Seems almost pointless to remanufacture a coil but hey whatever somebody wants to do coils are pretty cheap as it goes You can get fairly nice ones in $35 a pop look at the TRQ lake got them in a red and black heavier windings so on and so forth whatever they do to coils like accel used to do back in the day You remember the big yellow coils or the chrome ones on all the V8 cars and the v6s what have you.
No? I've never even thought about the possibility of something like that. Sounds like getting a rebuilt light bulb. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
I mean unless it's easy to split the hermetic seal there and open up the plastic case and take out the stuff that's worn out inside the coil windings etc then I wouldn't see the point of remanufacturing I guess to save plastic injection molding costs? But a lot of times these coils the plastic breaks down and your fire is shooting through the side of the plastic running to ground of the valve cover and what have you then that whole plastic assembly is bad seems like the coil part is good but the plastic sure is not dialectically sound.
In this context "remanufactured" almost certainly means "brush off the dust and change the boot on the bottom if it is visibly cracked or otherwise damaged". Assuming there is some sort of rubber boot on the bottom. There is simply no way that they are opening these up and doing anything with the wire coil inside.
is this sold from "eBay" or "amazon" ? never heard of rebuild ignition coils before.. common issue with the ignition coils are usually torn boot and can be fixed by simply applying dielectric grease. The grease actually seals up the tear if it's small enough. I was tempted to buy new ignition coil on my Prius due to misfire before but I noticed that there are cracks in the boot, applied dielectric grease and misfire gone. I have to buy a new boot anyway instead of the whole ignition coil ($6 boot vs $50 COP) Same thing with my BMW, they were misfiring and it turned out it just needed dielectric grease where the boot meets the base of the ignition coil.
Yeah 200,000 plus miles I would like to replace mine I don't want to pay $800 dealer prices and it shouldn't have to for a COP coil not at all too many manufacturers to choose from too much competition It's not that kind of item.
If it is just the boot here is an example of the sort of product that the auto supply stores sell to fix this: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/import-direct-wires/ignition---tune-up/ignition-coil-boot/ecb4de869e48/import-direct-wires-coil-on-plug-boot/idw0/98199k/v/a/30214/automotive-car-2009-toyota-prius?pos=1 I'm sure you can get the same thing from Amazon. RockAuto sells a few options, NGK's version (no spring, not sure if the Prius uses that part) is: More Information for NGK 59018 Of course test the coil pack (don't recall offhand what the correct resistance is) before mucking around with the boots.
Yes, that’s what happened to one of mine, big miss, code, pulled it out and the case was split open! Well I’m thinking these “remanufactured ” coils are simply cleaned up used units.
Good thought, yes the dialectic grease is good, seals and waterproofs the connection. The replacement coil I bought, not Denso, had a much tighter boot fit than the Denso. I thought that was good and kept it on.
I've noticed the boot being a problem The boot being the rubber or silicone pliable stuff.? What I have noticed is the plastic which used to be in the old days bakelite nowadays it's some cheap PVC stuff you can burn with a Bic lighter I see marks on the plastic the hard plastic that look like voltage is blown through and is going right to the spark plug or valve cover metal so when you withdraw the COP not looking at the boot but looking at the gray plastic extension that's going down to the boot that I guess has metal in it and all of that that your spark plug boot and wire had in it this thing has built inside of the plastic. It looks like the plastic is lost it's electrical resistance and the electricity is just blown through it like when electricity goes through your hand and blows out your elbow when you're on a line.
Bulk electrical resistivity of Bakelite is 10^12 ohm-cm and PVC (I think the kind used as wire insulation) is 10^14 to 10^16 ohm-cm. The dielectric strength of both is about 20 kV/mm. If a coil is arcing through the case it is probably because there is a very thin spot or a pin hole in the case, rather than a change in the material. Kind of like how electrical line man's gloves work - they always check those for pinholes by blowing into them before doing work, because the 99.99% of the glove which is bulk rubber won't help at all if there is in the other .01% a path for the current to follow with no rubber in it. Using a material for a coil pack which melts at a low temperature would be nuts. The lighter test isn't valid though, as a butane flame can be up to 1970 C, which is more than hot enough to melt/burn all plastics. It is also much much hotter than the environment where the coil pack operates. That might be 200 F, or maybe somewhat more in a car which is overheating. Heck, aluminum melts at 660 C (pure, alloys will vary). Before anybody brings this up - the lighter cannot melt an engine block because that conducts the heat away which limits the temperature. If a tiny spec of pure aluminum was somehow suspended in the hottest part of the flame it should melt.
