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Anyone Close to Stroudsburg, PA? Help Needed

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Hybrid Hobo, Sep 24, 2024.

  1. Hybrid Hobo

    Hybrid Hobo Member

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    Anyone on here within 45 minutes to an hour of Stroudsburg, PA or Columbia, NJ? I'm a nomad who travels throughout the northeast in my Prius, and this is where I am currently.

    Need someone that can put in a new fan blower resistor for me. According to everything people have told me and what I've seen online, it's probably a 10 minute job, at most.

    Here's a YouTube video explaining the process:


    I'd try doing it myself, but I'm disabled due to a stroke and cannot bend down to get under the glove box, remove it, etc. And my mechanic is closed until October 8th.

    If someone can help, I'll obviously buy the part, and I'll offer $100 cash for your time.

    I'm pretty sure it's either the resistor that's bad, or the fan blower itself. If we put the resistor in and it doesn't work, that's no problem. I'll then take it to my mechanic and that's one less job he needs to do. And you'll still get paid
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    You should have the blower motor at the ready so that if that happens the person who's just changed the resistor can undo the three bolts and change the blower motor pretty much that simple to test this all you need to do is measure the power at the blower motor plug at the different switch settings If you get any that don't produce a fan and you have a little bit of sand like you have here the blower resistor was working in two places and not in about three so it would be a good idea to replace it and then when you do that you'll have all four or five fan speeds but if there's not enough coming out on high the blower motor may be very old and tired and then when you replace it with a new one you'll all of a sudden hear that noise like you're used to and the amount of air coming out the vents being proper and just can work out that way and if your car's got 300K on it you're blower motor and your resistor or $300,000 mi and however many years old but then you'd have one person there already spending $100 it's not but another 2 minutes to undo those three bolts and drop the blower and put them back in and put the plug up and the blower motor cheap
     
  3. Hybrid Hobo

    Hybrid Hobo Member

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    @Tombukt2 I'm obviously not a car guy at all, but based on what's happening, I'm fairly certain that it's a bad resistor. Here's why...

    When the a/c DOES comes on - now working only intermittently - the blower works fine on all settings (lowest to highest), and the air output is ice cold. So, this, to me, would rule out the blower itself as the most likely culprit.

    The main issue is that the blower doesn't always start/fire, it is dead at times. But since it DOES work here & there, and the air is cold, the resistor is probably very weak and needs to be replaced. This *might* explain the rattling noise I've been hearing, as maybe it's the resistor struggling to power the fan. This would line up with the whining, dead droning noise that's been happening, too.

    I could very well be wrong, but this is what my gut is telling me based on what I'm witnessing first hand.
     
  4. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    That rules out the blower resistor pretty much too I mean unless that thing is overheating the resistor I kind of have a real problem with that that's one of the new solid state jobs. It's not the old blower resistant where the wires are sealed up in a ceramic block they wear out and get exposed and then break No this is completely different so if you have forget the air conditioner for a few minutes let's just talk about the fan and blowing in low non-heated air without the compressor engaged so the yellow line is not above the whatever it is air conditioning sign so you're just running the fan You're sitting in the car you can run the fan on every speed that you push and on most of those speeds it comes out of the vents as designated similarly to has always? This will pretty much rule out your blower resistor and your blower now if when the air conditioner on the blower starts acting funny and you don't have it on low AC with the yellow line and the fan set where you want it like you have it in auto mode then that could be part of your problem The auto function may not be working properly The sensor on the dash may be clogged with dust it's in the black panel starting to be right at the face of your knee you'll feel a little vent that needs to be clear blow it with an air hose and see how much dust comes flying out the bottom of the dash panel things like that could be going on If you have all speeds working in the air seems to be coming out just with the fan running and blowing cold ambient air no heat no AC then I would not be changing the blower motor and the resistor It's just that simple I mean you're running this thing like it's a house so the car was never made to do that really so I don't know where you are in the grand scheme of things miles and time and all this stuff but it seems like you've been doing it a while so whatever controls the air conditioning system the climate control module or something could be getting worn out if you will electrically but I would think there would be some sort of codes but it's so intermittent maybe the car can't detect it yet Not sure I don't have the manual out and open to see all the codes that are available for the whole car which I imagine there's quite a list
     
  5. Hybrid Hobo

    Hybrid Hobo Member

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    @Tombukt2 I've attached a photo. I assume this is the vent that you're speaking of? [​IMG]If so, it does appear very dusty. I can manage shooting some air in it to see if it'll help. I'll try doing that today. Who knows, it might work. But would the blower fan actually stop functioning due to dust alone?

    If you watch the video I posted, that gentleman has the EXACT problem I have. The blower simply isn't firing/spinning at times. And it was the resistor.

    As for being in Auto mode, I never leave it in Auto. Always off.

    I'll report back once I get some air into that vent. Thank you
     

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  6. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Generally I believe that's a thermistor down there It's supposed to read the temperature of the cabin when you're in the auto mode and between that sensor and other information the air conditioning control computer can make everything happen that's how it turns the fan up and down and all of that nonsense when it gets cool enough it turns the fan off or down to real low kind of like the way it does in your house so there's always that I imagine if it was clogged up full of dust and dog hair and dander that it could get erratic readings and maybe call similar problems that I think you're describing maybe not I've got to work 09 vehicle that I've never cleaned anything on this thing is full of dust and trash and just crap from working around properties I use air conditioning on low fan on medium and that's it no pushing the buttons on the steering wheel no auto mode nothing I got ice cold there all the time until the inverter pump blows and the system gets tacked and the inverter shuts my AC off which is happened once and that's a 10 minute fix when the part comes in not too much bending and stooping that's under the hood on all four of the cars I own I have had to replace nothing internally blower resistors switches none of it One cars had a clock spring that's it these cars are very reliable in that sense even when you get them dirty but at least that's what I know from the four or so that we have here all just like yours.
     
  7. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    Let me see if I've got this right from following the posts so far. The A/C only works some of the time. When the A/C is working it's working as it should. When the A./C is not working the HVAC fan doesn't start on any setting ( fan ) low med or full speed )).
    One thing I've seen in similar situations and is easy to test,
    in post #3 above :), forget about the A/C settings and /or change them to heat and raise the temp so the heater is ON.
    It's good to test this in both situations ie: when the A/C is working correctly, switch the system to heater ON and raise the temp so you can feel what heat feels like at the temp you set for Heat in the winter.

    Than when the fan is Not working, change your settings to Heater On and see if the fan comes on and produces the same amount of heat as it did when you tested it while the A/C was working as normal.
     
    #7 vvillovv, Sep 24, 2024
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2024
  8. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    what happen to your trusted mechanic
     
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  9. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Out till Oct 8 I think he said
     
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  10. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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  11. Hybrid Hobo

    Hybrid Hobo Member

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    Update: Was scheduled earlier for my oil change, which I get every 4 months. PriusCamper suggested to replace my cabin air filter, as that might have something to do with the climate control issue.

    So I had Valvoline put in a new one for me. Oh boy, the old one was FILTHY. Large hairballs on it, loaded with dust, etc.

    For added measure, I also had them shoot pressured air into the vent under the dashboard that Tombukt2 mentioned.

    Happy to report that since doing so, the climate control seems to be working well again (no delay in turning on, no droning fan sound, etc.). However...

    There is still a noticeable sputtering sound, but it's much more manageable than the cacophony that I had few the past few days. And most importantly, again, everything appears operable.

    Not sure what this sputtering could be, but I'll take a peek when my buddy arrives in a day or two, as he can help me a bit. Is there anywhere under the hood that I should look? Perhaps for foreign matter that's stuck someplace or something like that?

    Not sure if it was replacing the air filter or hitting that vent with air (or both) that helped, but THANK YOU Tombukt2 & PriusCamper - as well as everyone else - for your assistance.

    Unless I can figure out the source of the problem before then, I still plan on having my mechanic investigate the sputtering noise.

    P.S. - I got a somewhat good eyeball on the blower motor today while they were changing the filter. Didn't appear to be anything lodged in there, etc.
     
  12. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Usually I use my Shop-Vac and those little computer tools that go with the one and a quarter inch hose and you can put the little extensions together and you can reach through the filter hole that they change that was real dirty and vacuum out the crap that's actually sitting down below the fan impeller those little computer tools will get in there and suck that stuff out You might catch another two that you have to withdraw the tool and pull the nut off the end of the little hose and stick it back down there to keep doing it till you get all that out anything in there can make any kind of wearing and whizzing and all kind of spaceship noises
     
  13. Hybrid Hobo

    Hybrid Hobo Member

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    Update: I spoke too soon! Should've kept my yapper shut :p

    Very stuffy last night. So had the a/c on low setting at 69. Was working fine, but after awaking in the early a.m. I noticed it died once again. Tried changing settings, etc. all to no avail.

    After searching Google earlier for older posts about this, there were many from PriusChat. A few even mentioned the EXACT noises that I've been hearing. In almost all cases, the issue was the blower motor. They simply die after a while, or sometimes have items lodged in them.

    Soooo, I am almost 100% certain that that is the culprit here. Good news is that blower motors are fairly cheap ($50-$125), and can be swapped out in under an hour. Which means, I won't have to put my mechanic's kids through college to fix this problem!

    P.S. - Is EdtheFox5 still on this forum? He has a lot of experience with the blower motor as he not only changed his, but also wrote a detailed post about it. I'd love to get his read on this just for added reassurance & a second opinion.

    P.P.S. - If anyone is within an hour of the Poconos, my offer still stands, as I won't be able to see my mechanic until the 8th of October. $100 cash to replace it for me. I'll come to you with the part ready to go.
     
    #13 Hybrid Hobo, Sep 25, 2024
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2024
  14. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Yes replace the blower motor usually if you have the blower motor running and you stick a small piece of plastic like when it's running on high and it won't let the impeller stop easily it's got a pretty good amount of torque behind it but yours right now you'd be able to stop with your finger without it hurting your finger but good one the edge of the squirrel cage would make a mark on your finger trying to stop it on high so your motor's just going bad when you get it out and you knock it on the edge of the table there's some holes on the side where that rubber tube plugs in and you'll see black dust come out of there those are your brushes
     
  15. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    The black dust doesn't mean the motor is bad. All electrical motors that use carbon brushes accumulate that stuff, and usually it just falls down into the motor as it wears off the brushes and doesn't cause any problems.

    That said, it can really make a mess if you turn a motor over that is full of that dust. Also, don't breathe it.
     
  16. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I mean when you turn that thing on its side on that rubber tube where it goes and you dump a bunch out of there yeah probably time to be thinking about a new motor or not racing WD-40 in there and keep getting it but especially if it's weak on high you put your finger in there and it doesn't make you move it right quick and just stops you don't want that I don't want it maybe you do not sure I need the air to come out at a good steady clip for that to happen air filter needs to be clean fan blades need to be somewhat clean and tell her on that and that's going to give you maximum CFM flow on that assembly
     
  17. bisco

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