Prius 2011 - Steering rack removal without removing the subframe

Hi Everyone,

Looking for some advise and help here. I want to replace steering rack to fix the play / rattle on passenger side in my 2011 prius ( RHD).

So far what I have gathered is as per the manual and a few other threads here. Subframe needs to be removed.

As I will be doing this on my drive way I donot feel very confident removing the heavy subframe.
I have come across this YouTube link reportedly removing rack without removing subframe on toyota yaris. I have had look and my prius has bolts around same position as in this video. 1)Would it make sense to think this is doable on. Prius.
2) any obvious risks and blockers with the approach on the youtube video .. see link below

3) any help by sharing your own experience would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance
MM

 

Hi ASR,

I have changed the inner tie rods 2 years ago. Change it again only to realise the play kow is excessive in the rack ( passenger side)

Car makes rattling/ thud noise because of this.needs a new steering rack recently confirmed by the alignment company where I took it after changing the inner tie rods.

Thnx @Tombukt2 ,

Yes agree it's just one side I am undoing the bolts. This is not an area I have worked before hence seeking advise if there is anything else I need to be aware of like supporting engine( don't see in the video). Any alignment issues if not done correctly.

Lastly am I likely to bend any parts of subframe or unknowingly pull out any electrical connectors by not being aware of following this approach on a Gen 3 prius?

Hi @ASRDogman see my reply above

 

Thnx, It will be a couple of weeks before i try this out. Will update here.

 

I have replaced the rack play and the clunks when going over uneven surface has now gone. I will write on teh challenges i faced when removing the rack

 

An update for others

I replaced the old rack over the weekend. This is not as straightforward as the video in link above on Yaris. But at the same time doable with a few extra bolts removed on the other side of the sub frame

Key takeaways
1) remove front wheels and support the car on the axle stands behind the sub frame . This will position the sub frame to open up ( at the rear only - not like entire frame is coming down) easily and for the rack to come out ( i had stupidly put one axle stand on front reinforcement rail supporting the sup frame
2) After you have have disconnected the rack from intermediate shaft and rack bolts removed. YOUR MAIN OBSTACLE is the rear lower engine mount ( 2 bolts and 2 nuts can be easily undone from under the car) ( see picture attached)
3) you will have to lower rear side of the sub frame by removing the rear brace on sub frame ( 3 bolts) and one upper bolt on each side. keep the Sub frame supported and gradually lower until the engine mount and sub frame separate enough for the rack to come out. ( see picture attached)

Additional requisite points for above to work
1) lock steering wheel with seat belt with wheels point straight ahead
2) Disengage U joint from inside the car. Rubber boot on the pinion is hard is best pulled from inside the car by first separating metal rim in it
3)Match marks on the joints and shafts of the rack important for things to go back easy
4)separate tie rod ends ( i removed them out completely) and separate the drop links as they resist sub frame from dropping lower.
5) keep the sub frame and Engine supported as you remove the bolts.
6)partially lower sub frame just enough to get the rack out. REMEMBER the sub frame is still connected the knuckle via the control arm( ball joints). So only lowers at the rear end. This is more manageable than dropping the whole heavy sub frame like others suggest including how the manual suggests . See attached picture on how much space is to be created for the rack to come out
7) There is 10 mm bolt X 2 holding a wiriness harness bracket at the rear of the sub frame. Disconnect this bolt or at least be aware and keep an eye as you lower the sub frame. You don't want to snap the wire thats connected to this bracket. I removed just on 10 mm bolt.
8) two trolley jack would be helpful.


I never though i could ever do this. But had no choice the cost in parts and labor. as i had decided to go for an original low mileage rack over an after market ( questionable quality). I had to do this myself in case if the part wasn't working. I had done the ground work and found reputable local used car parts suppler. He didn't let me down.

 

very detailed video on Subframe. This would have been a good to watch before i took on the job.Its not late for someone planning on the same job

 

@ozmatt

My inner tie rods failed two years ago..replacing the tie rods at the time fixed the issue. But about 12 months ago I started to hear a light knocking noise when going over uneven roads. This gradually got louder. I initially thought suspension and found no issue with suspension arms and bushings (infact change dropl links and)

Later thought this could be strut mount and removed and reassembled the left strut mount with no broken component.

Finally when I was looking to install new inner tie rods noticed the play only on the passenger side. The garage at wheel alignment said it has ti be fixed as the play was too much.

Hence I started this job. After 12 months of annoying noise when going over bumps... narrowed it down to play in steering and now its fixed.


I have since been investigating on the old rack. There is a plastic bushing that appears to be loose or broken.

Long story short you will have to go in an order to eliminate the issue. In my case I did everything before it was narrowed down to play in the rack..

I hope that helps

 

One last point to complete the thread.
My car went in for a wheel alignment this week. Following the rack change the steering wheel was slightly offset . At the alignment when the realigned the steering wheel . It triggered an error C1290 - Abnormal zero point steering angle sensor value( ABS Skid light ON).

This was eventually resolved by recalibrating the steering angle sensor at the garage. All working fine.
I am not sure how this could have been prevented.