My official Prius Plus mods thread.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Cheap! @ Dec 14 2006, 05:22 PM) [snapback]362473[/snapback]</div>

Hi guys, I do not want to be negative here, but have you put in consideration the extra weight that you will add to the total?. Is it worth it all the problem and expense for only carrying the spare tire for a maybe event that can be solved by means of a tow truck service for $50.00 when necessary?

 

I didn't want to be the only "naysayer of negativity" to this idea.

mrbigh brings out very valid points, and since he has already charted this path I would greatly value his input. Also, you're already pushing the weight limit of the Prius with all the added weight, I was figuring at least removing the spare would be a step in the weight reduction direction.

If anything, is it possible to put some of the batteries down in the spare well, and somehow have the spare sit above the batteries? Probably not a good idea if the spare would come in contact with the batteries though, so you'd also have to protect the spare somehow with some cover.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(mrbigh @ Dec 14 2006, 09:21 PM) [snapback]362555[/snapback]</div>

EDIT

My approach to the battery transportation was:
....an external box that rest in place of the back seat and I gained a better weight distribution, total added weight of the conversion is 485 Lb.

I do not know how many people you transport and if the Prius is the only family car, but in my case is for a daily single human and maybe a passenger once in a while so I was able to sacrifice the never used rear seat area * *Pictures taken Dec10, 2006* *

Another view of the add on pack

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Cheap! @ Dec 14 2006, 04:22 PM) [snapback]362473[/snapback]</div>

There is a point there. Most of these conversions aren't 'cheap', but yet some of us are. I'm wondering though if cheap automotive suspension parts (especially used ones) couldn't be set up to work similarly.

I also had a thought last night about installing a cheap electric winch into the trunk to to do the lifting for you in a solution reverse to the jack so that it pulls tight to 'raise' the box, and lets the line out to 'close' it. Then just route an easy to access control box in a more accessable place and let a small draw on the 12v battery do all the work for you. I'm a lazy sot, so I like work-free solutions.

Though I also like the idea of some of the batteries going into the spare bin so that you can create your own spare bin in the top of the battery box. That'd be the easiest access ever if it worked.

That rear seat removal idea is kind of cool too, but wouldn't work for a lot of us. But maybe it's possible to take part of that concept still. I haven't ripped my Prius apart to know, but is it possible to access any of the area under the rear seats and/or stack some batteries vertically behind the seats? Maybe a T or L shaped solution to shift more weight forward to balance on the suspension better without requiring the drastic removal of the rear seats? If you could shift enough forward you might even still have access to the spare as is. Access to the HV battery might become a pain for a service mechanic though. :lol:

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Silver Phoenix @ Dec 15 2006, 11:09 AM) [snapback]362759[/snapback]</div>

Remember that any type on conversion or addition to the vehicle can not block safety/security areas like the HV battery cage, HV safety orange plug with a Fuse ( mandatory requirements provision for emergency assistance services in an event of a catastrophe and/or technical services at repairs stations) located at the HV batt box at driver's side and the Aux battery at rear end passenger side.

 

I always wanted to take an Insight, like the one I had before I got the Prius, and pull out anything ICE related (engine, radiator, gas tank, exhaust, etc.). Then bolt an electric motor to the existing electric motor (flywheel area) and put batteries in the engine bay, in place of the 10.9 gal gas tank, in the compartment below the floor which is actually quite large, and the spare tire area. That would be one cool electric car, original weight is about 2K lbs, ditching the ICE and etc. would probably drop around 200 lbs and the batteries and motor etc. would probably add 500 or so lbs, plus you still have the stock electric motor and battery pack working independently to extend your range with assist as well as retaining it's regen function so you never have to charge it. All you would have to do is charge the added batteries. It would be a true EV, I would think capable of great range being a compact two seater constructed of aluminum and plastic. I would still like to pick up an old beat up Insight possibly even with a blown motor for real cheap and do that some day (or just sell the motor and other removed parts to help cash flow for the project). It may need the stock pack replaced too, which would add another $2K to the build assuming honda hasn't come down on the prices. I'll just keep dreaming for now...

 

I have a Brother-in-law that has been hand fabricating and racing his first electric r/c drag car. I got to talking about batteries and he mentioned A123 Systems Lithium batteries that are supposed to be available for EV and PHEV applications:
A123 Systems
You might want to try contacting them to see what they have available and found out about prices, weight, power, etc. and let us know what you find out.

 

One thing with the PVC project is to make sure that the pipe can be cut somewhere if you're gluing everything together so it can be removed. Trying to saw through a thick bushing with no room to work sounds tough. I suppose you could grind away from the inside of the spare tire well, but that could be tough too.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(sub3marathonman @ Dec 20 2006, 03:09 PM) [snapback]364719[/snapback]</div>

Here's a pvc wire saw:
http://www.cheappoolproducts.com/PVC~Wire~...29~product.html

 

What are the detailed specifications for some of these parts? I can try to find specifics if I know what is needed.

 

Have you checked the LiFePo4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) batteries?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(mrbigh @ Dec 26 2006, 11:32 PM) [snapback]366961[/snapback]</div>

Hey, I'm still back checking out the Ni-Fe (Edison) batteries from about 100 years ago.

I was looking at mrbigh's spectacular conversion http://mysite.verizon.net/vzep1vkh/lipog/id19.html and did have a couple of questions that hopefully he can answer.

Are the PbA batteries just used to charge the NiMH Prius batteries, or can the Prius batteries be bypassed so that the PbA batteries are directly supplying the energy to the Vehicle Traction System?

Could a simple system be made such that the PbA batteries are used to recharge the NiMH batteries when the driver flips a switch? Then the NiMH could be recharged until the driver sees the full 8 bars and then the switch could be turned off until it was needed again. Would the Battery ECU know that the NiMH batteries had been recharged, or can the ECU somehow be updated? A switch would also allow the driver to control how much or how little the PbA batteries were discharged. Is that what the switch box does in the diagram?

I was also wondering if the conversion has lived up to the expectations and if there were any tips or modifications that could be done for others trying this.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(sub3marathonman @ Dec 27 2006, 08:23 PM) [snapback]367455[/snapback]</div>

Sorry for the answers delay ....

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(mrbigh @ Jan 5 2007, 10:30 PM) [snapback]371589[/snapback]</div>

That's no problem. I figured you were out enjoying your Prius.

Anyway, it's not like I was checking every hour. Sometimes I waited as long as an hour and a half.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Silver Phoenix @ Dec 8 2006, 02:04 PM) [snapback]359389[/snapback]</div>

I know this is a month after the post, but small wire may clog and defeat the purpose of the vent. Further, a tee on the vent will not prevent water from entering the cabin in the event of submersion in a puddle. Some sort of check valve may be in order