Gen3 Booster and Actuator

Just to make sure parts are called the right names on PriusChat ... there are two things under the hood there:



The top one there is the Booster, and also the Actuator (and also the Master Cylinder, and also the ECU).

The bottom one there is the Booster Pump (and that's a different thing than the Booster), and also the Accumulator.

And a lot of questions get posted here about part numbers, particularly because Toyota has this way of sometimes putting a number physically on a part, that looks just the same as Toyota part numbers do, but is not the part number for the part. Annoying, but just something to get used to. I had to get used to it with Ford also.

And of course that's made worse by eBay and Amazon sellers all reading whatever number they see on the part and listing it as the part number. So you're right, it's pretty much impossible to get good answers from the internet.

If you have the chance to order a brand new part from a Toyota dealer and see the part number you ordered on the box, and then compare to whatever maybe-or-maybe-not part number is on the part itself, sometimes at least you figure out what number on the part goes with what actual part number.

 

the only issue on not doing the inverter recall (i haven't) is that it can die in a dangerous situation

 

I am confused and devastated! My Toyota dealed quoted me $1143.68 for the master cylinder (47050-47140) and $1115.80 for the pump (47070-47060). That is $2379.23 for parts, after tax and $4112 with tax and labor included. The same part numbers are $1080.52 for both parts at other online dealers. (Less than half price) So, you are saying that if I buy the parts online (for my 2010 level IV) that I will not know what I am getting unless it has a part number on the box? (I need to tell the dealer to label the box for the correct part.) That would eliminate ebay and junk yard parts. Please clarify.

 

The softwares intent is to better protect the inverter? So you go with Toyota’s advice, get the update, and any subsequent inverter failure is your fault?

why would that be?

 

As you rightly suspect, there is no such catch-22. The terms of the Customer Confidence Programs are covered here. There's nothing there about needing non-updated firmware.

 

My pump goes on every second brake pedal press. I have checked the pump for resistance checks as per the manual and it looks fine. I am thinking of replacing the brake booster and get a local garage equipped with Software tool to bleed the system as per the manufacturers recommendations

@Mendel Leisk , @ASRDogman , @Tombukt2 and other senior members - Do you know of any good links on Prius chat or youtube that helps with tackling as DIYing brake actuator replacement. I am thinking afterwards in getting local reputable mechanic shop to bleed the brake system using software.

 

Wrong. They still change it assuming you have the right codes.

That is the housing code not the part number.

Since the ecu inside has specific software, the part number changes. If buying from an online Toyota dealer you will get the right parts as long as you supply your car’s vin. Otherwise used parts are risky considering the large amount of labor involved. We have seen some try three times. If you “have” to try used, be sure to get the donor car’s vin and check its brake booster part numbers against your vin specified part number.

I would not change it based on this symptom alone. If you hear it running every 15 seconds or more then the end is near. It has to run periodically after you use the brakes.

 

@rjparker
thanks its now at a point the pump runs frequently every second time you had the pedal means its loosing the pressure every time i hit the breaks. This i thought was a clear sign of the module starting to fail. I have already checked the pump using a volt meter resistance check suggested on the Toyota manual its all within specs and the fact the the pump is running and pressurizing every time seems to suggest the problem is with the main module that houses the master cylinder

i have found a reliable used JDM parts for 3rd Gen Prius. He is able to source the correct matching part once i confirm the number on my actuator. I think i need to get the actuator out as i cannot read the number in Situ

 

Good luck

 

No, it's using the pressure every time you hit the brakes. That's what it's there for.

I'm not sure how many times I hit the brakes in mine before the pump runs, but every two or three times is not out of the ballpark. It also depends on how hard you apply the brakes each time. (That's what uses the pressure!)

If you have no trouble codes, no braking symptoms, no repeated running of the pump when you're not braking, I would not be concerned about it at this point.

 

@Mendel Leisk Thank You yuo always come out with some good documents and the youtube link.- Thats a very helpful document with details on the pump assembly replacement. it alse shows the label of the pump is the way to check affected pumps

 

@ChapmanF - Thank you i am starting to question if i even have an issue here. I may have been a bit over cautious. One thing i did find out reading more documents on the issue . Brake fluid leaks or brake drag also can affect i may check for this in the first instance

 

I assume you have to do the calibration since it's a different master cylinder? I have C1252, C1253, C1256 and I found a electronic shop to rebuild the brake booster/accumulator and want to try it first before replacing the master cylinder. I can hear my pump every 10 seconds.

 

I am a new member with a 2010 Prius that seems to run fine, but: the booster pump is running every 10 seconds. I have no warning lights coming on. I have watched numerous videos and feel I can do the work of replacing the actuator/brake booster assembly (and/or the booster pump and accumulator), and I have decided I should buy the part new, from Toyota, so I don’t have to worry about used part age or match. I am only going to replace the actuator to start. My concern is, how I can bleed the system correctly.
1. Do I need to buy a scanner? If so, which one? ( I hope to keep this car for 10 more years so I would like to get a scanner that would be useful in the future ).
2. If I get a scanner, will I still need the Techstream software?
3. I have read that I can purchase 2 days of techstream (from Toyota) and download it to a laptop. Would that alone (ie without a scanner) solve my bleeding issue?
Thanks, in advance, for any help!!

 

You would need to get a working cable, which is a 50/50 chance and install a pirated copy of
techstream.
It's all touch and go and very tricky. Most people seem to NOT be able to finish the bleeding
process with it.

I purchased the XTools D8 scanner. It will do everything techstream will do, and more.
It will also work with other vehicles. I've used it several times and it works well.
I've never done the brake bleed with it, yet.

You can find it on ebay. I was lucky and found an open box one. It was under $500.