2012 Prius refused to Start. Error Code P0335 – Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction

No, I just did a little too much LDS.

 

I recently had to endure limp mode with my very unreliable hv battery. I do have a replacement hv battery, but the two codes that are for a failed camshaft position sensor and a failed crankshaft position sensor are my current concern. I just today put in the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor should be in today's mail. I read about how some cars need a relearn procedure with a scanner. I have an autophix 7360 made for toyota, and also have an autel that is a ts408 made for tpms. Neither of these likely has the right relearn for either the camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. However, I cannot find anything on the internet that's directly about my 2011 prius and these two sensors and whether a relearn proceedure is necessary. Reading this thread makes me wonder if that is the reason several posters have had no response after replacing these sensors? I definitely have had all of the same symptoms leading up to my car finally failing to start and barely making it into a parking lot in limp mode. However, the sensor codes only showed up on my nexas interface after the failure.
So, my primary question is whether my 2011 prius will need to have a specialized scanner do the relearn proceedure? I will try to see if my autophix 7360 can do it, but I've already looked at listings for the scanners and my autophix is not one listed.
I suppose that there could just be an automatic learning process, and can't find any information on the ngksparkplugs.com site for whether the specific ntk sensor part needs this kind of relearn proceedure. Nothing specific to my prius is posted. I really would like to be able to search priuschat for this information, but have seen a search function. I only am able to locate specific threads thru links from Google.

 

Nothing about the crank or cam position sensor needs learning. The sensor either works or it doesn't.

 

I am having the same exact problem. Has anyone been able to figure it out? I looked through the whole thread and didn't see anyone come back with the problem resolved.

 

some hints on where to start looking at the P0335
youtu.be/6MRjJQie8fs
he covers the basics in 4 minutes.

 

I have watched many videos and done alot of research. However, I have not been able to reach a solution. I am having the exact same problem with the guy in this thread. The problem occured after replacing the head gasket, the car was driven for about 30-45 mins without any problems and then all of the sudden the the died in the middle of the highway.

I tried to figure it out myself, however I couldn't reach a solution. Ended up taking it to the local toyota dealership. It seemed like they didn't wanna bother themselves with it. And so after a few days they called and said they couldn't figure out the problem.

I thought oh, maybe I had screwed up the timing, so I opened back the engine and re did the timing and checked everything else. I have done many engines before and have never had this issue before. Any help would be appreciated!!

 

Yes, you are right, and now my engine runs while being very noisy, but a P0A80 code comes up because the old hybrid pack has gone completely bad since Dec 1,2023. After I put in both cam and crankshaft sensors, charged up the 12v off the car, and used my prolong system to get only 1 bar on my hybrid battery....then the engine runs for about a minute or two, is very noisy, and stops when the battery pack fails. I have to make sure the crankshaft is turning, check the pcm for faults, make sure there is not a wiring problem from the crankshaft sensor to the pcm module, and as far as I can tell from listening to the video from cars that DO NOT have the engine running at all....Mine likely does not have a broken transmission connection. The shop I have my car at is puzzled at the codes. However, I believe the solution is finding the cause of the consistent P0335 code (likely in wiring or in some part of the PCM.

 

Ok....mind you that the gen 3 has no serpentine belt, and my crankshaft pulley moves while my engine runs for a couple of minutes, but still have the P0335 code, so something is amiss with the wiring or the pcm/ecu module. The sensor is new and is correctly installed, so maybe once the pcm can read the sensor then the engine will run normally and may warm up and recharge my old NIMH battery enough for me to get the car back to my apartment where I can leave it parked until I can have my new LiP04 battery sent back to California for a version 2.5 update and a recharge before I can install it! Used motors are available that are low mileage, come with intake and exhaust, reliable, and warranted, so hopefully won't need to go there for another 100,000!!!!

 

Ok....mind you that the gen 3 has no serpentine belt, and my crankshaft pulley moves while my engine runs for a couple of minutes, but still have the P0335 code, so something is amiss with the wiring or the pcm/ecu module. The sensor is new and is correctly installed, so maybe once the pcm can read the sensor then the engine will run normally and may warm up and recharge my old NIMH battery enough for me to get the car back to my apartment where I can leave it parked until I can have my new LiP04 battery sent back to California for a version 2.5 update and a recharge before I can install it! Used motors are available that are low mileage, come with intake and exhaust, reliable, and warranted, so hopefully won't need to go there for another 100,000!!!!

 

Is the pcm module that communicates with the crankshaft sensor behind the ac in a position that requires the dash to be removed to get to it? From the technical threads about the ecu....there are a great number in the gen 3. I just can't find the exact location of the one that is the pcm that needs to work with the crankshaft sensor. I'm hoping it's an easy access and not the one mentioned in the other thread!!!! Also, anyone have the actual part diagram(and not the wiring diagram) for that pcm part. Furthermore, anyone know about the serviceability of that part? As in replacing components and not the whole thing....?

 

It's the ECM, and that's right there under the hood next to the inverter.

 

I found a link to an article that answers alot of questions many have had on this thread. All of the things like fuel pressure, mass air sensor clealiness, etc. that are listed by Toyota should be checked to pin down any P3190 and P0A80 codes that are associated with P0335 and other failure to run problems! See the link!

Toyota Prius P0A0F And P3190 No Throttle Response: SOLVED | Torque News

 

Hey ChapmanF,
As you may know from another thread, I have had Toyota check my car. They claimed that the biggest problem was the failed hybrid battery. However, they replaced my failing 12v which was a good thing because it's a 6 year agm that was only about $170. I got my LiP04 with version 2.5 installed back from CA and installed it. As in the previous post, I thought the noise was my engine running, but never was anything but the starter trying to get it to start.
As before, I ran it around my parking lot which used up the power in the new battery. I was able to use my prolong charger to bring it back to over 60%, and also had to recharge my 12v since I used too much time looking at diagnostics on my autophix.
I also replaced the fuel pump with a new delphi. My car still is not starting, so I investigated which relay controls the pump. As you know it's the 1B plug in the middle of the integrated relay cassette. I've ordered a replacement. I also need to somehow check the ECM next to the fusebox. I like the suggestion you posted to check the wiring for the crankshaft sensor. I put it in myself, but could try some continuity checks from where it links into the wiring to the connector.
I've also wondered if bypassing the pump controller might allow the engine to start? By that I mean to power it up at the connector on the top of the installed pump.
I have not researched how to test the ECM.
THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT!

 

I'm going to the local library to look up the Chilton repair manual diagnostics for the P0335 code! I like ChapmanF recommended tests for the wiring from crank sensor to ECM. I'll have to use my meter to look up resistances and compare them with information in the Chilton repair manual at the library's link!

 

Info:

 

Do you have access to a scope? Know how to use one?

Not a Toyota, but Mendel's link from above, shows what the signal should look like, but here's an example of using a scope and tracking down that signal.

 

No...I don't have access to a scope. I don't have a clue, but do know that the original crankshaft sensor had a metal flake on it when I removed it. Tell me if that in itself indicates any problem with the wheel that generates the signal in the sensor.

 

That just means that there was a little flake of steel floating around inside the oil pan. (the sensor has a magnet inside).

You can test sensor circuit resistance at the ECM connectors (ECM unplugged), but the factory procedure is to use an oscilloscope because it eliminates most of the guess work.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Thanks mr_guy_man. I would likely have to borrow an oscilloscope iff that's even possible. I'm unlikely to try getting Toyota to do that. The shop manager has an attitude that nobody can tell him (or even make a request) to do anything other than what he sees as what Toyota expects him to do.....job security I guess, but not from my precious resources! Maybe just using something to check at least for continuity from the ECM cable down to the crankshaft sensor wires would help me find any shorts!

 

Get a copy of the factory service manual and wiring diagrams.

Unplug the ECM and measure resistance across the two wires for the crank position sensor (don't damage the terminals - "backprobe" the wires) your reading should match the sensor specification. If the reading is out of spec then chase down the cause, bad wiring, sensor, connector, etc

A scope can let you "see" the signal. Sometimes there can be a problem with the trigger wheel that produces a signal, but it's not the correct pattern that the ECM expects.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.