P3191 and P0A0F/204

sounds like i should just put this other used tank in... the quickest way to get bad stuff out.... It should also alleviate the pump and regulator unless they are shot in this replacement tank...

 

The Gatorade bottle shows how the fuel looked during the first flush, and the water bottle has the fuel from the second flush. I'm considering doing one more flush since Marvel Mystery Oil is meant to be used in the fuel tank, just not in the quantity that was added. The fuel still doesn’t have that strong, pungent smell that gasoline usually has, if that makes sense.

I plan to do another flush tonight and will probably get some 100 octane race fuel to help dilute any residue left in the tank. When I filled the throttle body with gas the first time, I noticed a little bit of white smoke coming from the exhaust, like you'd see on a cold SoCal morning start—though not as much as you'd see in a Chicago winter.

When I first start the car, I immediately put it in Reverse to try to get the ICE to kick on and stay on, along with the Auto A/C button. Last time, the engine began to gradually rev before the red triangle shut it off. I believe the car is trying to pump more fuel at that point, and either the fuel line repair I did isn’t handling the pressure correctly, or the Marvel Mystery Oil has created a layer in the fuel bladder, causing the gas to lose its potency. I’ve already added a can of Seafoam and some octane booster, and I’ve pushed the car around a bit to get the fuel mixed.

Also, after the swap, I didn’t add the full 8 gallons or whatever the max capacity is, but the fuel level indicator says full. I want to see if the level goes down when I power the pump and drain the fuel from under the hood.

 

this is promising... after two home depot 5 gallon bins nearly full... car stays on without error codes the first two times starting then and lots of white smoke both times! finally we have new error codes...

 

turns out is was dirty fuel, after the last flush of all fuelout the beast started and has been running a few days now.. its just... everytime I fix codes more new appear...

 

P0016 its weird because if i clear codes, I can drive 100miles and it wont show up. when I turn the car off and say it sits a few minutes, when I turn it back on, that's when this code will throw the CEL. I've been holding off from checking the timing with some saying thicker oil will resolve, or the sensors but so far all sensors are at the in spec resistance.

P1121 is so random, I haven't been able to get it to consistently trigger but telling is i smell coolant now and then. After washing engine bay at coin car wash, I haven't seen any fluid leaking. Would this code by why I hear this.. noise that at first I thought was ABS but its not. Would this cause any additional noises at all? I think this is the valve above the large silver cylinder on the drivers side right? Is this part one that needs to be purchased new or can a used one do the job?

 

at wits end on the P0016... thicker oil and checked sensors... really was hoping I didn't need to pop the top on this thing...

 

soo...

I think it was the timing chain... whats interesting... on Friday I replaced the camshaft and crankshaft sensors right... oh and that coolant part behind the drivers headlight, then... for the first time, on the screen I saw the fuel consumption screen. No Check engine lights or anything.

https://black.jmyntrn.com/2024/10/07/jdm-motor-install-to-my-2009-blew-up/