For the protracted time the engine runs with a partially clogged EGR system, it’s not getting sufficient exhaust gas, what gas it does get is overly hot, and the uneven progression of the carbon clogging* leads to some cylinders being completely starved, while others are still so-so. my 2 cents: the only way to keep the 3rd Gen EGR working the way the engineers envisioned, is to fully clean it, say every 50k miles. It would be expedient to do this in conjunction with engine coolant changes. I appreciate this borders on absurd, but with Toyota just paying lip service to the issue, what are you going to do… * With the intake manifold’s EGR capillary passages, one per port, cylinder one tends to starve first, then two, and so on. The 3rd Gen head gasket failures commonly start at the wall between cylinder one and two. With further procrastination, perhaps punctuated with stop leak application, the other cylinders join the chorus.
Well really what's important to me in the grand scheme of thing is the total mileage the car made who was sitting in the driver seat is just who paid the money to be there but I understand he got 20K off of whatever was done or that sort of thing so the cars got 200k on it with a blown head gasket and a normal regular stuff It's basically right on schedule like I say at this point given the problems with the engine and the no machining in the replacement recommended that sort of thing The car did well maybe the second person didn't but the car did okay I guess not in my mind but in today's folks this is real good for them I'm expecting at least 350 I mean I expect it Not that I want it which I do I expect it from Toyota and I'm not getting that now and I generally understand why so I will stay with the methodology that has worked for the 4 to 600k. I don't have to keep up with anything to be in any of these things 2024s 2019s etc No need at all what did some Prius guy here say every model gets two or three percent different gas mileage that's okay I don't need that two or three percent from Gen 2 to 3 doesn't motivate me to do anything. Even for 60 miles to the gallon I wouldn't do it for the $200,000 miles that is
If the head is warped, get a new head... but if it's not, valves are pretty easy to do (if those even need to be done, you could probably just clean them). I suspect warping isn't happening as much as people think as long as there weren't any overheating instances. My only thing about the JDM engines is that your getting another engine with a crappy head gasket in it. If I bought a JDM I would be doing my own head gasket job on it before it went in. I've also seen where someone had to hone light rust off the cylinder walls since they sat for so long. That's why I think inspecting your own engine before deciding is smart. My oil-burning 220k engine was minty besides typical carbon deposits on the air intake/valves/piston rings (granted, I caught my blown HG immediately after symptoms and was in the garage within 5 minutes). I'm also only 8k past my HG job so take that for what it's worth.
At this point maybe the call is minimal input, i.e. hg and valves if necessary, I’ve never done valves but I’m fairly mechanically inclined. We don’t normally do long drives with it and maybe this is a sign that it’s time to start thinking about the next vehicle. I came back here now after getting distracted looking at hybrid rav4’s (the likely next move someday). Not incredibly tied to this car, but would like to continue getting the value out of it. I can probably do the hg job itself, providing the head and deck check out, in a day. Leak-down, and then just keep the car local for a while as a shake down. I also recently sold my cherry picker in the move up here, so doing the whole engine is less attractive. It’ll be interesting in the tear down to see this in action. I’ll post pics of course. Thanks for the info! There hasn’t been an overheating issue, though I do really hate that there’s no temp gauge on these. I get it, they designed it so you don’t need the conventional style of readout, but all you get is a little red coolant light correct? Not great for those of us who like to monitor and have useable data for troubleshooting. If I do end up needing to go the JDM route, I will absolutely preemptively do the hg job. Where are the preferred sites to order quality HG’s, water pumps, and bits and bobs from?
P10 scanner with correct mph or other data. $35 You want oem water pump and thermostats from Toyota dealers retail or online. Counterfeits in Toyota packaging rule on Amazon and EBay.
I remember reading at some point that the Fel-Pro HG was desirable over the OEM one due to the ability to seal a bit better if the surfaces had imperfections? Or that it was capable of handling the heat cycling of a hybrid engine a bit better? Am I on the right track, or OEM all the way?
Actually if you look at them they about look identical all the factory gaskets do now what was cool about the PT blue head gasket that fell pro made for all the engines of the old days even 3:50 v8s and MG's even was a blue thing and it was layers of steel sandwich between I don't know what in blue and always had the PT designation before the part number and older Toyota engines with overhead cams like the 22R the same company fell pro made a copper sheet that looked exactly like the head gasket and that was a spacer so when you shaved your head your valve timing wouldn't be off by the thousands you shaved off the head because you're picking it back up with the copper spacer blah blah blah. Today I think it's the number of sheets of steel involved in the business The gasket assembly You see it's riveted or held together by what looks like some sort of rivet that gets flattened out when you squash it down with the 80 lb or whatever it is of torque those three to five layers are what is supposed to do the trick I thought for some reason I don't know why advertising or looking at parts not sure that one of these gaskets was a five-layer dealy in the original was like three I have to go out and look in the trunk of one of the cars where there is a multi-layered I believe it's a PT gasket not blue for the 2ZZ FXE engine and I'll count the layers I guess but I thought somebody here was talking about a modern part number having something like five layers. Fel-Pro is one of thee sealing companies. Been using their stuff since the late '60s. Kind of like the old standard ignition but those days are long gone.
There are MANY opinions of which head gasket to buy. felpro gaskets have failed like the others. If you keep the egr system cleaned and do the head gasket job correctly, either will last. I have 44,500+ miles on my Toyota head gasket..... got 303,500+ on the original one.....
You really want the OEM head gasket kit because it has all the correct O-rings and gaskets (as far as I know) which the Fel-Pro kit does not. Yes, some people like the Fel-Pro head gasket itself (probably just due to marketing, or brand name recognition), but I doubt anyone has any real world data comparisons between the two and it seems people have success with both.
Toyota revised the gen3 head gasket in the black sealant layer. They also changed gen3 pistons, rings, intake, egr valve and ecm software so there is no single magic bullet for a gen3 engine. In the 2016 gen4 1.8L engine they dramatically changed the cylinder wall cooling, added a foam insulator to even out cylinder wall temps, changed cooling passages, overhauled the egr valve adding a cooling circuit, increased the size of the egr cooler, took egr gas downstream of the cat where it’s cleaner instead of before the cats and a slew of other things. A gen3 engine is unlikely to be as reliable as a gen4. With that said, a rebuilt engine with all the gen3 revisions combined with 5k mile oil changes may have the best chance of giving another 150k-250k additional engine miles to the average owner.
Yeah each gen seems to be outa the pan and into the fire, in one way or another. Gen 4 has Exhaust Heat Recovery failures, which if overlooked and/or misdiagnosed long enough can lead to engine failure. The elephant in the room is Toyota: insufficient testing, and when problems occur, their propensity is to dodge/deny/ignore them. The one thing that bugs me about the Toyota gasket kit (either one), it apparently has no documentation as to what goes where. Would be extremely helpful.
Well she made it back in one piece, if you consider one piece also including a flat tire less than 100 miles into the 1000 mile trek home, and the coolant light coming on and off going up a grade and I’d told her not to use the a/c for now, and it was inthe 90’s that day. It was rough, but anyway the car is home. The stop leak did its job it seems, yes I know there are casualties to that decision. So I am going to order the HG kit, water pump, thermostat, and am wondering what else I might want to have on hand for this job? Here’s the HG kit, is this the right one? 0411237254 - Toyota Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Set. CT200h | Toyota Parts Overstock, Lakeland FL
The coolant light is not great since it takes 248f to trip it on an engine that normally runs less than 200f. These engines have excellent cooling systems capable of 100f ambients on grades with the AC running full bore.
Check out the post #1052 of this thread. Blown Head gasket rebuild....@297k | Page 53 | PriusChat I was under a different impression about the updated Toyota head gasket. If I were to do the job I'd get the Fel-Pro head gasket a la cart and source OEM stuff for everything else (it might still be easier to get the kit just for the other gaskets). It does seem like the people who do this job often prefer the Fel-Pro.
No that's not great, didn't realize the light came on at 248. I'm gonna tear it apart and see what I find. I'll report back.
One manufacturer of a stop-leak product recommended a 50/50 mix of white vinegar/water, for their product. Hopefully such a mix will work for yours. After flushing that out, with additional water, you have the quandry of getting back to a 50/50 coolant/water mix, with the spec'd coolant pre-mixed at 50/50. Using full strength Toyota Long Life Coolant (note absence of the term "Super") would work. More info in my signature IIRC.
1/2 quart per 5k miles is nothing. Won’t gunk up the engine, vanishes like fart in the desert. Obviously oil consumption does not play big role in HG issues. Ours burn 1/2 per 1000km yet it just keep going, no rattle, no coolant loss
I finished watching RJ's Gasket Masters tube in his post #15. It's the first time I've seen that one. I'm now watching one I've seen at least 3 or 4 times already. GaskMasters are doing the full HG replacement on a taxi in the taxi terminal lot. These guys move fast, blink and you'll miss something. cut paste and spend a day or two absorbing what these dudes are puttin out there, before diving in. youtu.be/jxjIzhpwW78 knowing where each one is, where you have a question they answer, well ? there is even one somewhere that shows clearly which gasket they use. OK,. I"m out of here. Hey hey, I'm back since I got 10 minutes left in the video and I remembered you're asking a lot of questions that are answered in the TIS repair manual - get at least a 2 day subscript and read how the manufacturer explains how to do the job. https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal dive in @