After removing the left headlight assembly and disconnected what appears to be the low beam, noticed the plastic connector is melted / burned. The other connectors seem fine. Not sure what would cause it? I think the headlight is still working though. How do you replace this? Need to solder a new one on?
Bad connections heat up the connectors and burn out bulbs faster. You can get a new connector and short wiring pigtail at an auto parts store or Amazon. Usually they come with crimp connectors. You cut yours out and put the new one in. These are for H4/9003 bulbs I have used on gen2s. Get good ceramic connectors.
Here's a source for that connector: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lyn666-H4-Pigtail-Headlight-Socket-H4-Connector-Wiring-Harness-Female-Plug-14AWG-Ceramic-H4-9003-Pigtail-Connector-pack-of-2/1619721499?adsRedirect=true
Thanks what does the other end for look like for those? I found these (see attached) with tabs. I guess you just loop the wire from the otherwise and wrap it a few times, without having to purchase the crimp connectors?? This video showed stripping, using crimp connector, wrapping with heat shrink and then wrapping w/ electrical tape. Didn't not realize there was so many steps.
Anyone try this before? Just pushing the wires out of the replacement connector, do the same on the old one and just insert into the new one without any cutting. Not sure if possible on the H4.
Yeah I have those on my bike those are the way to go if you're keeping halogen H4 they're like old outlets from long ago
The ones with the push pins on the back of the spades they're made to convert from h8 and h11 and all that business and things similar. The point is though you're old connector is melted so even the brass pins or whatever they are in the connectors the metal has been heated when you pull it out you'll notice it may have lost its temper or whatever you call it doesn't hold well to the new connection usually better to cut it off and use a Scotch lock connector or similar type of connector and you're good to go for longer than the car is going to last you usually.
The existing harness is big and complicated. Just cut out a few inches of the existing connector and wire and crimp. Crimp is not soldering but the crimp connector could be a heat shrink butt connector with built in solder. If this seems too difficult have a shop do it. Otherwise you are risking continued problems.
I purchased two different sets and could not get the 3 prong connector to fit into the bulb connectors. the black one here sorta fits, but i have to put a good amount of force to fit and it doesn't seem to go all the way in the orange one does not fit at all, however if i loop the other end of the orange spade connectors it can fit it into itself. the oem one slips on pretty easily. i noticed that the oem one doesn't use the female spade connector (looks like just a metal/plastic slot) so perhaps that's why the bulb connector male fits on so easily. did not realize there would be so much variability in the female spade connectors that's inside the connector housing
^ That and placing the wrong bulbs in. Loose connections = higher resistance that generates more heat. Also those "brighter" halogen bulbs that generate a whiter light draws excessive current, something else that will fry a plastic connector. If you want to keep the 'white light' effect, switch to large heat-sink LED bulbs. They will last longer and draw less current. Hope this helps.... PS. that picture of ceramic connectors, while convenient, isn't going to fix your underlying problem - if those connectors are loose and waddled out. Those wires needs to be 'spliced into' the existing harness to fix your underlying problem - not just plugged into loose existing connectors..
Actually I guess it turned out to be the cheap chinese connectors. Purchased some connectors at the auto parts store and they fit fine. Just need to shrink them now. I tried using LED bulbs on my other car and they fast blink. I think you need some kind of controller for those?
Led fast blink as turn signals yes as headlights just fine I use Sylvania real mirrored bulbs in my turns . Which I never use anyway
IMHO; They're all cheap Chinese connectors, now-a-days - they're usually the lowest bidder when parts contracts pop up. They're like early Japanese products - they get better over time, as they perfect their chemistry and procedures. As far as flickering is concerned, the old ones from 5-10 years ago used to do that and the problem was worse in DLR mode. They're pretty much flickeer-free now when your headlights are on - NOT DLR. I had LEDs in my 2012 Prius C, they flickered in DLR but was fine with the headlights on. I actually liked the fast flicker in DLR, more noticeable during daylight driving. The car was silver and I always had inattentive drivers trying to change lanes, on top of me. That pretty much went away with those LEDs. I was working swings at the time, so they were on 70%-80% of the times I was in the car. You may also want to check the voltage at your connectors. A bad relay or ground will also cause flickering of LED headlamps. Halogens and incandescence bulbs doesn't care, you just get a dimmer lamp. Hope this helps....
