I "think" the valve-only can be replaced; dealerships were doing valve replacement for a while, then seem to have knocked off (because it wan't helping much, if any...). I suspect if it was possible they'd be the ones to do it. Maybe you don't need to remove wiper/cowl then? I've only removed the valve/cooler as an assembly, then separated them on a workbench, suspect it's easier. If you're concerned about coolant spill, just drain a couple of quarts before you pull the hoses off the cooler; it'll leave it high and dry. You're pretty sure your valve is defective?
Yes, as it was not fully disassembled Due to problems opening two nuts That holds the two halves of the valve. I had no vice to hold the(damn thing.)sorry.
Yes, as it was not disassembled Due to problems opening two nuts That holds the two halves of the valve. I had no vice to hold damn thing.
The two Phillips-head screws that hold the stator onto the valve can be notoriously stubborn if you don't have a hand impact driver (the kind you just hold in one hand and apply a steady twisting force, and bop the end with a hammer). With such a tool, they come out with no trouble at all; a couple light bops will do it.
I used a similar hammer-powered impact; with a hardwood shim to protect the studs: I replaced the original screws with M5x16 socket head cap screws, to facilitate removal next time. They're readily available on Amazon, commonly used on bicycles for one. I did add washers, to more closely match the originals. They take an Allen-Key style driver: Put a little anti-seize on the threads, and snug them firmly. (If anyone local to me wants a few, I've still got 48 of them, lol.)
