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Gen2 Would Not Start - Now Starting - Clock Reset

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by ydpplqbd, Oct 23, 2022.

  1. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    First time ever, tried to start my Gen2 but the car would not respond to the Start button. Eventually, my Gen2 started (after repeated attempts) and came into "Ready" mode. And, now my Gen2 is starting properly after this incident. Curiously, the clock has been reset to "1:00". As if, the battery cable had been removed from the 12V battery.

    Any suggestions to fix this intermittent problem would be appreciated. My gut instinct is to check 12V battery connections at the 12V battery.

    PS HV battery was at six out of eight bars according to the MFD (before and after the incident).
     
    #1 ydpplqbd, Oct 23, 2022
  2. fotomoto

    fotomoto Senior Member

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    Cold weather brings reduced battery performance and low tire pressure warnings. And threads about them. ;)

    Give the 12v a thorough check.
     
    #2 fotomoto, Oct 23, 2022
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  3. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    "My gut instinct is to check 12V battery connections at the 12V battery."

    That would be my first check. Also test "at rest" voltage (everything in the car turned off). Fully charged AGM battery should be 12.6-12.8V. Should be the same at the battery terminal as well as at the underhood fusebox "jump start" point.

    Might want to have the battery load tested as well. (Me, I would just replace a 12V that was questionable or if it was more than 5 years old).

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #3 mr_guy_mann, Oct 24, 2022
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  4. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    Ok. quick update on this issue:
    1. Initial posting was three ("3") weeks ago:
    2. Since the initial posting, this problem has arisen on two ("2") more occassions: a.) about one ("1") after initial incident*; and b.) today (as I write this post) this problem has occurred again (and had not reset/fixed itself as it did the two ("2") times prior).
    3. Today, I am more prepared. I have a DVOM with me, charged 12V battery (separate and apart from GEN2 12V and HV batteries), and jumper cables.
    4. Today, when this issue arose, I measured voltage at the jump point (in the underhood fusebox and strut stud). The voltage measured 0VDC.
    5. I then attached the jumper cables to the 12V spare battery and to the underhood jump point and strut bolt/ground. Spare battery voltage measures 11.75VDC. With jumper cables attached, jumpoint and strut stud also measures 11.75VDC. However, GEN2 continues to be completely dead despite jump from the spare battery.

    I am unable to open hatch as the car is completely dead (and, thus, SKS and electric locks are inoperative). After initial instance, i checked GEN2 battery connections, corrosion, moisture, etc. Everything was good. IIRC, GEN2 12V battery was anout 13.4VDC with GEN2 in READY mode and 12.8VDC when GEN2 was not running.

    Current, GEN2 12V battery is 13 months old. It is a DEKKA AGM battery. As mentioned above, I am unable to measure battery voltage at the battery as the hatch is locked.

    Thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
     
    #4 ydpplqbd, Nov 12, 2022
  5. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    Further update, I had the latest incident in the Harbor Freight parking lot. After prior post, i purchased electrical clips from HF. By clipping with HF electrical clip to underhood jumpoint, i was able to get a good connection between spare 12VDC battery and jumpoint and body ground. After good connection was established between spare battery and underhoid jumppoint, my GEN2 sprang back to life And, I just drove it home. Onboard GEN2 battery is fully charged. It appears that 12VDC onboard voltage is NOT getting to the underhood jump point. I have not had an opportunity to review the schematic yet. Any thoughts on this issue would be appreciated.
     
    #5 ydpplqbd, Nov 12, 2022
  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    did you check the neg to ground connection?
     
    #6 bisco, Nov 12, 2022
  7. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    There's many connections at the 12 volt battery in the rear to reach the front jump point.

    But Kudo's to you for measuring at the front jump point because that's all that matters as far as what the engine is seeing.

    First get a flashlight and see if the battery is sitting in water. Common issue given how the G2 has such a bad leak issue at the cracked corners in the hatch.

    You may just have a bad battery. Never heard of a Dekka. If it was me I would replace that battery. At the very least I would take the battery out and check carefully in the battery well that its not severely corroded from previous rain events. Could be rotten in there you would never know till the battery falls out.

    Buy a new battery then sand down the inside of the battery clamps and grease them and remove the ground jump cable and sand down its connection point to the body and grease it. Sand the new battery posts and grease them.

    Before installing the new battery with the old battery out connect the positive post clamp to the body with a jumper wire. Then measure the front jump point in OHMS mode to ground. It should read close to a dead short or maybe some small impedance like 5 -10 ohms in cable loss. If thats what your seeing then your good the main B+ cable under the car is intact and fuse is intact because be aware there is a 100 amp fuse in the black plastic fuse assy that's connected to the positive battery post. Pull that fuse out make sure its not corroded. Grease it.

    Here's my battery system grease up. Has worked perfectly for 15 years not any corrosion or 12 volt shenanigans: .
     

    Attached Files:

    #7 edthefox5, Nov 12, 2022
  8. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Nine Gen 2s have now been or are currently in my stable. Not even one has had any corrosion at ANY 12v connection point in the trunk area. Plenty of the common water issues, but no 12v corrosion. There has been the common corrosion problem on most of them at the connector by the HV cooling fan. If I had to replace a 12v battery for someone who greased everything up like that? I think I'd pass.
     
    #8 TMR-JWAP, Nov 13, 2022
  9. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    That’s good the fact you don’t like it tells me on the right track.

    And seen hundreds of corroded battery connection issues on this site.
     
    #9 edthefox5, Nov 13, 2022
  10. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    12V battery checked out under load test. Next thing that happened, triangle-of-death ("TOD"), P0A80, P0315, P0316 and HV battery fan running on high constantly ( after warmup).

    I am at almost 300k (290k to be more precise). As a result, I went the el cheapo route. And, purchased a rebuilt/reconditioned HV battery from the Ukrainian battery rebuilder; Alex (917-397-5474), for $600 including Alex doing remove and replace of HV battery. 6 month warranty. GEN2 now runs perfectly again.

    PS Previously, I purchased a rebuilt/reconditioned HV battery from Alex 39 months/90k miles ago.
     
    #10 ydpplqbd, Nov 26, 2022
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  11. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    all the best!
     
    #11 bisco, Nov 26, 2022
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  12. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    A little over 3 years is not too bad for a reconditioned battery. A good battery reconditioner is hard to find, though.

    I do also wonder if an annual mileage 300% higher than the average has something to do with your battery's longevity?
     
    #12 dolj, Nov 27, 2022
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  13. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    Deka is a brand for East Penn manufacturing (one of the few actual battery producers in the US).

    They make batteries (including AGM) for Napa and Duracell (automotive).

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #13 mr_guy_mann, Nov 27, 2022
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  14. prairiecomm

    prairiecomm Junior Member

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    We've had this happen when 12v tested fine. Solution: crawl in the back and wiggle the white / red tab(s) at the battery that connect to start button, etc.
     
    #14 prairiecomm, Oct 13, 2024
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