P0A08 error code

That's strange. This is what I see when I click on info for the app 1.62 at the bottom.

So I tried again with the previous post on #53 but still same thing.

So I un-installed and went to my files and installed the apk from #53 and was able to get somewhere it finally allowed me to do a Full Scan and get the p0aa6 code.

Then when I went to the "ev battery section" it says it's not supported? 3rd screenshot

So then I went to the "mail" tab where all the makes are found. I select toyota and when I put in my vin it just tells me what it includes but nothing to download (4th screenshot)

I imagine I need to download a different build? I downloaded build 8 iirc

 

The Autel MaxiAP200 app is NOT the correct app to use with the Autel AP2500 OBD2 red doggle that you purchased. That app is used for the Autel AP200 OBD2 white doggle. You now have the correct app (build 8) installed on your phone. The full scan will not complete unless the Toyota file was downloaded to your phone, so you are all good.

The "ev battery section" does not work for a Prius because it is a hybrid vehicle. A Prius is not an ev (electric vehicle), so it does not have an ev battery.

Now that the Autel AP2500 is working for you, we should continue the discussion about the P0AA6 code in the thread that you created for your car: https://priuschat.com/index.php?posts/3476671

 

The INF codes for a P0AA6 code will be in the P0AA6 code's freeze frame. You should find that under Diagnostics where you scanned and saw the P0AA6 code in the first place.

 

Now that the Autel AP2500 is working for you, we should continue the discussion about the P0AA6 code in the thread that you created for your car: https://priuschat.com/index.php?posts/3476671

 

Could you please elaborate how your friend tested or explained to you the testing procedure for the fusible link at the 12v battery please?

 

Here is how my friend explained it to me (in red italicized text below). First, a little explanation of the results I first got. When I followed the procedure as written, I was getting weird results. With a digital meter, the display just alternately flashed 0.000 and 0.L With an analog meter, the meter would try to go past 0 ohms. If I switched the red and black leads on the analog meter, the meter would try to go past infinite ohms.

"Their instructions are in error here. You are checking a terminal that connects through the 120 amp fuse right to the battery positive terminal – through the battery to ground. You should be checking between the terminal and the battery positive post to verify that the fusible link assembly has good continuity.

An analog meter uses a battery with a series of resisters in series hooked to the meter movement to check for resistance. If there is a low resistance path (near zero), then the current flow should drive the meter up to the 0. Now when you put the battery in the path, it has a 12 volt potential pushing back on your meter current trying to go through the battery. When you reverse your leads, now you up the current flow which drives the meter higher than normal – past the zero point. The digital meter is flashing back and forth between the two reading trying to decide how to report the situation. You never should test for resistance with a battery in the circuit.

So, bottom line, think you have proven the fusible link block as ok, but go ahead and test by using the battery positive terminal instead of body ground. Then you will get consistent results no matter which way you apply the test leads."

Also, here is a copy of Step 5 of the inspection procedure for diagnosing DTC P0A08-264, with my notes added in pencil, red ink, and yellow highlighter.



When I tested using the procedure my friend suggested, I got readings of about 2.1 ohms or 2.2 ohms using my Amprobe Digital meter, and less than 1 ohm when using my old Philmore analog meter. The higher readings with the digital meter may have been due to user error and the fact that the digital meter has multiple "modes" that I may have not chosen correctly.

And, in hindsight, I attempted this test with the 12V battery still connected, as the inspection procedure did not tell me to disconnect it. Further in the procedure (Step 12) the 12V battery is required is to be connected, but again, no mention to connect it as if it should not have been connected earlier.

 

Yeah I

Yeah I understand, the procedure inspection isn’t the greatest. At the current moment I am stuck on the highlighted part. I keep getting OL when following the procedure.

 

The repair manual does leave things out that are covered by prior training modules or general concepts a technician trained to the level to be using the repair manual should know. Your friend was able to work out the correct procedure due to his training and knowledge of how things work.

If the repair manual was to include every little thing, it would be unusable.

 

This was a part of the procedure where I was extra careful to make up for my lack of professional mechanics training. For step (d), the Power Switch should be in the IG-OFF. Steps (a), (b) and (c) require IG-ON, and the 12V auxiliary battery connected to get voltage readings. Be sure your 12V battery is charged (by means of an external charger if necessary). For step (d), I left 12V battery still connected (as I did thru whole procedure), but just turned IG-OFF. I got a reading of 129.1 ohms for step (d).

 

May I ask what you used as a body ground for step d?

 

I don't recall exactly ... may have been the same nut near the main fuse box and near the jump start post, but any solid metal part of the body should work.

 

hmm for some reason I’m not getting any resistance on step D and I’m using the same grounding point that you showed. But yet for steps A through C I can clearly read the voltage. So I don’t know if the Hybrid ECU is to blame yet.

 

Not sure why you are not getting any resistance either. Just to double check, are you testing the correct terminal on the correct connector? That is a hard to access spot, and seems like it was hard to tell which "end" is part of the inverter/converter and which "end" is the wiring harness. The wiring harness "end" should be heading towards the right or passenger side of the car, where it comes from the Hybrid Vehicle Control ECU. This is a picture of my old unit after it was removed, as viewed from the back of the unit.



Are you attempting to trouble shoot DTC P0A08 or some other code? There is another DTC (P0A09) that tests the DC/DC Converter Status that I came across in my research. This was NOT a trouble code that my scanner found, but I did investigate it briefly. Physical access to the Hybrid Vehicle Control ECU is more involved and was hard for me to reach and see and be able to test, so I abandoned that tangent wild goose chase and focused on the one DTC that the dealer and my scan tool found.

 

I’m diagnosing P0A08. I actually followed the wiring diagram from the converter to the H-Ecu. ‘Nodd’ only showed a resistance of 0.1 when probing the connector(C5) by the converter and the connector that goes into the H-ECU(H16). I went ahead and tested ‘VLO’ for resistance the same way the procedure suggests to test ‘Nodd’ and didn’t get any resistance either.
I tested the gnd1/gnd2 connectors that go into the h-ecu for resistance and got 0.3. So I believe the h-ecu might be malfunctioning. I will update once I replace it to confirm.

 

Please do update us, as I am curious as to what the result will be. I looked again at the inspection procedures for DTCs P0A09-265, P0A10-263, P0A09-591 and P0A10-592, and the low resistance readings you got seem to be what they should be. I haven't dug deeper into all of the wiring diagrams to find where gnd1/gnd2 are and how to test them ... and my hat's off to you for being able to contort yourself into a position to test the connections at H16.