3% Fuel in 1st Oil Change at 1300 miles 2024 XLE

My situation's a little unorthodox, having done the conversion to spin-on, on our 2010. At our dealership parts counter, I always just say something along the lines of "I need a filter for a 2022 Prius", and they always give me 90915-YZZN1. Are you saying there's another option?

 

Yep, my daughter broke my heart when she traded in her AMAZING 2016 Mazda CX-5 for a 2021 Hyundai Palisade. (She needed more room for her 4th kid.)
Anyway, I had just done the transmission and differential and coolant service on that Mazda...as easy to work on as a Toyota...love that SkyActive engine.
Anyway, I'm thankful the Palisade isn't a turbo but it does have the very old-school GDI 3.8 D-CVVT V-6 engine that still takes 5W-30 (but I only use Synthetic.) I change that oil every 3,000 miles...VERY dirty.....I'll be surprised if the car makes it to 2031 without any major issues.

 

YES! ...or no! Lemme explain.

There are the true factory filters (10009, 10010, etc) and the 2nd tier parts that are usually not warranty approved (yzz whatever filter) excepted if there aren't another option (most oil and some air filters fall into that category). Pictures are included below. We do have an unofficial alternative, the 90915-10010 (turbo tundra filter) that is the longer counterpart of the true OE filter that came on our (mine anyway) cars, the 90915-10009. But according to Toyota, what goes there is the 2nd tier 90915-YZZN1, that used to go by as a YZZF2 (The shorter counterpart of a YZZF1) ages ago, as the 10009 was discontinued around here, presumably due to cost (the 10009 and 10010 are twice the cost). Some older cars uses the D series filters D1 and D3. There are no true OE filter for these cars anymore..

...i'm translating as i write, just tell me if something isn't clear.



See there? The true genuine air filter for a 2022 Corolla with the m20 engine is a 17801-F0020 but you could use the less expensive YZZ16 one. It have less pleats, arguably less expensive media, etc... and is not appproved for warranty work. costs cuttings here and there..

 

I’ll add here that the 10010 sized filter, in my case a Purolator L14477, does fit fine. I think it’s probably the limit of length though; it’s not overly close by any means, but a bit longer would make it awkward to fit a wrench on it, depending on what you’re using.

This seems to be the go to filter size for a lot of Toyotas, for obvious reasons. The RAV4 forums talk about it too, same with the Corolla GR pages.

 

As mentioned elsewhere, there is more to oil filter compatibility than physical sizes of the case and thread. There is also the pressure rating the bypass valve opens up at. Too strong, and it won't open for warm up while the oil is cold and thick. Too weak, and it is open all the time.

What oil pressures is that turbo V6 running at vs the 4 cylinder in the Prius?

 

Strictly speaking, assuming you trust Purolator’s site and lookup, both the PL14476, the Prius filter, and the PL14477, the Rav/bigger/Tundra filter, are rated at 14-18.

if you trust that it’s the same spec. If you don’t trust their site, I doubt you’d be snorting around trying to find the largest filter anyways .

don’t get me wrong I don’t disagree with your premise. But it’s pretty easy to cross reference and such. It basically boils into what level of effort/risk you want to take.

 

It isn't something that regularly gets mentioned in posts about using another filter, and many reading those posts are clueless that there is such a spec to be concerned with. An oil filter supplier could easily be making filters identical in all ways but for the bypass valve spring.

 

nah, for sure. The oil debate and filter stuff has been going on forever. It’s crazy how much stuff stays the same over the years.

God help us if we start debating viscosities. Talk about ways to get people riled up .

 

I noticed the center tube holes don’t go farther on the taller F1 than on the shorter F2, maybe N1 too. I wonder why they did that, maybe I need to go on the commercial where the guy makes fun of seniors talking about unnecessary things to know.

 

I might have to go thru my stash of dissected filters and check out the number of holes in the center tubes.. never tought about that honestly!

 

More holes could lead to a pressure changes that have an impact somewhere. Though it more likely is about production costs.

 

The two oil filters are the Chinese (no letters in part number) and Thai (letters in part number) oil filters, respectively. They are both DENSOs, and I believe they are nearly identical and of very similar quality.

The air filter with letters in part number is an American air filter (non-DENSO). Stay away from it and use a Japanese one (DENSO).

I used to take my old Corolla to Sato's Auto Repair Center on Venice Blvd in LA. Sato was a big believer in Toyotas and Japanese engineering. He would never use an American part—always asked for an OEM Japanese part. Once, I took an oil-pressure switch. He wouldn't install it because he said it was American. I told him that it was made in Mexico, and he said that was worse! Anyway, he ordered one from the dealer. LOL

Photos for Sato’s Auto Repair Center—Yelp

 

YZZF1 Vs. 10009

And the reason i went with the 10010 (the F1 version of the 10009)? To me it seems like it's a kind of "get your cake and eat it too" filter.. better base plate with bigger holes, longer center tube with more holes, filtering media with a lot more pleats.. so the filter "should" theoretically flow better during cold starts.

 

90915 – 10003

So, the Chinese Denso (90915-10009) is better than the Thai Denso (90915-YZZN1). Interesting… There is also the Japanese Denso (90915-10003), which is the factory oil filter and must be even better.

 

My 90915-10009 was made in Japan however.

 

5w-30 for summer then 0w-20 for winter. if extreme cold place like wyoming or colorado rockies or parts of idaho then 0w-16 for winter with frequent changes

 

I always used Denso air filters and some were made in USA. I don’t avoid the USA, prefer them because jobs. They aren’t lesser in my opinion.
Whip City Wrencher saw holes in the Denso oil filter media. Using a flash light I can see them too, without a microscope.
Thats a whole new topic to argue about. I still have 7-8 of the Denso Japan filters in F1 size. The ones with a foam type element. That’s what Sato would want to use if he could get them. Nothing was like it. These new ones probably not much difference.

 

I can get behind this logic. It sort of boils down to whether you believe:

1) the recommendation for 0w16 is purely for fuel efficiency and EPA guidelines in the US.
2) without “1”, the Prius and other Toyotas would have a much more “traditional” oil recommendation.

If those are both true, then it 100% makes sense to choose an oil based on the conditions, and not the guidelines in the owners manual.

where I struggle with is the amount of potential “badness” Toyota might be signing itself up for, if they changed the oil recommendation only for the EPA/fuel efficiency numbers. They had to have done SOME sort of engineering research and validation of 0w16, but to what level they’re “actually” comfortable with that is probably something we’ll never know.

I’m anal anyways about oil changes; I ENJOY doing it. So I’ll be changing every 3k anyways. I’ve leaned into a 0w16 for winter, and a 0w20 for “Midwest summer”. Not very wild, but mentally I struggle with the last point: “some” sort of validation of 0w16 had to have taken place.

 

Double post

 

0w16 has been used in Japan for several years now. They've moved to 0w8, and I think the new Crown calls for it.