Rusted rear caliper slide pin question

What kind of grease? You need lithium soap-based glycol grease.
This is from Toyota


You should clean inside of caliper and with slide pin already cleaned I'd say you're good to go.

 

Yeah I put mine in an outdoor dishwasher that's got scalding hot water running to it It's just used for car parts it's an old Bosch predominantly water and cascades still go through it today and it will bring things out of there whistle clean You've got to put metal preservative on the business as soon as it comes out as rust will form almost immediately usually I have new rubbers for all the boots and things whether they're Toyota branded or not they'll work and won't have bad reactions with the rubber grease

 

Spray it out with brake cleaner, then a rag with a small screw driver to clean it out.
Then dry it out and lot's of grease. I much move freely and easily. You may have to
replace the guide pins.
And while you are at it, you should do all 4 calipers....

 

Yes, good to use.

FWIW I recall reading that the maintenance of lubing these pins is a good thing.
Yet when to lube? Maybe every 30,000 miles, at a min. 60,000.

 

I believe it's 50,000 to "check and lube as needed".
But since you are 95% of the way there, it's only a minute or two to remove it
and clean it up.

 

In the Toyota USA Warranty and Maintenance Booklet there's a couple of statements about brakes: every 5k miles (presumably in conjunction with tire rotation) they say to "visually" inspect the brakes. This is replaced, at 30k, 60k and so on, by a statement to "inspect brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs" (the first a hold-over from second gen rear drum brakes).

They don't go into any more detail, and the Repair Manual is not a lot of help, say having a section specifically for brake "inspection", what it entails. But anyway, just talking among ourselves, perhaps:

pull the calipers off every 30k, clean/lube and reassemble the pads/shims, clean'lube all contact points between caliper and pads, and just move the caliper pins in/out, see that they mover freely and smoothly. Then every 60k, also pull the pins, clean and relube.

Brake section of Repair Manual attached, for reference. Lots of info, but again, no specific section saying this is what you should do for brake inspection. It's more of a complete tear-down, which I doubt happens much.

 

I had the same problem. Rust only matters if it gets in the way of the operation of the brakes. It is perfectly fine sanding off the rust and putting it back so as long as it operates. You also aren't sanding it to the point where structural integrity is concerned.

However, rust particles left over will likely lead to rust again. In the end, I just replaced mine with an brand new aftermarket Carlson caliper pin. About $8 and I will have to worry less about the brake seizing again. My labour cost to changing the brakes is more than what a new pin is worth. The pin can also cause uneven brake pad wear in which case you have to replace more parts.