In all of the videos i've seen they don't mention any sort of gasket paste, so just wanted to confirm. The intake manifold gasket and throttle body gaskets go on dry (no paste/lube), correct?
Pretty much if you using Toyota gaskets yes fell pro yes Victor generally yes this is of course you're using the middle to top line gaskets from all the manufacturers not including Toyota that's all they'll have. Just check all your services that you can with the straight edge if you think there's any questions flatness is always good.
Yeah dry. First link in my signature has a repair manual pdf for intake manifold. Also all the torque values. A 1/4” drive torque wrench is good for the throttle body hold-down nuts/bolts in particular: those values are quite low.
@Mendel Leisk , Also, did you run your's in maintenance mode after you did the whole egr/intake project?
No. I did preemptively drain 2 liters engine coolant at the outset, which dropped the level below the EGR components, to avoid any spillage. After assembly I poured it back into reservoir, with the engine coolant vent valve* open, to allow air to escape as coolant was added. The level in reservoir ended up a little high, but I didn’t do anything special. After a few drives it settled back down. note too: throttle body doesn’t need to be disconnected from it’s coolant lines, for intake manifold removal. * If you don’t have that vent valve, leaving a topmost coolant hose disconnected will also work, allow air to vent. Just reconnect once coolant starts coming out.
@Mendel Leisk , you're referring to the little white knob on the right above the egr cooler, correct? Just remove that while re-filling the coolant?
Yes that knob, but you don’t need to fully remove it; you just unscrew it a few turns and that allows air (or coolant) to escape through the adjacent spigot. You can push clear tubing onto the spigot, to avoid spillage and more clearly see when coolant reaches the top. It’s basically a tap.
Would it be ideal to do a coolant change at the same time as the EGR? I'm at 111k miles doing the EGR circuit, but also have do a coolant change. I just figured one should make sure the engine works after the EGR cleaning to avoid messing up the coolant change air bubble / maintenance mode process.
Yeah it’s good to do both at same time. I didn’t, just drained 2 litres (into clean container, to be poured back in after), which dropped coolant level below EGR system. But with a coolant change pending, why not.
I'm not sure why everybody has to be in maintenance mode just to change their coolant I've never even seen maintenance mode I know it exists I just never used it for much of nothing If you fill the car slowly I can till it gurgles and you hear it almost come to the neck and then you just stop go in the house and use the bathroom whatever let everything settle for a minute because you haven't jammed it full of cooling all the way up to the neck two three minutes everything settles down while you're in the house or talking to a customer or whatever you're doing when you come back you continue adding slowly is the key. And you feel right up to that silly line past the full mark whatever it is b or something then you just turn on the car and wait drive around the block if you're that type or whatever generally that's the end of it yeah I can call up tech and turn on the pump and all of that but that just tells me it's working. But that's smart just let off the coolant to get it below EGR and all of that so when you take these other components apart you're not dropping stuff everywhere coolant wise you know that sort of thing Just makes you look a little smarter and you don't have a flood underneath your vehicle in the shop in the parking lot etc.
Hi Guys (Mendel, particularly), do you happen to have a link for the intake manifold maintenance pdf? You (Mendel) mentioned in a post above that there was a link to a pdf for this in your signature. I see many links in your signature, but not this one. l've got a new P0171 code (lean condition). Have cleaned MAS in distant past with this code (which resolved the issue), and just cleaned MAS again during all this recent maintenance, so I doubt its the MAS this time. Likely my over-torquing (waaay too much) of the intake, and using Corning D4 on an old gasket I re-used. Code cleared and took 20+ miles to recur, so hopefully I just need an intake gasket and better attention to instructions. I just read that the torque is only 21-25 ft lbs (assuming 25 for the 3 bolts, and 21 for the two nuts....but I don't know) Thanks for any input and link to intake manifold maintenance instructions, if you have any. I have already loosed the bolts up quite a lot and checked all the other connections to make sure I'm not leaking anywhere else. Crazy that this gasket is supposed to be dry. Who would've thunk that might cause a leak (but more likely my waaaay over-torquing is the culprit...or both).
Yeah I used to sell pro PT blue silicone rubber intake it fits in the grooves of the plastic intake and all of that and you don't have to kill it when you put it on You just snug it up and add a half a turn at best You don't have to do anything more than that and it should work great no leaks no problems for a good long time should be able to take it off and clean and do whatever you're doing and put the gasket right back in or not even take it out and put it right back on for a few times