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No Ready Mode

Discussion in 'Prius v Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by thetruth127, Jun 1, 2024.

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  1. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    I also doubt the 12v battery is your problem but if the system never gets to Ready there can be no 12v charging from the vehicle. So keeping your 12v on a charger makes sense.

    If you have some pin corrosion after being disabled by the ocean for six months there could easily be more.

    Certainly this is a problem. But I would make sure the fuse is not undersized. Lots of people have reverse jumped their cars without blowing modules but you may be the first with an advanced technology system. So all bets are off.

    I looked through both threads and their attachments and found little from the hv battery.

    It seems your can bus network is down but it could be the Techstream on your laptop in part.

    Honestly if this car is worth saving it might be time to find local help. Not sure where you are in California but I would start with cancelling all assumptions on what works, reinstall original modules, connect everything, verify each fuse by size, position and continuity, and then probably need to grid charge the hv battery.
     
    #21 rjparker, Jun 1, 2024
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2024
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  2. JohnPrius3005

    JohnPrius3005 Active Member

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    What is the step by step procedure you would use when first walking up to the car and trying to get it to READY?
     
    #22 JohnPrius3005, Jun 2, 2024
  3. thetruth127

    thetruth127 Junior Member

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    I have been checking the ecu fuses but I will have to recheck all the fuse especially the one under the fuse box which is a pain to get to

    Will do …to be continued

    Press the brake, press the start button , press for accessory mode , then again for ready mode

    Press the brake, press the start button , press for accessory mode , then again for ready mode
     
    #23 thetruth127, Jun 2, 2024
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 14, 2024
  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    With brake pedal depressed one push “should” get you into Ready. There’s a gizmo at brake pedal to detect if it’s depressed, maybe not working?
     
    #24 Mendel Leisk, Jun 2, 2024
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  5. JohnPrius3005

    JohnPrius3005 Active Member

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    Try these steps:
    Disconnect one of the terminals from the 12v bat
    Measure the voltage with a voltmeter

    Locate the procedure for attaching a Prolong HV bat system.
    From this procedure determine where the Prolong is attached.
    Measure the voltage of the HV bat.

    Tell me each of these values and I'll give you the next steps
     
    #25 JohnPrius3005, Jun 2, 2024
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  6. thetruth127

    thetruth127 Junior Member

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    The 12v is reading around 12.20
    I tried googling your other recommendations, do you mean a Prolong hybrid battery charger? the modules are reading around
    6/3/24

    1/7.53

    2/7.67

    3/7.55

    4/7.53

    5/7.55

    6/7.57

    7/7.55

    8/7.55

    9/7.56

    10/7.57

    11/7.56

    12/7.55

    13/7.58

    14/7.55

    15/7.03

    16/7.09

    17/7.53

    18/7.56

    19/7.55

    20/7.55

    21/7.56

    22/7.23

    23/7.59

    24/7.53

    25/7.55

    26/7.56

    27/7.58

    28/7.57
     
    #26 thetruth127, Jun 3, 2024
  7. thetruth127

    thetruth127 Junior Member

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    #27 thetruth127, Jun 3, 2024
  8. JohnPrius3005

    JohnPrius3005 Active Member

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    12.2 v "might" get the car to ready.

    I recommend charging the 12v bat with it disconnected. See how high you can get it to stabilize at after 8+ hours of charging.

    Otherwise get your hands on a known good battery - any 12 v car battery - and connect that alone to the car, with the original bat disconnected.

    Yes, that Prolong. What the instructions will do is show you how and where to connect it. This is where you want to measure the HV bat voltage. I'm not asking for module voltages.
     
    #28 JohnPrius3005, Jun 4, 2024
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  9. thetruth127

    thetruth127 Junior Member

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    So the fuse 10 amp ECU -IG no.2 is still blowing when the DRIVER ASSIST CONTROL MODULE OEM 86572-47030 is contacted when the car is put in accessory mode tracing some of the wires to these boxes , what are they ? I was thinking of disconnecting the wires going into them to see if the test light that I have connected to the fuse slot goes out or is there a better way any input on narrowing down the this issue is appreciated.
     

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    #29 thetruth127, Jun 6, 2024
  10. thetruth127

    thetruth127 Junior Member

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    When the driver assist is disconnected there is a click when powered from the seat belt control ecu and the power steering ecu/ when the driver assist is reconnected no response from either
     
    #30 thetruth127, Jun 6, 2024
  11. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    That module simply controls the pedestrian alert speaker in front as far as I can tell. I seriously doubt it is needed or is keeping you from Ready.

    Other items on that fuse are important.

    However the pics you are showing are not it.

    IMG_5284.jpeg IMG_5283.jpeg IMG_5282.jpeg
     
    #31 rjparker, Jun 6, 2024
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2024
  12. thetruth127

    thetruth127 Junior Member

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    Agreed but the fuse which is being blown is responsible for many
    systems that it functions :

    Audio System (Radio & Display Receiver Type) Automatic Glare-Resistant EC Mirror

    Cruise Control

    Dynamic Radar Cruise Control

    Engine Control

    EPS

    Garage Door Opener

    Headlight Cleaner

    Hill-Start Assist Control

    Hybrid System

    Navigation System (Navigation Receiver Type)

    Navigation System (Radio & Display Receiver Type)

    Parking Assist (Rear View Monitor) (Navigation Receiver Type) Parking Assist (Rear View Monitor) (Radio & Display Receiver Type) Pre-Collision System

    Roof Sunshade System

    Shift Control System

    Tire Pressure Warning System

    TRAC

    Vehicle Proximity Notification System VSC)
     
    #32 thetruth127, Jun 6, 2024
  13. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Exactly. My point was IF that module is the same as what I pictured leave it disconnected.

    It is unlikely to be needed for Ready.
     
    #33 rjparker, Jun 6, 2024
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  14. thetruth127

    thetruth127 Junior Member

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    KZYEE KM10 Power Circuit Probe

    Test results

    1.yellow /probe powered car off no reading / coming from the TPMS reset/set button :resistance 37.8k /continuity 2.75v

    2.purple / voltage 4.3 none powered/waveform 4.5 max 4.2 min frequency no powered/no resistance/continuity .0L

    3.blue/voltage 4.2 none powered/waveform 4.3 max 4.0 min freq no powered/ no resistance / continuity .0L/ coming from box : voltage 4.0v/waveform max4.2 min3.9/

    4.grey/resistance 10.5k/continuity 1.38v

    From the connector/ voltage 4.0v/waveform 4.2max 3.9min/resistance 0L/continuity .0L

    5.yellow /resistance 2.0k/continuity 1.54v : connector coming from instrument panel resistance 1.8k /continuity 1.45v

    6.pink/resistance 6.0k/continuity 1.24v/ coming from connector no reading

    7.light blue /voltage beeps red dot no power 11.1v powered 12v/ waveform 11.2 max 11 min/ coming from box getting reads

    8.black&white/voltage green light 0.0v/ resistance flicker 15.1 beeping / coming from box : voltage green beeping ground/resistance 0.0v beeps/continuity 0.00v

    9.pink/resistance 8.6k/continuity 1.93v/ coming from box getting resdings

    10.blue/no reading
     

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    #34 thetruth127, Jun 6, 2024
  15. thetruth127

    thetruth127 Junior Member

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    this is the brake actuator, does it sound good ?
     
    #35 thetruth127, Jul 30, 2024
  16. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    sounds pretty good, maybe a little frequent
     
    #36 bisco, Jul 30, 2024
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  17. thetruth127

    thetruth127 Junior Member

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    So hear are the results after attempting to recondition the modules using 2 Tenergy T180 with a light bulb load added for discharging faster at a half pack sized intervals . These are the codes from after clearing the DTC for Dr Prius & Techstream the reconditioning data sheet was obtained using a multimeter . The car still will not crank . Any thoughts?,
     

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    #37 thetruth127, Aug 9, 2024
  18. thetruth127

    thetruth127 Junior Member

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    So here are the results after attempting to recondition the modules using 2 Tenergy T180 with a light bulb load added for discharging faster at a half pack /14 modules sized intervals . These are the codes from after clearing the DTC for Dr Prius & Techstream the reconditioning data sheet was obtained using a multimeter except the blocks data which is TS. The car still will not crank . Any thoughts , TY
     

    Attached Files:

    #38 thetruth127, Aug 10, 2024
  19. MAX2

    MAX2 Member

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    Your problem is that you are fixated on minor mistakes. The most important thing is to find the reason why the high-voltage battery does not turn on.
    But the scan from Techstream does not indicate what errors are in the battery. Non-core programs often make mistakes in their codes.
    Please diagnose Techstream the high voltage battery for errors.

    If there are critical level errors, the battery will not be connected and the ready mode will not turn on.
     
    #39 MAX2, Aug 12, 2024
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  20. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    #40 Brian1954, Aug 13, 2024
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