berry Farm and mediocre traffic, also known as Buena Park, California

 

4th gen air box and attachments? 3rd gen EGR I think?

Have you resolved the reported overheatinig issue? Does it actually exist, or was it a coolant hose routing mix-up, or?

 

Equipped with 3rd Gen air box and EGR. The Owner tried to do the install with a 4th Gen EGR pipe but ran into an alignment issue by not bending the return pipe from manifold correctly.

We have not ran into any overheating issues with our installs. It might be our special tool that we use to purge the air out of the system and in return fresh coolant is pumped in.

Success except for missing parts that was not included inside the car from disassembly.

 

It seems there are several ways to run or discard the secondary coolant loops and selector valve gen4 had which gen3 did not. The layout and control of the coolant system in the gen3/4 system is a variable.

 

It's not even that the new coolant line and selector valve are things gen 4 had and gen 3 did not. They're things gen 4 in Europe and Japan had, while gen 4 in the US did not. They've been turning up in transplants when people get a gen 4 engine from the Japanese domestic market.

 

Here we are with another Gen 4 transplant brought to our Shop due to poor hesitation on acceleration and a check engine light.

The other Shop installed the Gen 4 EGR cooler and pipe onto the Gen 3 exhaust header by extending the return pipe back to the EGR cooler.

So we worked our magic and installed a clean 3rd Gen EGR cooler & intake manifold at no cost! We also threw in a new intake manifold gasket and PCV hose because that is the right thing to do.

Due to the poor routing of the return line from the thermostat this engine was steps away from overheating. This includes the non cleaned intake manifold that was transferred from the old engine.

If anyone is located in SoCal and needs help with the swap, just give us a call and we can help you out. HybridPit (855) 492-4440









iPhone ?

 

That’s a hella pipe extension weld…

 

Yes indeed!