Auto-folding mirrors and turn indicators part numbers

Here was me driving around a few weeks back after I had just finished getting the dash out.

 

Slow progress is being made(I'm normally only working on it an hour or three per day).

Both mirrors auto fold and the turn signals work. The button to manually fold/unfold still doesn't work, but I think I figured out the current problem and will try the fix tomorrow(I think the switch just needs an additional ground for the fold button, so I need to tap the wire right next to it - that's how it would be done from the factory as well - although the factory tap would be buried in the harness).

I've got the driver-side puddle light installed and working(waiting for dark to see what it looks like). The passenger-side is all wired up and just needs the actual light installed into the door card; maybe 15 min of work tomorrow.

The reverse-linked mirror is a lost cause. It's just not meant to be installed on the right hand side of the car. But all I need to do is disconnect the reverse signal wire to disable it. A few seconds to disconnect, and a couple minutes to tape the connectors out of the way.

I need to tap the front footwell lights for the new rear footwell lights, but I need to be double sure the wiring kit I have will be long enough to comfortably reach everything before I cut it up.

After those things, it will be time to start putting the dash back together. It will probably take a few days, but I'm hoping the main dash pad will be back in tomorrow. Reassembly of a very modern car is massively easier than disassembly. (watch TCCN's recent video on the Highlander $1800 panoramic sunroof repair for the reasons why)

 

The North American Prius main body ECUs and power distribution box assemblies(basically the brains and interior fuse boxes) have the necessary wiring and programming for both options(turn signal and folding), but none of the other wiring is in the car. That's why I ended up taking the dash out; it was much easier to access everything.

Also, the NA mirror housings can't take the turn signal. The only way to add it is to buy completely new mirrors. And all those mirrors have the folding motors and come with wiring harnesses that get you into the door. (mirror harness >> door harness >> new wires to ECU/PDBA/junction connectors)

I'll do a bigger explanation when I finally wrap everything up, but I'll describe the turn signal addition.

First, it helps to know what a junction connector is. Basically it's a splitter. Within the connector, some or all of the terminals are bridged together so one feed wire comes in and several branch wires come out. And typically not all expansion terminals are used. For example, one of the junction connectors I was dealing with had 22 pins in two rows. The top row of 11 was all bridged together, and the bottom row was bridged 4+3+4.

So the left and right turn signal feeds come out of the PDBA(fuse box) and go into a junction connector. Then, one branch comes out and goes to the front signal light and one goes to the rear(per side). Well, because most Priuses have mirror signals, they left pin slots open in the NA junction connector. I just added new terminals in the pins in the existing connector where the non-NA cars have them, then ran new wires from there to the mirrors. (Well, I ran the wires to the footwell connectors, then added new terminals/wires into the door harnesses.)

If someone wanted to do an easier, half-assed job, they could find the wire running to either the front or rear signal lights(whichever is easier to access), tap them, then run a single wire all the way up to each mirror. Functionally it would be the same thing, but it would be a sloppy job and make it harder to service or troubleshoot down the road by a tech. With my way, it still (mostly)follows the Toyota wiring diagrams.



As for removing the gauge cluster(combination meter), it's actually pretty easy. TIS isn't working for me at the moment, but I think it was 3-6 trim pieces that surround the comb. meter and are just clipped in place, then four 10mm bolts holding the cluster in. So a nylon trim removal tool and a 10mm socket/nut driver are all you need. And those four bolts might also have Phillips heads(technically JIS), so a screwdriver might do in a pinch.

As with all things, prep carefully and take it slow. Get access to TIS for a couple days. Read everything thoroughly several times before you start and save everything you need as pdf files if you're not going to have TIS access for the whole project. The Toyota repair manuals and wiring diagrams are far, far from perfect, but they're not all that bad once you get used to them. And I haven't found anything in the dash that wasn't a clip, phillips screw, or 10mm bolt/nut, so at least tools are minimal.

 

Ahh, almost done. Apparently I mislaid a couple screws, and I need to find a slightly larger screw for one I stripped out(it's important), but the car is mostly back together with no current* error codes. The center console still has to go in, but that needs to wait for the new screw. The missing screws are for the dash speaker, so I'll order those Monday, and they can be installed whenever.

The mirrors fold automatically and also by pressing the button, the turn indicators both work, the puddle lights work, the wiring for the rear seat footwell lights is in and working but I need to finish cleaning out the back seats before I can attach the lights to the bottom of the seats(the back seats and cargo areas have been filled with parts, tools, and supplies), and the new red dash trim and lights are in and working.

The only thing I failed at was the reverse-linked passenger mirror. I'm 99% sure it physically won't work when installed on the right side of the car. I'm leaving all the parts in the door so I don't have to tear it apart again, but I disconnected the reverse signal wire so the module is effectively disabled.

A trip to the big hardware store tomorrow for a new screw, and I should be able to get the center console installed within an hour. At this point, I'm thinking I'm going to have one extra part left over, and I'm okay with that. It's one of the clips that a portion of the wiring harness is taped to. I think it was supposed to go deep in the drivers door, but it might be supposed to go somewhere in the dash. I'm pretty certain the lack of it won't cause a rattle. And I'm also pretty sure I fixed a preexisting rattle, so it'll be an even split if I'm wrong.

So now I've got the only Prius HEV in the US that has the OEM red dash light and fully functional mirrors. I feel special.

I'll throw up some final pics and video tomorrow.




*I've got something like 35 inactive error codes(lol), but I hope to get those deleted whenever the car goes in for the recall fix. They're all from driving the car while parts were disconnected.

 

I finished the very last mods just now(mounting the rear footwell lights) and the car is being dropped off at the detailers tonight for ceramic coating and interior detailing(I did the engine bay detailing myself last night). After I get it back Thursday or Friday (and she's nice and pretty), I'll take some pics/video of everything.

There's actually a non-zero chance it might have a background appearance on a YouTube video fairly soon. Just after getting it all back together, it was announced that TheCarCareNut is putting together a YouTuber and fan meetup in Chicago on Aug 10 to show off the restored 600k mile Lexus LS 430. It's going to be at Jason's(formerly the owner of Chicago Auto Pros) place at The Bays at Car Supplies Warehouse. LegitStreetCars, savagegeese, and Shooting Cars are currently scheduled to be there, but others may be added. I took it as a sign from the heavens(lol) since I've always thought about taking my car to TCCN for routine service and an inspection of my work. So I'm seriously considering making the trip. It's only over 10 hours of driving there and 10 hours back. lol

If I go, the car might end up in the background of a couple videos as I assume at least TCCN and LSC will use the opportunity to make content for their channels. Probably won't get any closeup time, but it should end up as an "extra" in the background.

If I actually end up going.




As to Mksky's comment, I completely agree that this isn't for most people. I would personally do it again, but I enjoy this sort of thing(research, prep, learning/applying new skills). I absolutely wouldn't recommend it for the average owner. If the wiring was already present, it would be a completely different story.

A person could maybe do it without removing the full dash pad, but it would be very easy to slip into a half-assed job that way. It would work, but you'd be adding a bunch of new possible failure points(wire taps) and it could make future electrical fault diagnosis difficult as the wire taps wouldn't show up on any factory wiring diagram.

Would I pay someone to do it? Probably not unless I was super rich or something. To do it the "correct" way(dash out), you're probably looking at a couple thousand just in labor. To have it done semi-affordably, the installer would need to take a bunch of shortcuts. Feels like a no-win.

 

The rear lights aren't all that hard to add depending on whether you follow the instructions or not. I didn't like the official way of adding them, so I modified it into a method that ended up being easier.

Official: You disconnect the factory plugs at the front footwell lights. Then you take the wiring harness they give you and wire it into a couple points under the dash for power(including one that's only on Japanese Priuses). The harness includes an on/off switch that you install by drilling a hole in the dash. Then you run the harness to the existing front footwell lights and under the front seats for the rear lights. You also have to zip tie a section of the harness up under the dash(the single harness connects the switch and all four lights together). (On the plus side for you, you could use the harness pretty much as intended if you want, as it's made for a RHD car. Even if I wanted to install it correctly, I would have had to modify it to make it LHD compatible.)

I didn't like the idea of installing a switch in the dash that didn't match anything else. Also, I was worried that going that route would lose the high/low intensity of the lights when the gear is shifted in and out of Park. So I changed the install.

My method: All I did was cut up the supplied harness to isolate the rear seat portion. Then I cut the factory wire at the front footwell lights and spliced in the rear seat segments. The pros are that all four lights behave exactly as they did before: full brightness in Park, half brightness in Drive. The con is that they are slightly dimmer than just having two lights because the current is now shared. I'm not thrilled about doing it this way, but the negatives of the official method were just too great for me. I'm not overly worried about stressing the power as these lights are super low amperage/wattage.

I haven't had a chance to see how well they light up the rear footwells, as I installed them just this morning and dropped off the car tonight before the sun went down.

 

The progressive turn lights are intriguing, but I made a commitment to myself that absolutely every change I made to my car would have a Toyota part number attached. With the exception of my Ryobi impact wrench and tire inflator in my emergency kit, I've kept to that commitment. So no aftermarket turn signals for me, no matter how cool they look.

 

First off, there's no plug and play option that will work. You'll have to do at least a little wiring. I think the total price will be around $500USD for parts if you're currently in the US. Maybe more or less if you're currently in Europe.

I assume you're currently in Europe?

If so, probably just buy the entire mirror assemblies for a European spec car and then tap into the turn signal feeds that run to the rear lights. I know the left hand side rear turn signal wire runs along the bottom of the left door. I believe the right side rear turn signal wire also runs on the left side in the same harness.

Don't worry too much about LHD or RHD when you order the mirror assemblies. As long as you have the original parts for your mirrors, you can swap the mounting brackets. My car is LHD and I ended up buying JDM assemblies(RHD). I had to take my LHD mounting brackets and use them to replace the RHD brackets on the new mirrors. The actual mirror "pods" are the same no matter LHD vs. RHD.

You're going to end up with motors in your mirrors no matter what. The US mirror housing cannot accept a turn signal. The only way to get the turn signal is to completely change mirrors. And every mirror that has the turn signals also has the motors. Now, just because you have the motors doesn't mean you have to go to the trouble to wire them in(and it's a big trouble). So if you just want to leave the motors unwired and treat them like manual mirrors, there's nothing stopping you.



The "correct" way to wire the turn signals is to use the junction connector behind the dash on the driver side near the fuse box. It might be possible to access it without taking out the dash, but it'd be tough. A junction connector is like a splitter. The body ECU sends one wire for each side(L/R) turn signal to the junction connector. From there, a wire for each side leaves to go to the rear turn signal lights. There's space in the connector for another set of wires to go to the mirrors(this is what happens in all other cars that have the mirror turn signals from the factory). I did it this way because I already had to pull the dash to do the wiring for the folding mirrors(and because I go overboard trying to keep things perfectly stock).

But if all you're going to do is add the one wire for the turn signals, I'd just cheat and tap into the rear signal wires somewhere close to the driver footwell. So you'll need one wire to go from the driver footwell up to the driver mirror, and a second wire to go from the driver footwell across to the passenger footwell and then up to the passenger mirror. (plus ground wires you can get from anywhere convenient)

Again, the "correct" way to get the wire from the footwell to the mirror would be to pull the entire door wire harnesses and add it, but for one or two wires, I'd cheat here too and just run them direct; leaving the door harnesses alone.

The mirror assembly will come with it's own harness. The problem is that the connector on the mirror harness will not fit into the matching connector on the door harness. Two choices here. Either buy the correct connector and terminals for the door harness and modify it to work with the new mirror harness(what I did), or cut both mirror harnesses and splice the old end onto the new mirror harness. You'll end up with wires left over on the mirror harness side, but if you're not wiring in the motors, it won't matter. Doing it this way is a bit of a hack job, but it'll be 10x faster and easier than doing it the "correct" way.

If you're currently in Europe, these are the part numbers for the mirror assemblies. You can contact a Toyota parts supplier to see what the prices are.

These will work without swapping the mirror mounts:
87910-47720 RH LHD
87940-47700 LH LHD

These will work if you swap the the mounts:
87910-47820 RH RHD
87940-47750 LH RHD

If you're currently in the US, I'd look at ordering these from Japan:
87910-47770
87940-47750
I think these currently run about $200 each, plus maybe $50 S/H for the pair.

When searching, there are three main options that divide them up: Heat, BSM, and PVM. You need the first two options but not the last. I think I've got the correct part numbers, but I can't guarantee them. Toyota doesn't make figuring out which is which all that easy.

Let me know if you want more info.

 

There are four mounting points for the turn signal(2 screws, 1 alignment post, clips on the end). None of those are present on the US mirror body. Additionally, there are points on the US mirror body that interfere with the turn signal. At least one of those points is an attachment point between the mirror body and the #3 mirror cover. So if that point is cut away to allow the turn signal to fit, the mirror cover will no longer fully attach.

I've got the parts in front of me right now because I thought I could do the same thing you're considering. I ordered the turn signals, #3 covers, and the motors(which came with wiring harnesses). When I got all the parts and tried putting them together, I found out it wouldn't work and I had to order all over again.

You could try contacting JP-CarParts or Impex-JP and seeing if it'd be a lot cheaper to order the Japanese versions. (Note: Impex is owned by Russian living in Japan. I could absolutely understand choosing to go with JP-CarParts instead because of that.)

And don't worry about the wiring; there's plenty of room for one or two more wires. The video cable that goes through that same hole in cars with PVM is much bigger than a couple 20-24ga wires for the turn signal. And if you buy the full mirror, it comes with the new harness already installed(with all the wires and the connector you need).

 

I can get you the info, but you need to be a little more specific about where exactly you want to tap into the flashers. The wire color can change from section to section in the wiring harness.

The wiring diagram of the turn signal circuit is attached.